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Catch 22 LBDR

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Posts posted by Catch 22 LBDR

  1. She's getting there, have almost finished the right side, just have to weld on the hinges and the bottom lip under the seal. once that's done its back over to the left side to re do it again, you wouldnt be leave the amount of welding rods I have gone through. Pics to follow.

     

    I wouldn't bother replacing the tank if its in good condition Shaun.

    Thanks for the support

     

    Ross

  2. She's starting to look good now Ross.

     

    So when is the test swim date! :D

     

    Cheers

    Shaun

     

    Not for a while yet mate, will start on the right side next week, and i will be redoing the left side too, i dont like how it turned out, but learned some valuable lessons from it. Will make up the new side in a totally different way, watch out for the pics. Once i have the load bay squared away there are a few bits around the cab windows that need attention. I hope to have all the welding done by x-mass, then i can start working on the mechanical end of it. With a bit of luck i should have a nice driving but prob not finished Stolly by summer time. Then i have to source some swim gear. Lots of work ahead of me Shaun, lol.

     

    How are you getting on with yours mate?

  3. Hi,

    as promised, pictures of the floor in mine. as you can see she is still solid, just a bit pitted in places. these are from the worst side. :blush:

     

    i stripped it, cleaned it, de-rusted it (rust converter for the small dimples i missed) then primed it with anti rust and gave it a top coat.

     

    it will need doing eventually, as i want it to be perfect, but as she is kept under cover there is no major rush, it will be a winter job, probably next year. :nut:

     

    cheers

    shaun

     

    Looks the business Shaun, wish mine was that clean when i started.:(

  4. Do you have a part number for the seal?

    Perhaps I have some in my stock.

     

    Rolf

     

    No, i have no part number, i have saved one of the old seals but its not good enough to reuse, there are no markings left on it.

    Maybe some one has an old parts list for this vehicle??

  5. I'd go for MIG on sheet metalwork, and an Argon/CO2 mix, such as Argoshield for the gas.

     

    My boys have got a pair of Series III Landys, and when the youngest started on the chassis work on his 88", I bit the bullet and got an Oerlikon 250A semi-pro welder, secondhand, and it has been magic.

     

    We get the full-sized gas cylinder from one of our metalwork suppliers, and it has lasted over a year, they are on the 109" chassis right now.

     

    We do have a 140A arc welder, but I'd not go back to stick having seen what a decent MIG will do.

     

    Peter

     

    I wish i had the price of one, but will have to use what i have, (it an old but good oil cooled arc welder), and i know it can be done, practice makes perfect:cool2:

  6. Cheers Ross,

     

    Your doing a fine job matey, keep it going, will be good to see her swimming again. :wow:

     

    I actually have 2 rolls of stainless mig wire laying about, (got them from the garage I worked at when it closed down) I only ever used stick at college, I've always used mig/tig. But I must admit, I never knew stainless rusts! :blush: "everyday is a schoolday"

     

    I rubbed down my floors, de-rusted them, then painted them with primer that they use on oil rigs, then a good top coat, so hopefully it won't need doing for a long while yet. Will sort out some pictures for you.

     

    Cheers

    Shaun

     

    It will only rust if its poor quality stainless, of course it doesent rust near as bad. I bought a stainless bumper for my landrover and the ends started to rust where it had bean welded.

     

    looking forward to seeing the pics mate.

  7. Dont be modest Nigel, ur saving another green machine and thats always good work!!. I am trying to save one also, a Stolly, check out (Alvis Stalwart 18 ET 29 restoration project) on this site.

     

    Let us know how you get on with the welding, also what are you going to to about the rivet's?

     

    Thanks Ross

  8. If you can measure the seal accurately you might be able to find something online from a seal supplier. Seals seem to be catalogued by their outside diameter, their width and the diameter of the shaft that they seal onto. The first two of these are easy but the third measurement is awkward because the flexible lip of the seal goes onto the spherical housing. It should really be a special design of seal lip too, to seal onto the sphere rather than onto a plain shaft.

     

    I'm sure somebody might be able to help because most Morris seals are standard dimensions, although they are imperial rather than metric.

     

    Our C9/B didn't need swivel seals, I'm relieved to say, but I got several other seals online. Good luck.

     

    Yes, the other seals are standard but not the swivel balls, the seals that were on it werent good enough to get measurements off. I can get them made but at £40 a pop i want to be sure there right.

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