ferrettkitt

yeh thats us, we had to have it a closed group as to many nutters out there

Jez I haven't even asked if I could join yet and I'm already banned

also combined operations british armed forces living history 1980-2000

we are also on face book

we are based in bristol and do shows in the south and south west

Is this correct? You need to be logged into facebook and I think you have to ask if you can join

https://www.facebook.com/groups/114263755291458/

Some more pictures on the Mersey & Southport Reporter

One of the photographers did mention that pictures would be available in the reporter but I forgot to post the links. Nothing new then hey!

Part 1

http://www.southportreporter.com/512/512-12.shtml#axzz1WPEupYxW

Part 2

http://www.southportreporter.com/513/513-10.shtml#axzz1WPEupYxW

Part 3 less military vehicles

http://www.southportreporter.com/514/514-10.shtml#axzz1WPEupYxW

It also depends which date period you want to stay in with your weapons. Woodern SLR's were used upto a certain period, then NBC stuff came in to action and they changed furniture to plastic, in the 80's I think as plastic was easy to wrip down if chemicals got on them as wood would have soaked any chemicals and stay on there for a while. I not sure on prices, but I'm looking to join a reenactment group covering either the 80's or 90's, know of any?

 

All the best Trevor the barber

Forces 80 seems to ring a bell for that kind of period. They have a really good website with plenty of info http://www.forces80.com/

Tar for the info all the same its always appreciated even if I forget to say thank you.

Depends if new or old spec for the deac, slr old spec £500-£700, new spec £200-£350 depending on condition etc.

 

I paid £220 for my No4, and similar for my new spec slr.

 

Hope this helps?

 

Mark

Sorry forgot to say thank you!!

Spot on exactly what I wanted to hear. At the moment I don't know which they are a pre 95 deac or post 95 deac.

I have been offered a SLR and No.4 how much are they worth now? I haven't seen either of the deacs yet so I know very little about them

Does it make any difference if the SLR has wood or plastic furniture?

started her up, ran for a few mins before springing a leak from carb. its leaking near the accelerator linkage but not sure why. any ideas ?

It has a seal at the pivot point on the shaft and from memory on the opposite side of the carb as well. Rebuild kit needed I think

I second what Lewis says, how have some of these people passed there test and why are the police finding more and more people driving with no insurance i wonder!!!!!

I think the whole insurance situation has got ridiculous but what can i do, just sit back and wait!!!!!!!

 

Regards

Henry

Remember the vast majority of us oldies have been in you're position when we started its not new! At least the cars that you drive now will be roadworthy I had a Lada as a first car. Built like a tank drove like a tank, pity the wiring was Italian in design. It once wrapped round the steering column whilst I was turning left! A quick tug to the right had it going in the right direction :shocked:

No ! I think you will find that DOT5 is a silicone type fluid.

Glad you know what you're talking about!

Thats a cracker I have one or two of these horns that don't work that I have wanted to have a go at repairing them I just haven't had the info.

Many thanks for supplying

Hi Andy,

 

Just a point about your fluid equivalent chart. Brake fluid in Mk1 and Mk2 Ferrets is definitely not mineral, DOT3 and 4 is a synthetic fluid. Now, the Ferret Mk4 uses OM13 as it has disc brakes.

 

OM, means Oil, Mineral and OF is Oil, Fatty (ie vegetable or synthetic)

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the info I'll change it forewith

Is OM13 equivalent to DOT 5?

Thanks Richard

 

....just how bad is 'semi fluid grease' then? - my Ferret is very clean inside!!

It is a fluid clear in colour its not greasy fluid do you have to change it could you suck it out?

Park it with the front higher than the back open a hull plate beneath the sump plug and let it drain out. I think its a clear fluid I would suggest swilling out with kerosene or paraffin but I'm not sure if it will thin and wash away the fluid.

If you want to remove paint from plastic brake fluid is the easiest to get hold of it will eventually remove the paint.You can go to a large shop that sells model kits and toys and buy a product that will remove paint from plastic. I suspect caustic soda would do the same job check for aluminuim or any zinc coatings before dipping though.

Another way a couple of squirts of engine oil on a rag and a quick rub of the paint and see if you have any green paint on the cloth. A lot of MOD paint can be removed with petrol or oil as its not impervious to those products.

From my printing days ink in a lot of cases is made up of varnish as its base with added dyes and pigments. UV in is great fun on a printing press when the UV lights come into contact with the paper web. Fire

Agricultural vehicles spend the vast majority of there lives off road and I think they have to be being used as an agricultural vehicle. I also seem to remember from another thread that they can not stray to far from home base.

Too many things to trip over nowadays

Willy has sent me on a tangent

 

One for the wife http://www.instructables.com/id/Jerry-Can-Trash-Can/

Whats the chance that I'll get that one past the missus............ Not a cat in hells chance but I do like it!

Most of the oil stuff should be at the bottom of this page http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/useful_info.htm

EP90 I could do with a clarification if that is o.k. to use

[TABLE=align: left]

[TR]

[TD][TABLE=width: 914]

[TR]

[TD]Capacities[/TD]

[TD]Key[/TD]

[TD]Imperial[/TD]

[TD]Metric (litres)[/TD]

[TD]Oil Specs Military[/TD]

[TD]Oil Specs Civilian[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]Steering bevel box (upper)[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]1[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]1½ pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]0.85[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]OEP-220[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]90EP Gear oil[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]Steering cross-shaft bevel box (lower)[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]1[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]1½ pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]0.85[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]OEP-220[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #CA9880]90EP Gear oil[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]Inner tracta joint housings, including bevel boxes[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]2 + 10[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]3 pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]1.7[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]OEP-220[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #CA9880]90EP Gear oil[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]Outer tracta joint housings, including road wheel hubs[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]3 + 11[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]1½ pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]0.85[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]OEP-220[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #CA9880]90EP Gear oil[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]Front and Rear Prop shafts[/TD]

[TD]4[/TD]

[TD=colspan: 3]Three grease nipples per shaft[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #C0C0C0]Multi purpose grease[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]Transfer box[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]5[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]6 pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]3.41[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #CA9880]OEP-220[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #CA9880]90EP Gear oil[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]Gearbox[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]6[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]1¼ gal[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]5.7[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]OMD-110[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #008000]SAE 30 straight[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]Air cleaner[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]7[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]4 pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]2.28[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]OMD-110[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #008000]SAE 30 straight[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #0080FF]Fluid coupling[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #0080FF]8[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #0080FF]9¾ pints[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #0080FF]5.52[/TD]

[TD=width: 151, bgcolor: #0080FF]0M13[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #0080FF]ISO10 or ISO15[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]Engine lubrication system (dry sump)[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]9 + 12[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]3 gal[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]13.64[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #008000]OMD-110[/TD]

[TD=width: 210, bgcolor: #008000]SAE 30 straight[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=bgcolor: #808040]Engine cooling system[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #808040]13[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #808040]4½ gal[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #808040]20.46[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #808040]Not spec.[/TD]

[TD=bgcolor: #808040]Antifreeze[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]Fuel Tank - total including 3 gal reserve[/TD]

[TD]not in pic blw[/TD]

[TD]21 gal[/TD]

[TD]95.5[/TD]

[TD=width: 151]N/A[/TD]

[TD=width: 210]N/A[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]Brake fluid supply tank[/TD]

[TD]not in pic blw[/TD]

[TD]1¼ pints[/TD]

[TD]0.71[/TD]

[TD]OF-20 or OF-24[/TD]

[TD]Dot 3 / 4[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

What is the modern equivalent of OM15 oil, or an off the shelf product like an EP80, ATM, LHM gearbox oil. This is for the Ferret fluid flywheel but cant seem to get a definite answer as to what can be used.:undecided:

ISO10 or ISO15 is what you should be looking to buy

The loose nut was behind the steering wheel as you already know and I'm not counting you in that.

Its the thing that I mentioned to you its something that can be sorted in the winter when I have a bit more time and my back doesn't hurt anymore.

Andy, you were lucky there. It was a quick & easy fix! BUT if driven a long distance with the bearings having that much poor adjustment. It MAY well have resulted in a more costly repair! Not to mention a potential breakage! Welldone Buddy!

Have no fear it has proved costly when I remove the hub and I'll post up the pictures. It might have been the journey down to Beltring and back (unlikely) it was obviously something that hadn't been done correctly its one to chalk down experience.

I had wanted to put in for a full service but I was talked out of it.

Cracking way to use a Jerry can

I think the public does see all military vehicles as fair game in respect to climbing all over them. They must think that as they have paid for them then why shouldn't they let there little brats climb all over them. Lack of respect

Yep the military world can be very clique I don't know why but once you make the effort to talk to them they seem o.k.

I had the armed response team turn up at my place of work because someone was silly enough to be riding around in a Jeep with a machine pistol hanging on the back ( Plastic, but looking very real.) and that was not the first time that he had attracted the attention of the police............. it really does not do our image much good where the authorities are concerned, I was not impressed.

That is one of the reasons why it has to be covered up. My brother decided to walk home many moons ago without the cover for my air rifle the police didn't take to kindly to that... understandable.

Thanks for your replies, experience is definitely key! I always jump at the chance of driving any type of vehicle off road, practice makes perfect so they say!

So 18 is minimum legal age but 21 and you can get your insurance for the lorry, is this right?

Experience is everything you can't buy it you just have to go out and do it. I had an idea that you were already driving vehicles off road otherwise you wouldn't have the interest.

So 18 is minimum legal age but 21 and you can get your insurance for the lorry, is this right? Yes I think that statement is correct but ask the insurances companies directly what the minimum age is for being insured for driving a classic military vehicle. My Ferret only goes out to play at a maximum of twenty times a year and has a limited mileage of three thousand miles per year. Most of the insurances companies know that these vehicles have a limited exposure to the public roads hence reducing any possible claims.

Being forty doesn't stop me remembering my lack of experience on the road when I first started out at 18 or 19. I'm quite happy to admit to making mistakes as well, thats all part of the fun when you first start driving.

Minimum age to drive a car was 17 1/2 it might have gone up to 18. In regards to a pre 1960's vehicle like a Matador you might be able drive it when you pass you're driving test.Whether you can be insured to do so is another matter I think the minimum age for a classic policy is twenty one.

I wouldn't like to be on the same road as you though, you have no experience of driving a car on the public highway. You need those first years of driving a normal car to gain experience and yes make all you're mistakes in a vehicle that doesn't weigh as much as a Matador.

Honest opinion straight talking

I was going to write a song and dance about how my RB44 failed its MOT on a front wheel bearing. But what it comes down to is that just because you have a low mile-aged example doesn't mean that the taper bearings on the hubs (brake drums) have been set up correctly. One side was bad (drivers side) the other wasn't far off being worse.

Check for play in the front wheels by jacking the vehicle up and see if it has excess play in the bearings when you move it up and down.

If you find play you will need to buy a 65 mm hub spanner or socket.

The passenger side hub inner nut that butts up between the shim and the bearing wasn't even tight it could be turned by hand by at least two and a half turns.