retriever

only have 22" in the sizes listed

I have 1x 9.75x22 Dunlop

1x 11.00x22 firestone

1x 11.00x22 Dunlop

1x 10.00x22 Dunlop

and the following 34x6 which is aprox 7.50x 22

1x1ndia

4xfirestone

9x Dunlop

I have many 15" 17" and 18" tyres also All tyres are new old stock and affordable

I have lots of new old stock 22 " tyres I will see what I have tomorrow

make sure you let tyre down first . then make sure you have released the correct nuts, if you are unsure then if the tyre is flat release all nuts if it still will not come off then use a big hammer and hit from the inside turning wheel between hits it will come off eventually.

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Do you not mean Series 2A rather than Series 2 ? that simplifies things lots.

 

608327 is Petrol and Diesel block for S2A , a S2 Petrol and Diesel block is different (and different to each other IIRC) to the 2.1/4 Petrol and diesel block THREE MAIN BEARING) A late S3 block from approx. early 1980's is a different 5 main bearing block.

 

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608327 - there are supercessions , 596104 , 541891 , there will be different cast & foundry ID markings. The engine Serial No. will give a clue to age - you may be lucky to have a matching No. or near match.

 

You need to use the match marked main bearing caps c/with the block being used.

head casting no 279502

block casting no 276678

engine no 645100591

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Do you not mean Series 2A rather than Series 2 ? that simplifies things lots.

 

608327 is Petrol and Diesel block for S2A , a S2 Petrol and Diesel block is different (and different to each other IIRC) to the 2.1/4 Petrol and diesel block THREE MAIN BEARING) A late S3 block from approx. early 1980's is a different 5 main bearing block.

 

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608327 - there are supercessions , 596104 , 541891 , there will be different cast & foundry ID markings. The engine Serial No. will give a clue to age - you may be lucky to have a matching No. or near match.

 

You need to use the match marked main bearing caps c/with the block being used.

I did mean series 2 not 2a I think it came out of rover 80 car and put into series 2 as a replacement,

My son in law and daughter have a series 3 24v ffr with a cracked block. 2 years ago we ground out a groove in the waterway behind the starter and filled it with liquid metal and all was well until now it is leaking again. I have a early series 2 engine is the block interchangeable if I was to strip both engines and build one from the two. I know all ancillary equipment will have to be from the series 3. if is not possible then anyone need a series 2 engine and gearbox.

we have used one for years as a yard truck had to put a large weight as ballast on the load bed then it will tow any of the trucks here. Just overhauled brakes so I know what parts fit. good luck with it

ring peter at ampthill on 07599019133 he will advise and perhaps have them in stock

I advise joining matchless and ajs owners club they stock many parts well worth the subs

maybe camo pole brackets

looks like the rear canvas for Bedford mk

I think the switch is for a searchlight

Is the knife military

Whats the cleaning kit for

The weapons sleeve is just a bag but no holes for straps?

Any help identifying please

I have converted all my vehicles to electronic ignition. On the bedfords I bought a 6 cylinder triumph distributor off ebay already fitted with electronic ignition about £60 you just have to fit the dog off your old distributor. worked great for years. Starts and idles better and no adjusting, uses same coil just make sure the wires go on the coil correctly. try ebay no 170830460385

Normally lucas dist has cast ally body and delco pressed steel. When using timing light you can use no 1 or 6 ignition lead with the same result as they spark at 360deg of crank rotation to each other.

Try david crouch.

it says in the article 145 units, but may include a large spares package.

I have six of these and all my vehicle batteries are left on all winter, I think they are very good the only problem I have found is if the power goes off they do not reset like the dearer ones. recomended

you ring then they decide how much they can screw you for. So I do not ring. Possible lost sale.

The rear wiring loom should join the cab at a junction behind the radiator grille near the chassis on the passenger side . the screws on the terminal block normally come undone ok.

they could be for sale cheap

that's what I thought. thanks

I have 2 pairs of mittens made of grey leather with white cotton sleeves , a cotton tape joins the mittens long enough to go around the neck. anyone know what they are for please.[ATTACH=CONFIG]120572[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]120571[/ATTACH]

How about a price please

Normally the ones painted red are to hold the two halves of the wheel together, the other ones are to hold the wheel to hub.

So undo the unpainted ones and remove the wheel from the hub , a large hammer may be usefull here. Then when the wheel is off remove the valve core to make sure all the air is removed from the tube then before you remove the other nuts try to press the beads of the tyre inwards . its difficult if you remove the nuts first.