dgrev

What about using an oxy-acetylene torch with a welding tip to apply heat to the inner race whilst as the same time using the hydraulic puller?

I would try at just one location down the length of the inner race rather than heating the whole circumference.

I am working on the assumption that the exterior bearing is the culprit and that the interior bearing is not the problem?

Expect a grease oil/fire and be ready to deal with it.

How not to use a shifting spanner!

Note at 10:23 they instruct to put the J device on back to front.
It was obviously designed that the device goes to the inner side of
the crab arm, that way the pull would be vertical and not at an angle as they have done it.

Richard,

Having 3 different standards of thread is beyond crazy.

What were they thinking?

Regards

Doug

Hello all,

I have 2 to 3 sets of BG 414-S and 5 sets of Champion 63-S spark plugs NOS.

As far as I know, they are for Continental W-670 and Wright R-975 engines (Stuart, LVT, HST, Grant/Lee and Sherman)

What do they typically sell for?

I have been in this hobby since the late 1970s.

The subject of reproduction carrier track has come up countless times over the years.

Every time it is yeah, yeah, everyone wants some.

Right up to the moment that they are asked to pony up the deposit so that the proposer(s) knows how many owners are actually dinkum and will put their hands in their wallets so that he can calculate a price based on efficiency of scale of production.

Every time the whole arrangement collapses due to lack of commitment of the buyers.

I can only conclude that there either most carriers are hardly ever driven or that they are all running around on worn out track.

Given that the track had a usable life of 500 miles and that I have yet to hear of anyone discovering a cache of NOS track for either British or Aussie/New Zealand carriers sooner or later a batch will have to be produced. But given the "track" record  of willing buyers, it won't be me bank rolling the event.

US Halftrack owners seem to be a very different breed and have organised, produced and taken delivery of new made track. Given the difference in technology, theirs was the more difficult project. So it can be done, it just takes motivated buyers.

There is a bloke in Adelaide, Australia making nice reproduction track winches. I saw pics of them on the Facebook carrier site.

Those bearings are impressive.

Doubtless a very special order in these times if they can be sourced at all.

Stunning how good a condition they are in.

Regards

Doug (in Oz)

3 hours ago, IAN_B said:

We certainly face that dilemma and have been canvassing suggestions. Some examples of these trucks have the entire wheels, spokes and all, painted "International red", which we are using for the chassis and accessories. This would be a sacrilege in my opinion, so a natural finish of some kind is required. I have long used boiled linseed oil, mineral turpentine and Terebine (40+40+20%) (which I dub 'linturbine') as a treatment on old cast iron on stationary engines, but it had not occurred to me that it might also be suitable for timber. I will do a trial.

We expect the wheels to be complete in a week or so, and I will post more photos then.

Ian

Ian,

That is a very high percentage of Terebine. Think of it more like you would a catalyst. Just some, to start a reaction happening.

At 20% I would expect drying to be very quick, but I would also expect to see detrimental effects such as cracking/crocodile skin and even flaking off?

Regards

Doug

2 hours ago, Old Bill said:

Hello Steve.

That is because he only gave you half the story.

Enamel paints are effectively 3 components, Linseed oil, tinter and filler. On that basis you have a paint that will take forever to dry. The addition of a quite small quantity of "Terebine" makes all the difference and results in the 24 hours to touch dry, 1 week to effectively dry behaviour.

Likewise this applies to straight Linseed Oil for wood treatment - usually "Boiled Linseed Oil".

If you don't add Terebine, it will take forever to dry. It is horses for courses. If you want to preserve timber long term and do not need to use it then the straight Linseed oil is ok as long as you aren't concerned about dust adhesion. Lets say timbers in a roof structure where you want long lasting protection and are not concerned about the sticky residue.

However, for all other applications, whether something that is handled (eg. a shovel handle) or in use in whatever way then you want the Linseed Oil to seal/harden once it soaks in, that is when you use Linseed Oil with Terebine.

In the paint industry Terebine was always referred to as "driers".

When using Terebine, less is better and it should be treated with respect as it is a nasty chemical, don't breath fumes and don't get it on your skin - gloves needed.  Follow the instructions as the amount needed is surprisingly little.

Being that Terebine is a concocted substance, its formula may have changed over time. What I have written above is the traditional view. Below is a modern MSDS for your reference.

<http://www.sceneys.com.au/media/pdfs/msds/Terebine.pdf> 

2 hours ago, Old Bill said:

 

They are lovely! How will you treat them? When we had wheels made for the Autocar many years ago, the wheelwright recommended painting them with a few coats of linseed oil diluted with white spirit. Took forever to dry properly but they seem to be OK>

 

Steve 

Ian

Lovely work. Pleasure to see someone keeping the craft skills alive.

Regards

Doug

David

I did not know there were any in Oz.

Diesel or petrol?

Regards

Doug

2 hours ago, Great War truck said:

I suggest you throw it in a bucket of diesel and come back in a month or 2. At the least it will make disassembly much easier.

 

Another chain that we have was so encrusted with guck that we dont think that the molasses would have had any effect upon it so this one was sandblasted. It needs to come apart now as a lot of the links are stuck.

 

 

 

I was just sent a screen grab of the new "fine"of GBP250 for leaving rubbish behind on your site. 

Paint me cynical, but how do they know it is "your" rubbish and not that of your worst enemy who has waited till you leave then tossed all their rubbish in your spot?

Since when does a private company have the legal backing to "fine" anyone at their pleasure?

I am still leaning towards a "British Obscure" thread form.

On the US WW2 tanks with radial engines, the rubberless flexible piping is said to use a

thread form called (I think for lack of any known name) "US Wartime thread" - quite coarse and matching

nothing else.

It may just be that what you have is a WW1 equivalent or an in-house thread form such as our Aussie electrical.

Regards

Doug

Gordon

Thanks.

Regards

Doug

I am so glad that all but one of my vehicles uses UNF threads (British and American vehicles!), the other one uses metric.

British Obscure threads sound like a nightmare.

On that note, when I did my trade as an electrician they told us at tech that the screws that are used on Australian power points and fittings are unique. Apparently when the Oz electrical industry was being born, there was difficulty in obtaining the required machinery and tooling. Somebody found out that a Scottish factory (nobody seems to know what they made) had gone bust and their equipment was up for sale. It was one of those places that had their own proprietary thread form.

We still use it - not that you can buy taps or dies to suit.

BA is not even close.

Regards

Doug

Ah, so, was logical after all.

I can just picture the corporate mind set "this will capture them, they won't be able to them or find anything else that will fit and have to come back to us for parts".

Andy

What ever inspired them to do that?

The desire to confuse everyone?

Regards

Doug

Regarding the molasses rust removal, a word of warning. Spring steel and high tensile bolts turn to a brittle honeycomb consistency in my experience.

How that double spring you have, survived is a mystery to me.

Sir Lance!

Thanks for that. I don't currently need one but will keep it in mind.

Regards

Doug

I can't get past the mahoosive puller, never seen one before. Given that other than your example they fall into the class of

"unobtainium", how has everyone else managed to do this job?

Steve

Peerless - no deadlines please.

Enjoy its restoration and it will be done when it is done.

Regards

Doug

Must have been a right sod to shunt into that location whilst having to lay flat on loco so as to fit under truck.......

The real problem is going to be getting all the entrapped oil out of the metal. Otherwise the silicon is not going to take. Nor will any other sealant/adhesive etc.