cooler07

More pictures!

Hi James The NOS seals seem to work, they were still in the sealed packages. In the pictures I pressed them in first using a steel plate then using and old seal because of the recessed position. As for the breathers I put a fitting on and purchased on eBay a box of small crank case filters. As my Saladin will not be wading anymore. The old breathers seem to take about 5 to 10 psi to open. With old seals the oil will pushes out before the breathers open. Also I need to give you ALL the credit for the tool manufacturing to disassemble the tracta housings. That was all you!!!!!! I took your idea, but mine doesn't look as good....!!!! When I refitted the screw cap, it screwed down to the same thread count minus a quarter turn. As per the manual you put a wooden handle inside the housing and twist it feeling the resistance. The seals feels better then the old ones so I will see. As for new ones I'm going to talk with my seal guys this week and see what they can do for new seals. I will be putting my bevel and other bits in today. You are going great are your Sal and I also wish my shop was bigger, you can never have a big enough shop!!!!!!!! James

Hi James sorry for delay I also didn`t see I had a message. As for the seals "spherical housings the big ones" I got a full set of 12 from Makano Surplus in the UK. They are NOS and I also heard the same thing about using new ones not using NOS but I think they should be ok. I put non pressure breathers on every wheel station and that keeps the pressure build up to zero. Now the oil doesn`t leak out. I think most of the leaks I had were from the cork seals that go around the house that sits in the bevel box. I putting three new rubber O-rings on each one. I should have some pictures on it in the next day or so. Better then cork. I have a supplier and have asked about making new spherical housings seals. So I should have some news on that soon. I have been following your work and it is very useful info!!!!!!!Excellent job! here`s a link to my Saladin #04CC45 https://www.facebook.com/groups/295108097280779/ Cheers James

First rate work sir. I have one of my stations off LF just waiting for seals.

Any change you have a picture? I had to remove my front left bevel box, but everything on it has to come off before you can remove it, speedo, parking brake, and output shaft housing.

Excellent read.!!! Any chance you could get a close up picture, pictures of the bevel box from the outside looking in at the housing? Thanks

Here Here to that! Been trying to think of a way to build it back up then machine it down. Will have to thing about.

Thank you for info! cheers

I see it now and want to apologias to anyone for that mistake. I got the flag information for someone who said they knew the correct way. It will be fixed.

??? I`m at a loss...! Please point the problem out!

Also so found this on you tube, it`s a Stalwart but it does give an idea.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCc0PwXMXlk

Excellent pictures! I`m watching this because I will soon be removing a front left wheel station because a bevel box is leaking inside my Saladin. Keep up the work!!!

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fixed

roger

Thanks Richard you are the man!!!!:-) I should have gotten the correct names for the parts in question. And you are correct Jeff`s is a front right and Glen`s left rear. I have found a rear carrier and from looking at pictures it looks like the rears are the same. I should have know that the front`s would have to be different because of steering. And as you say this carrier is un workable. Glen`s going to be crying tonight.

Also Richard the picture of the hub I posted is from Glen`s left rear, question as far as the part in the picture are they the same for all stations? Thanks James

I`m thinking when you say parts you mean dowels and bolts?

Hi Richard ! Been awhile. And yes one ferret is Jeff`s and the other`s is Glen`s former Saladin owner. They are both about the same in damage. The problem I`m seeing is the face of the hub where the sun gear has spun and chewed up the hub face.

Thanks for info, currently in contact with Tim Vibert , under stand about weight but can`t doing anything with old hubs because the sun gear really messed up the hub itself. So really need to replace the complete outer wheel station. Guess its the price we pay to play!!!!!!:laugh:

Hello all..! I`m looking for two wheel station or outer hub assemblies for 2 Ferret`s mk2/3. Have 2 friends that have broke there`s and we are trying to find some. Have been contacting all the normal places in the UK, just seeing if anyone here has any. I`m in the US Texas and partly own a Saladin #04CC45 "we think that`s right number" and just trying to help out some folks. Thanks for any info.

Hello all; I live in Texas and own a Saladin mk2 vehicle number 04CC45. I'm looking for the brake adjustment tool and also the manual used for removing and installing any parts or components on the vehicle. I have the parts manual and the user handbook, plus the description manual. Just looking for the shop manual. Any info on this would be great. Thanks to all!

Not sure if this is correct place to post? Sorry if it's wrong. Big radio and harness question on 1969 Saladin. According to the manual I have, this Saladin has a “B” type harness with Larkspur boxes, meaning J2 , Remote Box, Control unit D- Driver Box. Etc. 1: I know I can used an interconnect box that will interface a Clansman 353 to “B” type harness and use the Larkspur boxes I have but the problem is the headsets I have are clansman 7 pin connectors. Is there a mod connector for this? To change it to 6 pin for Larkspur boxes. 2: Or can I just get Clansman boxes for intercom etc. but connect them to the original “B” type harness that is in the Saladin. The reason I ask it that I would like to use the headsets that have the boom mic connected. Thanks for any help! James Note: I say Larkspur boxes because don't know what else there are called!

USSR Armored Vehicles booklet. It's a vehicle identification flip with alot of warsaw pact armor listed.