Catch 22 LBDR

OK so I decided to tackle one of the many small jobs that have annoyed me since i finished my restoration. On the commanders periscope there is meant to be a black ring visible when you look through it for firing the MG from under armour. No mater how much of what direction I turned the wheel on the sight the aperture would not appear. So I took it apart and had a look. The 4th picture is the focus mechanism, and on the left is a clear peace of glass/plastic. I think this is where the ring should be. There is none on my one. Can anyone confirm that this is where the ring should be, and does anyone have an Idea how to draw one on? (if I was to draw it on what size should it be?) Or is this part available separate?

There is a volunteer at the RE museum who has bean kind enough to do some digging for me, I have sent him an email Robin. Thanks

Thanks Robin. I think it is a harsh reminder that not all soldiers die in combat but still deserve to be remembered. The vehicle will be dedicated earthier way but I would like to know for sure if it was the one. The info will also change the wording on the brass plaque.

The news paper is a good Idea, I will get on that straight away.

So far I have tried the Royal Engineers museum,the RMP's museum, Soldier magazine and the Sapper journal. But nothing yet. The Accident report must be filed somewhere.

Thank you Paulbrook but I have all the details of the driver, and lots of personal accounts of the accident from his friends. He is on the roll of honour at the Memorial Gardens.

The information I need is more to do with the vehicle involved.

I am the owner of an ex Royal Engineers Daimler Ferret, 00DD24. While searching for in-service pictures of the vehicle I learned that it may have bean involved in an RTA in Germany on the 6th Nov 1991 that killed the driver. I say may have because there were 2 Ferret's in the Squadron at the time and no one can tell me for sure witch Ferret it was.

When I learned this information I decided to dedicate the Ferret to the driver. However to do this right I would like to find out for sure if it was my Ferret involved in the crash.

The bet bit of info I can think of to do this would be the accident report done at the time by the RMP's. But I have know Idea where to look for this information. Another thing that might help would be an ORBAT for 12 squadron 25 engineer Regt RE for 1991, as this would list the Reg of the other Ferret.

Any help with this bit of research would be most welcome. Ross

The fruits of my labour.

A friend has just made me up some rubber bushes.

I have bean working on the front windscreen for the last few weeks and I have to say it is the hardest part to fabricate so far. The original windscreen was in very poor condition and in several parts. It was very hard to get any accurate dimensions from it. I had to use parts like the brass glass surrounds and location of hinges ets to try and make it up. It's almost there and it is starting to look like the iconic shape of a Morris C8. Pictures of the finished windscreen to follow but hear are some pictures of what I had to work with.

I got some great responses on Facebook for my foot well dimensions so I thought I would post them up for anyone else who might need them. The foot well is made up of two parts.

I have used a AUSTIN CHAMP as every day transport and so did my wife they can have problems with the back axle but if it

is in good condition when you get it and change the oil regularly it should be ok they are generally reliable and comfortable

to drive wind screen wipers take a bit to get use to slow when you accelerate speed up when you slow down

Can anyone say what the issue is. Is it that the oil doesn’t lubricate the gears properly?

Any one ever used a Champ as a regular run around. I was thinking of getting one but have bean told about back axle problems.

It looks like it might be Jules, is your one off a MK2 ? I only ask as I was expecting there to be a flap where your one has a V cut out. Would you be able to do a drawing with measurements for me please?

Thanks for all the support guys, it's bean a long journey. Kev I would love to drive it to the war and peace show some time:nut:. It does seam that MK3 betel back quads are quite rare, I think because they were easier to drive than the MK2 that they had a hard after Sevres life. My one was a proper basket case and not for the faint hearted.

Does anyone have dimensions of the drivers foot well please, the floor plate that the clutch and brake peddles come up through? I think there is a hinged cover for filling the brake master cylinder on it.

I am working on the windscreen frame while I wait for the engine to be done. It probably won't be ready until mid Jan. The frame work is trickier than it looks so I hope it works out ok. The sump has bean repaired too.

I have remove the sump and with drawn the pistons and oil pump. All are in remarkably good condition. I have sent the block off to have it skimmed and the valves re-seated.

The finished brake pipes

Hear are the pictures I promised, note the reconditioned pads to go inside the ammo bins.

Hi Ivor, I have reused the old clevis pin but there is not enough length in the pin to allow anything to fit on it with the split pin. I thought of making something out of a penny washer by drilling a second hole in it for the spring but it doesn't fit. Is it possible it goes on somewhere else?

Finished fitting/replacing all the brake pipes, and got a bung to fit the back of the master cylinder. The front left rubber hose looks a little short, not sure if I should replace it with a longer one yet. All I need to do now is fill it up, bleed it and fit the return spring.

Question: Does anyone know where?how to fit the return spring, the picture/drawing that I have makes it look like the spring goes straight into the cleaves pin in place of the split pin. doesn’t seam right. any ideas?

Sorry no pictures today. I have finished fitting and painting the left side floor and I started on the right side too. I also got a box of shiny bits in the post that included new rubber brake pipes and joints, so I fitted all four pipes to the vehicle. I still need ti remake the copper brake pipes but it's getting there.

I also started to strip the engine down. Took the head off and spent hours removing one of the spark plugs that was very badly rusted. The cylinders look and feel good. The box of bits included new rings and 4 new valves ans valve springs.

Pictures to follow :-D

Started to fit the floor over the left ammo box under the door today.

Things are starting to move again for the Quad.. Have some channels being folded for the rest of the body framework, picking them up tomorrow.

The engine came back sandblasted but has two small holes to be patched in the sump. I have bean slowly gathering up parts to rebuild it. I have taken the head off and inspected the cylinders. A good Polish with a hone should see them right again. Will fit new rings and valve springs. Some of the valves look a bit ropey so I will probably replace them too. The starter has bean rebuilt and the dynamo was tested and is working fine. I also picked up a speedo gauge but am still on the look out for other guages.

I have some brake pipes being made up too.

The plan this winter is to have the Quad stopping, starting and running and to finish off the framework by the start of next years show season. First outing will be in May so about 7 months to get the work done.

Not interested in the limber as well?

 

There is a meeting tonight, I'll make some enquiries - just remember it's in Adelaide, South Australia so shipping will not be cheap.

 

Cheers,

Terry

Hi Terry, I have a shipping plan sorted but it will depend on how much the Chassis will cost if it is worth doing. Hopefully we can work something out as it will save me a lot of fabrication.

The other limber is the wrong type for me. Sorry

Hi Terry

The painted chassis looks like the right one for me, can you pm me with some idea as to how much they want for it? Thanks Ross

I broke a lot of studs off the hull of my Ferret and this is what I done;

Grind off the old stud, grind a point onto your new stud and weld it using a standard arc welder. You will need a very high quality rod, the rule of thumb is to use a better rod than the steel you are welding,( you will notice that when the hull is blasted that the welds come up shinny) also try and angle the rod to direct the heat into the armour steel to prevent melting the stud away and to get good penetration. Then clean up the weld with a grinder. I like to leave a good shoulder on the weld for extra strength so I drilled the holes on the item being fitted and used washers if needed.

I hope this helps

Ross