David Herbert

Frans,

Are you asking for the track tensioner 'snail' cam that tightens the track or the track 'jack' that pulls the ends together when you are fitting a track. This was actually a slightly modified car jack of the period but you can do the job with a ratchet strap used for holding the load on a truck.

David

Well done ! Time to sit and admire it with a beer.

David

I got very cross with RGM when I tried to buy something from them but we must remember that if these old traditional scrap yards had been more business like they would have cut these vehicles up fifty years ago. They own them and have no obligation to do anything with them. Many of these type of yards see these rotted remains as having been paid for so long ago as to be of no cost so they can just sit there and wait for some idiot with very deep pockets and no idea of reality. It is just very sad to see intact vehicles rotting away.

David

I agree with Mikes but would suggest just pouring thinned primer through, catching what comes out from the other end, turn the pipe, repeat until full coverage, drain properly and leave in the sun to dry while you do the next one. I have dipped hard to spray parts in thinned paint and with a bit of thought about how you drain the excess paint the results can be excellent.

David

Good advise.

I made a flat topped cup out of a bit of scrap brass about an inch in diameter and 3/4 inch long with a hole a bit bigger than the electrode drilled into the back 2/3 of the way through and a piece of copper soldered onto the working face. The copper will totally prevent the weld sticking and does not deteriorate at all other than needing cleaning occasionally. I probably do more with this than without.

It is surprising how many different shape and length electrodes become necessary too but they are quite expensive for what they are.

Keep up the good work,

David

I would say that those brushes have plenty of life in them.

David

Well done, they are very nice trucks to drive. I do hope that you enjoy woodwork !

David

Post deleted because it was rubbish - Sorry !

No Bob,many hours spent trying to find usable parts in shot up Centaurs plus you might remember that the dead Centaur that you had in your yard was previously mine !

David

Steering boxes will not be damaged by towing as long as the brakes are fully off. Similarly do not steer by gently pulling a lever for any amount of time because the oil gets squished out from between the bands and the drum but the brake is still slipping and heat builds up quickly. Instead steer in a number of firm applications. Not so elegant but much better for the steering box. As said above the issue is purely that the auto box will not take long distance tows in neutral with the engine not running. There is no question that shunting in and out of the barn won't do any harm but anything over 1/2 mile is risky.

David

I know that the two speed generators do give trouble occasionally but the one in my Champ FFW never did despite being my daily driver for three years. It was also quite handy that when slowing down in gear, when the generator changed down it was time for me to change down too.

David

I agree with Ruxy. I have opened many WW2 sealed packages of spare parts and have been amazed at the variation of both colour and finish. Remember that in those days there was not the technology to accurately measure colour and degree of matt so paint was mixed by eye against a sample. This lead to huge variations. Certainly full matt will look nice when first painted but will look scruffy very quickly and more importantly does not protect from the elements very well.

David

Sorry but this is too cryptic for me.I also don't see the "one guess - soo close" either. Presumably there are three possible HP ratings for that generation of Leyland engine and we can tell which one this is from the two photos ? How ?

As mentioned above I am amazed that the box was strong enough for the weight of the back axle / gearbox etc load. A really good haul though and superb work on the bus.

David

Hi Bob,

How about part of a cylinder  from a smashed up Liberty engine from a Centaur ?

David

Hi Laurence,

For the rubber, have a look at www.sealsdirect.co.uk  . I have no connection to them but they have a huge number of standard profiles and I have found them easy to deal with.

Regards,  David

Well spotted mtskull, you have me wondering if I am wrong. Perhaps a moderator could enlighten us ? Should we start a petition to get Jon promoted, as you say he certainly deserves it for 'Services to MV restoration'.

David

Whoever sawed them through did an amazingly neat and accurate job of it. If only he had cut through the rectangular section nearer the bearing and it would have been dead easy to weld them back together. At least you have choices of pieces to use.

David

Entirely based on the number of posts. This is to encourage conversations and indeed participation. It is not meant to be taken that seriously but it is quite fun when you get promoted particularly if, like me, you have no idea what the promotion points are !

David

Nice work Ian. Getting panels dead flat is much harder than one might think.

David

You are definitely getting better at this tinwork game. Well done ! It is astonishing that any of these trucks still exist as they were all rotten 40 years ago.

David

"Hi There,

It looks very dodgy to me. I certainly wouldn't respond or click on anything but if you hover the cursor over hmvf.co.uk and also the unsubscribe link it might be interesting to see the URL that pops up at the bottom of the screen.

David

All modern (up to 15 years old) cars have similar systems and are generally pretty reliable. Usually it is a sensor or damaged wire causing the problem and you can work out the problem relatively easily without the diagnostics. BUT NOT ALWAYS ! I have a 2005 Range Rover and if the speedo stops working and I get a message that ABS and air suspension aren't working, it means that the left rear ABS sensor has died. Simples !

David

tt33a (do you have a name ?),

See page 2 of this thread, about 1/3 of the way down. Actually it is worth reading all of this thread !

David

Very like that I would think !

David

Also Australian LP2 wheels (with the H section spokes) are the same width as Windsor and so not interchangeable with the others.

David