N.O.S.

Just an observation - you said it did not leak when you blew into it.

I can imagine all manner of diaphragm / housing leaks which might not show up at 6x6 lung pressure, but would at something approaching working pressure. Have you tried feeding it from a compressed air source?

What is the function of the valve - and does the valve accept full system pressure under normal conditions or just when brakes applied?

T

.....Despite the fact the program shows a Cold War Soviet battle - that we know nothing about........

To be fair, Neil - the first we'd have known about it (the real thing) anyway would have been an air-raid siren :-D :shocking:

I believe there was a suggestion the hard cab M6 was a post-war USAF conversion for the cold Eurpoean climate.

The M6 would have become non-standard after WW2 but maybe a few survived in service for a while?

Best check with your insurance provider if it is not specified in your policy documents - you might find they restrict number of passengers to 7 or 8 plus driver, but seat belts not required if not original fitment.

Mmmm, shiny. :-D

 

Nothing a pair of good ear muffs won't cure :cool2: :-D

They may well have been Austin 10 engines, but I would be surprised, as CC were producing a range of similar sized engines for smaller car makers and for many industrial applications, and surely they would have fitted their own engines to these pumps?

Try contacting Renosteel - their phone number is just a web search away.

Not sure where the pump is but I think you'll find the reservoir and valve is the square box right rear above tyhe inlet manifold.

It squirts fuel in to the manifold (looks like there is a glow plug in the manifold just behind and upstream of the cold start injector).

If on start up the engine smokes like crazy for a few minutes and then runs clean, the chances are it will be a leaking cold start valve / injector - which allows neat diesel to pool in the inlet manifold.

The priming pump should be plumbed into the fuel line somewhere before the engine's injector pump. I thought the cold start reservoir was filled by the engine lift pump - if so maybe this was a mod and the hand priming pump has been done away with?

Have you tried any "Start ya bastard"? Only needs a tiny squirt to start if the engine is good - it won't get addicted to the stuff unless you overuse it. I always give a quick squirt and maybe 4 seconds later (when back behind the wheel) crank the engine over, you can tell when the vapour reaches the cylinders and away she goes.

The cost of PLI is not just the cost to each member as a modest proportion of their membership fee because to quote from the Membership Benefits article in Windscreen "Insurance like this comes at a cost, one that the MVT are willing to bear the brunt of" i.e. subsidise the cost.

Surely the cost of such provision will have to come from the Trust's revenue stream - its main one being membership fees?

Even if it might initially be funded by any surplus funds, the cost would have to be found be either reducing expenditure or increasing fees.

A few points to consider:

1. Do all MV owners really understand exactly under what circumstances the use / attendance of their vehicle requires PLI which would not be covered by their own personal vehicle insurance policy? The cost-effective provision of such insurance by MVT to all its members is surely a great benefit and saves members any concern about whether they have adequate insurance for group events or individual attendance at any other event.

2. A member without a vehicle but travelling as a passenger in another member's vehicle would be assured of reliable insurance cover for personal injury should it be required but might not be covered by the owner's policy due to the circumstances of use.

3. The possible provision of something like 'Associate Membership' for these members without a vehicle, or some other variety of membership for those not wanting PLI would only save a (and I'm guessing here) modest proportion of their membership fee and would be quite costly to operate if only in administrative time, and would add (albeit marginally) to membership cost. The selective opting out of the scheme might also add to the cost of providing the cover to those who are happy to accept the benefits.

4. I suspect the vast majority of members stand to benefit from this scheme - even if they might not appreciate it!

.....which just goes to show that when Jimmy Young packed up it all went Pete Tong :dancinggirls:

Am I the only one who likes it (except for the tyres)? The cab bulkhead to bonnet joint is quite well executed.

Turns out it was a 'Joint Forces' operation…..

Unless the Explorer sneaked in just to pose for a pic?

Nice picture here of Teale's DT wrecker out on a job in 1980 - just love the pool of water / oil on the road under the front :-D

I had a 100B for a couple of weeks on a footbridge construction job at Aberlour in the Spey valley back in 81 or 82.

We borrowed it from a TA unit in Aberdeen.

I severely annoyed the locals by driving it in the river fetching rocks.

Can't think why they were getting upset.:-D

Can't be any worse than using a worm instead of a fly…….:-D

Clark transmission and axle new parts should still be readily available at very sensible prices compared to modern stuff (which is mostly priced in telephone numbers).

Although other suppliers are available, we used to get parts from these guys - a very helpful bunch:

http://www.ets-uk.co.uk/about/

Would you want to be the trailer handbrake drum operator? :wow:

Did you see this one too, Richard? A bit of camera shake, and a lot of chassis twist (one of the M Type's better qualities).

Brilliant!! :thumbsup:

Mans Truck!!!

Yes - always liked those older Scanias!

OK - of course Richard is correct! The hub is different to M Series.

This pic of yours shows two of the drain holes - reckon there'll be five, one on every other raised rib.

The oil leaks from the seal and is caught in the cone guard in the hub, the disc on the axle tube is just inside the cone when assembled. Why the oil has got on the shoes is due to the drain holes in the hub are blocked with crap or paint. A tell tale sign of a seal leaking normally is oil on the outside of the hub. It should be flung out by as the wheel turns.

I would recommend you try and borrow a Bedford hub tool when refitting the hubs as it is impossible to adjust the wheel bearings correctly with a hammer and punch. The tool fits most Bedford models so you should find someone with one I would think.

 

regards, Richard

Richard - it seems the M type rear hubs have only one drain hole? The fronts have 4 I think so oil cannot rise above the lip of retainer unless as you say a hole is blocked.

I was surprised at only one drain on the rear hub - when I did the rear brakes recently I turned the hub so drain hole was left at bottom over the weekend so I could be sure new hub seal was not leaking!

I think the hub spanner is still readily available from Bedford parts stockists.

Tony

P.S. external rear brake cyl leak will go through the internally mounted actuator straight onto shoes (**).

I know this because the first new cylinder I put on had a bad seal and contaminated the newly-cleaned linings (I'd tried cleaning them up first), I had another spare cylinder but then decided to get the shoes relined as they were soaked again with fresh oil.

** This relates to MJ rear cylinders - I assume RL rears are similar, being at 90 degrees to drum?

If not then maybe I'm wrong about oil being able to get onto shoes?

Good idea to take the drum in too. For what it's worth:

4 weeks back I did M Series rear brake - one side like new, one side shoes had oil contam, so had that side only relined. Drum was like new, new cylinder and hub seal sorted the leaks.

No better when tested, so off with hub again to find new linings only contacting on about 5% of area!

The modern thinking now is to get drums measured and then machine the relined shoes to right size - surprising how riveting distorts the linings (also blasting and painting shoes takes off rust and creates low spots).

So I took drum and linings in and they machined linings to suit drum. * I would add they couldn't do the linings on their machine as normal because unlike modern shoes the two linings are different thicknesses, so had to do them by hand held surfacer.

Better on test but still not what it was (shows up on handbrake - MJR h/b works through brake cylinders not input shaft), so hub off again to find linings are now working on about 30% of area. Took high spots off linings and reassembled. Getting better but will take a bit more bedding in to be spot on.

This is all a bit strange as 10 years back I did the same with the other side and brakes both well matched from the off.

Certainly new lining material is quite different to the old stuff - you may find you end up with uneven brakes.

I would recommend as a routine relining both sides in order to get a good matched brake.

Which is just what I've done with the fronts (another brake cylinder) - mind you the front drums are de-mountable which saves taking hub off each time :mad: Although they came off for bearing inspection and new hub seals.

Let us know how you get on!

What about the red fire pump trailers with Coventry Climax pumps running behind the Austin aux fire service trucks?

I'm sure they were 6 stud, and that I had obtained a couple to replace identical tyres and rims but with 3 holes for an old 3 stud Benford dumper steering axle.

These rims must have been pressed out with 3,4,5 and 6 holes for so many applications!

Also used on slave battery starter trailers by RAF, but they might have been 3 stud.

I wonder if someone in the UK will be stocking these?