exoduschris

Thanks for the responses. I've now finally managed to track it down...stamped in the flange on the right hand side of the block just forward of the fuel sedimenter (under two layers of paint!). Chris.

Anyone know where the engine number for the MJ can be found. I've peered at the block as best as the lack of decent access allows but havn't managed to spot it yet. Chris

Thanks for all the replies. Running without the front prop certainly makes for a smoother ride in the cab. Regarding the transfer case front output flange mine already shows significant wear/play (before running without front prop). The prop UJ and splines are fine and the pinion nut is tight - the play is at the flange only and is presumably due to wear at the flange bush. Does anybody know if the flange bush can be replaced on its own or is the solution a replacement flange with bush? Chris

I've heard people recommend removing the front prop shaft on Bedford M types for normal road use to save MPG but others say it leads to problems in the transfer case. Anybody any experience/knowledge of this? Thanks all, Chris

Hi Paul. Did you get this sorted yet? I've just today managed to get a (class 4) MOT for my MJ after three test failures for front brake imbalance. In the end I had to replace the hydraulic flexi hoses (although I know there's only one on the back and that won't be causing your problem), both slave cylinders, new linings and a complete strip down and re-grease of pivot points, link-arms etc. For the class 4, brake imbalance only seems to be a fail point on the front (steered) axle. I guess you're getting an HGV MOT? Chris

Thanks for all advice. Rick W - was the product you were suggesting "POR-15 Metal Ready" from Frost.co.uk ? LoggyDriver - I did wonder at first if it was the pick-up pipe come adrift since the engine died so quickly. I'll check the security of mine when I get the tank off. Thanks all, Chris

Any ideas for how to clean out and then rust-proof my MJ's diesel tank? Driving today, going up a slight hill, the engine died. Turned out the filter (and the sedimenter) were blocked with rust. A new filter and a clean up of the sedimenter got the engine fired up and running ok. The truck's been stood a while so I'm guessing the diesel tank is rusted inside, and that the bottom of it will be full of the same rust/sludge that I cleaned out of the sedimenter. I guess that draining the tank will get rid of some but not all of the sludge. Any tips for the easiest way to clean it out completely? Is there a rust proofer etc that will help stop the problem in future? Thanks, Chris