cosrec

Just found these pictures thought i would put them on to show how effective scotch blocks are if you are on good ground or tarmac I tried to find these pics many posts ago when i was trying to explain how to max out on holding power try it out on a pioneer it will make a big differance if you put scotch blocks on rear axle as i described

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Have been off line fora while but it has given me time to think about scotches. Firstly you learnsomething every day I have never seen the picture of the C.E.S before I suspectthis was equipment cobbled together here in the UK the Ts where never shippedfrom the states with them as no provision for anchoring them was fitted. Yesthey have a hard ground soft ground way up but from experience forget usingthem flat side down it creates less resistance then a locked rubber tyre ontarmac/ concrete. The Uk scotches also can do a lot of damage on twin wheel setups if use between the wheels as they have insufficient width and even whenwinching straight out the back they can flip and wedge between the tyres. Ihave had it happen to me on a civilian scammell crusader on the A1 one nightcost me a new tyre as well.

Here is the DT I mentioned, you can just make out the scotch arrangement.

Yes the scotch is of a design made by Holmes wrecker and is much wider and stronger than the british army one. These were only supplied post war and the bodies in this case UK built had a key hole slots in the back valance. they where a very good rig but as I said they came with a disclaimer about damaging pavement and rear body. that truck will have been built as a wrecker around 1973 at a guess

my apologies I have just read original post again I had it in mind you where talking 969 t eg wrecker. No the 981 never was supplied with scotches

the picture radio mike is talking about shows a diamond t a mastiff and a mobile crane recovering a artic. the two wreckers had bodies built at Caxton Hill by dial Holmes they had key hole slots to hang the scotches in. The scotch blocks where much heavier construction than the british army design I may be wrong but I don't believe the 969 t ever came with scotches

A good stop gap is a couple of sleepers arranged each side so that one end is is under the middle axle tyres the other end is on top of the rear axle tyres let handbrake off let truck roll back until axles try to climb over each over. Apply handbrake and foot brake then go for it. You can make anchor points for scotches if you get correct length of chain with a shortening claw on each end. wrap around base of mast brace so claws hang lower than rear of body Maybe put a lump of timber to space them so they at wheel width. Let truck winch back until it is virtually at top of scotch before applying brakes Also there was a disclaimer that came with Caxton Hill built wreckers use of Scotches can damage Pavement and rear body assembly. One other thing if you do happen to come across a tree in the right place either pay load of to it via snatch block or split booms and use as designed. DO not try tethering front end I know there is a winch on there but the W45 is more than capable of folding the chassis

looks like a lot of truck. never seen one in UK but have seen plenty in south of Germany always loaded with dozers

Certainly made that look easy I am fascinated by the whole process hope you have as much success. Brilliant the whole subject

I agree, the rear main seal would have a negligible effect as a reason for a tight crank.

I, too have towed jeeps around with the engine turning to free them off a little after

the installation of new bearings. If it's really tight try helping it a little by removing the plugs.

I assume that the rods are all true and that you've not gone the extra yard when tightening

the end caps? A complete last resort would be to drop the pan and ever so slightly back off

the end caps, replace the pan and oil etc and run the engine for five minutes or so, then repeat

the process to torque specs. Just about everybody will tell you not to do this but I have, with

complete success and no apparent repercussions.

The mere fact you posted it seemed tight hinted all was not good so why go further sort it which way you want

I agree, the rear main seal would have a negligible effect as a reason for a tight crank.

I, too have towed jeeps around with the engine turning to free them off a little after

the installation of new bearings. If it's really tight try helping it a little by removing the plugs.

I assume that the rods are all true and that you've not gone the extra yard when tightening

the end caps? A complete last resort would be to drop the pan and ever so slightly back off

the end caps, replace the pan and oil etc and run the engine for five minutes or so, then repeat

the process to torque specs. Just about everybody will tell you not to do this but I have, with

complete success and no apparent repercussions.

take it back out real seal aint going to make that much difference/ but if that is not what you want to hear give it a tow start and give it a blast around and see if it frees of

personally think its you choice brake shoes wont be bothered what they rub against. Years ago we were taught to grind wear lip of with grinder and rough up shiny bit as much possible with sand paper./meant emery tape

probably pie in the sky but how about a couple of formers and your mates press as per this clip

See what you mean about the split pin strange arrangement. Have seen similar before on a very old jones baler holding ram crank on to gearbox and they never worked loose so must be fit for purpose

don't want to probe to far but how is MJ registerd

No...

Every day a school day never heard of EFA before

looks like Niek has given the definitive answer to what your vehicle is and how it came about. I would not use it in anger with out bracing it forward or without stabiliser poles when over the back.

Mike I was agreeing with you the photo showing autocar u-8444 wrecker is 100% not the same crane the a frame I said was civilian was the bit that spaces the wrecker from the casualty

Hello' date='

 

This vehicle was a normal GMC CCKW 352, changed post war by a garage owner from Ramskapelle near Nieuwpoort (Belgium). The wrecking gear comes from a ex-belgian army Ford F6 (see photo attached). The vehicle was also converted to 12 volt bij the same owner. Sadly the truck never saw any service as a wrecker because the owner died not long after. If i recall correctly the name of the garage was Mortelez. It was a Peugeot dealership i believe.

Hope this info helps.

 

Regards,

Niek[/quote'] Was it painted bright red

Hi Mike,

Is your contact captain Crank? There was a post from him about his Autocar on this forum (he is a member) & I have included his post as the link in my post.

that is 100% not the same crane

I have now bought this jimmy but have not yet arranged delivery, so have not been able to crawl over it! I have done some digging & compared some photos but this has not helped answer the question on authenticity.

Although the crane assembly looks similar to that on the Diamond T chemical truck the frame at the top is different & the Diamond does not have hydraulic hoses. There was a similar crane fitted to a few Autocars by the US airforce, I believe, for aircraft salvage although again there is no record of that. The crane seems the same as the Diamond one while the GMC, although similar, has different drives on the controls.http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?16778-Hello-from-Hamburg-USA/page2

If it was a post war conversion then it must have cost a fortune - I'm sure modifying the PTO to run THREE different drives is not the work of a weekend. Also, most trucks stuck with a set 7 or a simple tripod arrangement for towing if a Diamnd T wrecker or Ward could not be bought surplus at the right price.

Not every GMC variant was listed but I can't help feeling that all the gear on this truck is American made while post war mods came from all over!

Here is a photo of the operating side of the crane - see how it differs from the Diamond setup & bears no resemblance to the Ward La France. Please keep your ideas coming!

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Hi sorry if I misled you originally regards model but was right about make. I am curious about the vehicle. When you mention hydraulic hoses what are they for eg has it been converted to hydraulic motor drive. My own feelings are the drag winch and towing frame are civilian mods. The more I look at it I have seen a vehicle with that crane on it in fire brigade colours/use. I have checked on pictures in Falck museum. Not there so was on a working station in scandanavia /Holland maybe about 30 years ago

From pictures it looks like who ever put body on was hoping to get around plating and testing buy calling it a recovery vehicle. But this wont work for a vehicle this size that carries a load on its back. I would suggest you find out what its load ratings are eg overall each axle etc. Preferably from the manufacturer and have this in written form. Next you will with out a doubt have to convert it to dual circuit brakes. This will mean a few valves and piping on the chassis may be an extra air tank and a new foot valve. next the brakes have to be able to cope with the weights suggested. This may mean another set of spring pots on the rear axle plus another overload protection valve. (although it might have a transmission brake I don't know). Next it will have to be fitted with obligatory lights/indicators/brake lightsf/ fogs (with relevant marks on them if they want to pedantic). side rear markers and side guards. having done this and it passes you should in theory be able to down plate to a weight you can drive it on a car licence although looking at it I very much doubt it. It will be possible to test it and I wish you luck with it but look carefully at cost before going to far with cosmetic work. I guess this type of vehicle will have been used and approved for use by US forces in Germany if so you used to be able to use the german approval no in the UK Oh and you will need some different front wheels or some boy racer arches on the front plus spray suppression gear all round