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Max Reheat

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Everything posted by Max Reheat

  1. To be honest Nick, whilst that's an ideal, I'm up against it with the engine rebuild, transfer case seal/handbrake repair, wonky light switch and a dozen other jobs even to make the ferry :nut:
  2. Thanks Tony, I'll look out for that one! Indeed John, are they even taught/examined any more?
  3. Still hoping to have the Jeep built up in time for our first trip with it to Normandy. Please could anyone advise if L&R turning hand signals are the same in France as the UK (for LHD vehicle!). Thanks, Dave
  4. Thanks Pete, will be sure to check that. Dave
  5. Well, finally got my bracket from Jeffrey's and as I'd suspected I had a problem with the make up length, the 1/2" dia. shoulder protruded beyond the washer, bush, bracket assembly preventing it pulling up tight against the genny. To solve this, I popped the bolt in the lathe and put a new shoulder on the shank, 9.5mm dia. and 23.5mm from the underside of the bolt head. This allowed the 1/2" shoulder to butt up against the genny lug with a little bit of compression in the bush, the newly turned bit sitting snugly in the lug rather than it slopping about on the thread. The same was true on the front plate mounting: and the same fix did the trick: Have to put it down to a dodgy pair of bolts I guess :undecided: If anyone's interested, large washers are stainless M12 penny washers from Screwfix. That's one job down, a million to go... Finally got the engine block back from the machine shop yesterday, Normandy currently seems a long way away... :-)
  6. You are right Pete, the rubbers are split, sold on the basis of easier to fit :rotfl:. Am waiting patiently for my bracket but it looks like it'll be after Easter now :-(. Thanks, Dave
  7. Getting there slowly! Just the lower bracket to come from Jeffrey's tomorrow hopefully and then I can try it all out. Still a little confused about the bottom mounts though :embarrassed:. Looking at the G503 photos, it looks like the 1/2" dia. shoulder on the bolts should enter into the lugs on the genny, but my genny only has 3/8" dia. holes so they don't go in, see below: Am I missing something or do I need to drill my lugs out to 1/2"? Also the top lug bolt where the slot in the T-arm engages, is that just a 'normal' bolt, i.e. tightens up onto the T-arm when the belt tension has been set or is it another shoulder bolt that I don't yet have? :undecided: Cheers, Dave
  8. Thanks chaps for all your advices (including jerry cans too). I think the sensible money says to not take them. Have got an embryonic plan B as my lad has an opaque plastic rifle cover as used by GIs on D-Day so with a loosely fashioned bit of wood inside he'll be (kind off!) happy. May even be able to fit a spare pair if grips to a handle shaped bit of wood to fashion a holstered M1911 too! Cheers, Dave
  9. Thanks Pete. I have now come across this, which is perhaps what you meant: http://www.1942mb.com/c-14-G503_WWII_Jeep_6v_Generator_and_Arm_installation.aspx http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=124121 My block mounted bracket looks something like the one in the articles (don't have it to hand right now) but the second article suggests there are two different lengths, going to have to wait till my block comes back from the m/c shop to check exactly which one I have. My top brace arm, however, is nothing like the spring loaded, adjustable length, T bar one shown. Mine is just a simple slotted arm, much like a modern engine might have. Have ordered some bushes and bolts now. I see a top brace kit is available on ebay from the US, will have to check if any UK suppliers have them. Cheers, Dave
  10. Much obliged Pete, I'll check that out.
  11. Am planning a trip to Normandy this year for D-Day week (1st to 8th June), hopefully in the Jeep (engine rebuild permitting :undecided:). We will be travelling independently i.e. not with an organised group and won't be based at a fixed camp/event. My lad (14) is into US re-enacting (29th Infantry, D-Day) and has persuaded me to dress as (portly :blush:) Ox & Bucks gliderborne. Questions are: a) can we a take his replica Garand (plus bayonet) & M911 and my de-ac Enfield No. 4 (plus bayonet) on the ferry OK, Brittany Ferries didn't rule it out when I emailed them, they just said contact them after booking. b) will we be able to wander around with these reasonably freely without bother from the police given it's D-Day week, obviously a bit dodgy any other time! Obviously I would have the de-ac cert with me. Excuse my naivety in these matters, it's all new to me. I would be grateful for any advice, especially from anyone who's been there and done that! Cheers, Dave :-)
  12. I am in the process of re-building my Jeep engine and until now the 6V genny has been mounted using a rather inelegant combo of 10mm threaded bar, a multitude of nuts and washers and the dog eared remains of the rubber bushings and cup washers. I'd like to fit the proper arrangement but am not sure how it should be. I can see that the rubber bushings are available on ebay and shoulder bolts too. Are the bolts the same for each mount? Also, I am missing one or two cup washers, are these available anywhere? Would be very grateful if anyone could kindly link me to (or post :-)!) a decent photo showing how it should be please? Cheers, Dave :-)
  13. Hi, Dave here from Keynsham, Bristol. Consultant engineer with a professional interest in jet engines hence username. Been a while since I last logged in so having to do a 'first' post again to get back in it seems :embarrassed:! Glad to be back though :-)! [Edit: may actually have just been me being a spanner and forgetting how to navigate the forum, duh!] Jeep owner for 2 1/2 years - GPW chassis/Hotchkiss tub/Not sure about engine - was told it was a Hotchkiss block by seller but has a lot of WOF markings, including block, has fibre cam sprocket too (CJ series perhaps?) Sadly she's been off the road for best part of a year with a lifted valve seat and no time to get round to it :cry: Finally lifted it and stripping it over the weekend and now its in the shop for a new seat, guides, a couple of valves and a starter ring gear - showed obvious signs of prior 'tinkering' with offending seat... Also had an exhaust valve in place of an inlet valve on pot 3, would this be an issue? (am replacing it any way), and no.2 con-rod was wearing no.4's brg cap and vice-versa :rolleyes: Hoping to cure the dreadful starting of old too... Few other areas of issue but I'll post in the 'proper' areas for those. Meant to be taking my lad to Normandy for D-Day week in her so had better get my finger out...:eek:
  14. Thanks peeps for your comments and suggestions. Someone local to me suggested Bristol Autocare in St. George, does anyone have any knowledge of these?
  15. Hi, my first 'proper' post! My Jeep has been running rough as rats and was down on compression on No. 3 cylinder. Finally got the head off today after several months intending to (over due DIY commitments :rolleyes:) to reveal a valve seat insert (No. 3 exhaust) that has worked out and has been rattling loose - see photo. In the last hour I have come to terms with the fact that it's a full strip to a bare block for new seat pockets to be machined and new inserts pressed in :shocked:. I was wondering whether I should just go the whole hog and get new valves and guides while its apart - I haven't had the valves out yet to check them - any views? Whilst I can strip the block myself, can anyone recommend anywhere local to the Bristol area for this reseating job? I have spoken to Hurley in Bath, and whilst they could do it they were reluctant to give any idea on cost before seeing the block and weren't familiar with Jeeps. Engine Services Ltd in the Midlands were clued up regarding Jeeps and this job in particular, and quoted £275+VAT for all 8 new seats, new guides and a block skim which sounds good to me but it's a bit of a trek. Any advice would be gratefully received. Cheers.
  16. Greetings from sunny Bristol (Keynsham) Name is Dave and I have a Jeep in Mickey Mouse colours - Hotchkiss body on a '44 GPW chassis I believe. Had her for a couple of years but she's a bit unwell at the mo but I'll deal with that in another post. Originally from Wigan, I'm a consultant mechanical engineer by trade, mainly turbine engines. My lad is into US infantry reenactment and is pushing for a repaint in US colours, must resist! Glad to be on board at last
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