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scruffyHerrbert

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Posts posted by scruffyHerrbert

  1. hoping some of you can offer some advice on this style of trailer - couldn't find any other images so lifted this one from another thread (apologies if these have been discussed before - have looked for old threads but not found any discussions)

     

     

     

    guess my initial question is

    - tow vehicle - would my RB75 (air over hydraulic brakes, GTW 11,000kg) be suitable - could the spare port on the quad-valve be used to provide a feed to operate trailer brakes or were they designed to be towed by something bigger with full air system?

     

    also interested to know

    - weight - how much do they tend to weigh unladen? (plated around 5-5.5t gross?)

    - brakes - are there inherent problems given their age, standing etc? (parts availability? etc.)

    - body - steel frame with aluminium panelling or am I likely to find a rotten hardwood frame?

     

     

    thanks in advance for any info, comments or pointers, paul

    box trailer.JPG

  2. can't argue with that

    the cylinders I got had been wrapped in their waxed paper so not exposed to sunlight, moisture etc. - i'm assuming they are new old stock unless year of manufacture can be determined - the green plastic plugs in the unit below are embossed with 7/16UNF 33080, one is marked J(E)20 and the other J(E)28, the body cast with 3223-307C, the black rubber dust cap is embossed with Lockheed 3812-428 J(E)16

     

    DSC05985.jpg

  3. IIRC, RB44 and RB75 front axles share the same brake cylinders (although variations may exist depending on year of production)

     

    got some NOS to suit my Mk2 (front) axle from a helpful guy a couple of years back and have noticed he's continued to list them (£15each) on ebay recently

     

    you should be able to reach him at cliff.fletcher@yahoo.co.uk

     

    unfortuneately I only discovered them after Past Parts had de-seized and stainless re-lined my old ones (£50+VAT each) so hopefully you'll have better luck!

     

    i'll have a rummage tomorrow and pop the cast number and a photo up

  4. yeah, twas a bit breezy, heard a big (wood ripping) crack from outside with window shut and wind howling - quite glad to be on ground floor really since the building i'm in is 3/4 storeys and the trees on a bank 15ft away are taller

  5. I guess the trick is to look for the consumables when you don't need them as burning thru your neck with a dribble of weld and paying the going rate at the local welding shop (£25) hurts (when a complete euro gun assembly with hose can be had for more or less the same price)

     

    never tried 0.6 - had enough fun getting 0.8 to feed thru the Clarke!

  6. interesting to hear there is someone else still using an ancient Clarke 150! (have you ever had to replace the brass neck Zero? - due to non-standard fittings, relatively expensive! the newer models may have the commonly interchangeable plug-in 'euro' lead however)

     

    personally I don't think the (single) roller/feed system is that great in my old Clarke and now only use it for occasional light stainless work - replaced it with a secondhand Murex245 which was sourced thru ebay from a chap down in Cornwall for around £200 - it's a lovely machine - I would recommend buying a good used machine over the cheaper end of the new market but then I tend to say that about most things!

  7. very impressive recovery in first vid - looks like a really awkward spot - the boat gave the impression of a walk in the park whilst lifting the truck - good bit of teamwork with the guys on land

     

    never grow tired of observing professionals at work - going to enjoy wading thru earlier posts in this thread in time

     

    second vid sounded like a cheating death clank as the hitch hit the truck

    guessing next time the guy might think about connecting to something else or standing further away!

  8. thanks for your input zero, noting the QPV pressure setting listed as 90-94lbs on all ports and the WSM reference to the quad valve maintaining opening pressure on remaining systems in event of a failure, it does suggest the valve at least thinks it senses a leak somewhere and is 'inhibiting' pressure (although would expect tank2 to be registering around 95lbs as well, not noticeably less)

     

    I did hear what can best be described as a high-pitched buzzing noise (not dissimilar to that of a small electric motor/pump running) coming from inside the quad valve yesterday after switching off engine with system having charged at it's current peak of around 95lbs (tank1) - this stopped after a few minutes and did not reoccur

     

    could not detect any leaks of air in the system

     

    I noticed the manual refers to special test equipment being required to set up a quad valve so obtaining a repair kit is out

    have been quoted £185 exchange for a rebuilt unit so need to be sure that mine is at fault

     

    has anyone had one done for less?

    DSC05952.jpg

  9. just wondering if any forum users in the vicinity of Brighton have professional or private experience of (Clayton) air brake systems and are/would be able to offer mobile advice/testing?

     

    if not, can anyone recommend someone?

     

    also, can anyone recommend good test gear?

     

    I have no previous experience of air brakes and am learning as I go with a Dodge 50-series S46 to RB75 conversion, which has included the air-over-hydraulic braking system (sorry it's not strictly military vehicle related)

     

    The system does not currently appear to be building sufficient pressure (around 95lbs tank1 and 75lbs tank2) according to dash gauge.

    Fairly confident there are no external leaks.

    From what I have gleaned so far, there are several possibilities, including

    - dash gauge reading incorrectly

    - governor valve faulty (or incorrectly adjusted)

    - quad valve faulty

    (these are all believed to have been working perfectly on the vehicle from which they were removed 2 years ago)

    - compressor (water-cooled fitted to Perkins Phaser) faulty

    (bought from someone I know in good faith, since the rest of the components were part of a Mk1 (Perkins 4236) system and the air-cooled compressor in that system is not compatable with the Perkins Phaser)

     

    Have sourced a new replacement governor valve from Westwood Commercial Components but am enquiring about some help as back up as havn't found anyone I know with test gear or a wealth of experience yet

     

    Have heard the quad valves are problematic - if anyone happens to have one spare to try as a sub that would be good!

     

    Images from workshop manual attached for some more background info

     

     

    thanks in advance, paul

    DSC05950.jpg

    DSC05951.jpg

    DSC05927.jpg

  10. hello all, been struggling with a tin of Nitromors the last couple of evenings - only ever used the automotive version in the past (and with good results) but it doesn't seem to be available anymore?

     

    bought a fresh green tin of the regular stuff (mail order as local shops were ridiculously expensive) and really disappointed - the automotive version would blister the powder-coating on aluminium extrusions within minutes, sometimes within seconds of application (and you'd be wiping off the tiniest bits that flicked onto the back of your hand pretty quick too) - the regular version doesn't work nearly as well - i've not felt the need to wear gloves (say no more) - wasn't cheap either, £40 for 4litres (and the slogan on the tin going on about a new double-strength formula just adds insult to injury really - what a joke - what was the previous formula like?!)

     

    can anyone tell me what I need to mix with my useless weak regular gloop to make it work like the automotive version or where I can buy something that works like the automotive stuff for a similar price/quantity? the extrusions i'm stripping have grooves that makes sanding prior to stripping impractical and since the stripped extrusions will be hand-sanded and polished rather than re-coated, it's important the surface isn't scratched by using coarse stripping discs etc., hence the need for a good stripping formula

     

    cheers, paul

  11. cheers all

    yeah Chris, close to Elm Grove/Racecourse

     

    when the Dodge is finally roadworthy once more (been in yard for about 2years undergoing improvements), might find some time to crack on with some projects started but relegated to back burners, inc. an early 70's bowser? carrier and a Ruston 3cyl. 3-phase set - will deffo be hoping for some advice with the genny electrics :-)

    DSC00468.JPG

  12. hello folks,

    found my way here last night after googling for Explorer images and finding Croc's blog - some beautiful photos - looks like a lovely part of the island and truck is awesome, great to see the WIP shots with it chugging around in all weathers!

     

    currently based in Brighton but looking forward to moving somewhere with more space for a bigger workshop etc. asap

    been into Dodge 50's for a few years (none ex-military) - in the process of trying to get my AWD conversion back on the road at present ...

     

    have been interested in military vehicles and equipment for a while as appreciate anything versatile and built to last/take some useage!

    looking forward to learning more and meeting some of you (guess it's possible might have met one or two of you already)

    been into Capri's for many years and happiest when tinkering on something old and interesting - love fabricating stuff out of old junk/scrap

    also enjoy restoring old arcade machines when weather/light/time of day doesn't allow for outdoor pursuits

     

    paul

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