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Jerryjeeprichard

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Posts posted by Jerryjeeprichard

  1. On 4/24/2024 at 5:44 PM, cordenj said:

    Having worked on "Low Orginal chassis" and this one (High), I found this higher chassis much easier for access to the engine. Perhaps after they decided it was never going in a glider again, the REME just did what you've done (in reverse) and removed the low chassis and fitted this one?

     

    I’m sure there would have been an abundance of these trailers after the war that were adapted for various applications. 
     

  2. Little more progress from the weekend. 
     

    So looking at the images of John C welder trailer restoration it seems there is an additional plate welded to the chassis to locate the front engine mount. 
    Based of the images below I have the same alignment issues. So I planned to replicate by fitting the  additional plate too.  Doing this jacks the engine up meaning the fan won’t run concentrically in the radiator.
    in the end I removed the old engine plate  and replaced with a slightly longer one. 
    Complete with little helper!  

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    • Like 5
  3. Help and advice required!! 
     

    Firstly. 
    Engine mounts are knackered. Anyone recognise what other pieces of equipment these would be used on to help me track a set down. 
     

    Secondary. 
     

    Now that I have transplanted the trailer back into the murex chassis, the exhaust system that was in the original trailer will no longer fit. 
    I have found another silencer that might be better suited. It’s a lot shorter and will fit width wise across the back of the trailer.
    Anyone any pictures on how the exhaust system should be fitted?  Before I start getting creative? 
     

     

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  4. Ha. 
     

    This trailer collection is boarding on being a problem!!! Apparently.. 

    For the price it sold for I had to buy it. Complete with its original data plate which my complete murex is missing. 
     

    Also the chassis currently under my first murex is 5KV generator type frame.
    To make into a WW2 murex frame it would take a substantial amount of work to adapt.
     

    My plans are to build one good WW2 spec trailer out of the two. 
     

    I’ve spent a good day today cutting and grinding off all the clagged on bits of steel. 

     

     

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    • Like 3
  5. 17 hours ago, Ron said:

    Well that's an easy project for someone to finish off. Is this your post war frame? Usually the front saddle mount would be different.

    It seems that the inspector only stamped the spare engines? Ron

    All the hard work has been done, should be straight forward enough for someone else to pick-up and get over the line. 
    Just not sure where to pitch the price. 

    Frame wise, 3267, not WD contract, but early, the bike had the correct “white” tank badge. Early hubs with ball bearings, correct rear sprocket, folding foot pegs, folding kick start, V prefix engine and WD tyres., 

    I bought the bike off original owners grandson who grandfather used as  an every day driver up until the late 80s, sat in the back of his garage till I purchased late last year. 
     

    I’ve cherry picked some of the best bits for my “keeper bikes” tank badge kick start and rear sprocket.. 

     

    The rest is there for someone to finish. 

    • Like 1
  6. 4 hours ago, Ron said:

    My Flea has itsrepeat frame number stamped with no plate. I've never noticed an inspctors stamp but will take another careful  look. Ron

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    Ron

    I have 6 WD engines (V prefix)

    4 have engines with the frame number stamped like yours.

    1 has two frame numbers one WD frame number stamped like the above. And one above the flywheel. Which is 46 dated frame number. 
     

    1 engine fitted with the data plate. (The engine in question) 

    Only the engine with the data plate has the factory acceptance stamp. 

  7. 9 hours ago, welbike said:

    Nice stuff Jan and Ron!  Jerry, the metal plates are etched, and very shallow, so be careful. Similar plates were fitted to the James ML's.

    The NOS engine was for sale at the War and Peace Show, many moons ago, sadly I had not enough money to buy it.

    Cheers,

    Lex

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    Lex

     

    If I remove the plate prior to vapour blasting the engine. This will give the best protection possible to the plate. 

    I think my best option is to try and clean this up by hand. However it’s heavily corroded. Not sure how it will turn out. 
     

    Interestingly the images you have on the engine in the case, the HT lead is a yellow and black cloth type, do we think this is wartime? 
     

  8. 2 hours ago, rewdco said:

    As Ron says: this is a spare engine. Easy to recognise: engine number without a duplicated frame number, M211 is the typical inspector's number for the spare engines (WD/C, WD/CO and WD/RE), and the ID plate.

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    I remember seeing an engine like this coming up for sale 15 years ago, and not buying it. Regretted ever since. 
     

    What a priceless piece of history. 

  9. I have a question on engines, 

    WD bike, fitted with v prefix numbered engine, but there is no frame number stamped in the casting, instead there is a little metal plate riveted to the engine. Quite rusty, there are some numbers stamped in, I need to remove the plate and clean up to make sense of them. 
    There is also another stamp, with a broad arrow? And some numbers/ letters, (see images) 

    Anyone with similar markings on engines.  
     

     

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