tankdiver

 

 

 

 

I need a data plate for a Daimler Ferret  at a reasonable price

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

easiest way is 

to replace with an electric pump . I fitted two on separate  circuits and put in a separate kill switch on both of them.         no more fuel filling the sump. CVRT 24v  will do or you can fit  a 12v using one battery there is plenty on ebay. I took the engine out to clean 

and put a blanking plate were the pump was

Does anybody have any spare 9 x 9 tent frame parts? I managed to lose a straight joiner and corner piece when packing up quickly in the rain so looking for either/both or I would buy a complete frame or a bundle of bits if that’s what somebody has and wants to sell them all together. Thanks in advance.

I will have a look I have poles and connectors Salisbury

regards Laurence

Hi

 

Have spent a bit of time (along with others) in trying to sort out a Ferret Fuel Pump problem.

 

The conclusion we have reached is that the pump is not pumping when fitted to the engine. The pump works fine when it off the engine. When fitted to the engine, Fuel filter bled and fuel lines primed no fuel is reaching the carb.

 

The fuel pump is driven via a push rod and cam in the engine, are these prone to wear ?

 

Also what 24V electric fuel pump can anyone recommend and where is the best place to fit one ?

 

Cheers

Richard

Hi Richard when the mechanical pump is on form it works fine . problems occur as the cam that drives it wears or the diaphragm is torn due to bad / incorrect fitting or perished diaphragm. Smell your dip stick does it smell of petrol. I am with the guy,s get an electric pump . I fit two , one as a back up. I put the switches in obscure places they act as an ant- theft device. Starting is great . Its better than pumping petrol oil around and having to replace big and main ends not to mention cams , bearings ,push rods and oil passing past oil seals.

 

regards

Laurence

Hi, I'm on the look out for a known working 24v 2 speed generator for a Ferret Scout Car.

 

Thanks

 

Jim

Hi Im I am about to put one on ebay

regards Laurence

I have taken the tank out on all the ferrets I have had 5 in total. the worst one had a tar like gunge all the way up the pipes and took a lot of time and air pressure to unblock it. I thought it may only have about a couple of gallons in it. It was a mad rush to find more cans it finished up with 2.5 jerrycans and tons all over me and the floor.It really irritated the skin like burning.The tank will go through the turret and is not that heavy but needs a little jiggling.once out a good clean and soak with thinners hot soapy water then jet wash final petrol wash.

Laurence

all now sold

Laurence

Hi, now I'm aware this is a long shot but does anyone happen to have any spare wings or bins for a ferret scout car.

 

Regards

 

Jim[/quote

Hi Jim

I have built a few of these but they are not easy there is lots of angles for example the center bin took a week to build I sold one for £350 but it was hard the other although smaller will take just as long so be aware if anyone offers to do one there is a lot of work.

regards

Laurence

Hi It appears that I have THREE of These with my spare parts.

regards

Laurence

.

Great tutorial with excellent photos to explain things even better. I would welcome any photos of the 'distance piece', that's the spacer at the back of the sun wheel. I happen to need a pair of these, the spaces that is! the manual talks of them coming in three sizes.

 

What did the shims look like which came off with the Sun wheel pls.?

 

Thanks for taking the time to post .

 

Jim

Hi Jim I will have a look in one or two of my parts boxes

Laurence

PART 3

 

When I came to Fit the oil seal from my parts I noticed the seal was correct on the outside diameter but the internal diameter for the shaft was two large. The dealer that had supplied me replaced them F.O.C. as they had been supplied with the incorrect seals

The planet, sun and annulus holder being fitted.

The retaining bolts had all the locking devices,

but had signs of lock tight sealer on the threads

so this was cleaned off and a small amount applied

 

 

showing the small roller bearing retaining washer

When building up the hubs rotate the hub by hand

ensuring nothing has jammed .

 

 

Using a flexible sealing compound

on the hub

 

 

 

New allen bolts with sealant on threads

PART 3

 

shows plannets removed

 

 

remove washer

 

Planet carrier

 

 

Using leavers to remove hub

By applying even pressure

it should come off BUT....

 

Now using a large puller

 

 

using WD 40 to help the inner bearing to come off but

another puller was required .The shaft needed cleaning of

to allow the bearings to slide on and off easily

PART 2

 

 

 

 

Using 5/16 unf bolt remove plate

 

Always count needle rollers

when removing and fitting

 

Shows SUN, PLANETS and ANNULUS.

 

All part kept together.

 

Shows the taper roller bearings

these should easily be removed.

on this Ferret they were extremely

hard to remove. If you are unable

to remove a large puller is required.

PART 1.

 

Ferret hubs are not for the faint hearted and some skill is needed to do them!

the allen bolt must

have a good fitting key

On this hub I found a stay piece of gasket

which if it had found its way into the eppicyclic gears

it would have destroyed them

Undo the tab washer and

large nut

undo the nuts holding the outer bearing then using

a 5/16 unf bolt draw it off [ spanners shown in the next picture]

 

 

Note the position of this gasket.

Ensure all the needle rollers are counted

there should be 24 for each planet gear

whenever it was built on this Ferret one of the planets had only 23

the planet and carrier was changed and a new set fitted

Place all parts on a clean surface and replace any damaged items

I agree a electric pump is better than the mechanical pump .The vehicle starts straight away on the first flick on the starter.

Mechanical pumps can leak fuel into the oil due to a torn diaphragm caused with bad fitment or rot.

I'm needing a pair of the Hub sun gears from a Daimler ferret, anyone pls?

 

Cheers Jim.

Hi Jim

I believe I have a NOS annulus planet s and sun gear in one of my parts bins If you are interested P M me .I will be away for a couple of weeks after Friday.

regards

Laurence

Hi Richard

I believe I have a couple of complete assemblies ie annulus planets and sun gear in a spares bin in the workshop .I believe they are NOS .PM me if you are interested and I will have a rummage.

Laurence

Hi

I just bought a LH side full unit and only used the cylinder the cable is new .original cost inc P+P was £140

If you are interested make me an offer.I will be travelling up north in about 10 days.

regards.

Hi Matt

I had a post on the 20/10/16 FERRET BRAKES and posted several pictures. The problem was an air lock in the pipes after air ingress through the new flexible pipes nuts .Originally i could not get a decent hand brake so I investigated and finished doing a complete overhaul.

I now have two champs + two ferrets .

One is running and I am sorting out the teething problems possible reg no is 00CC56 1959.

The other is coming to the end of a restoration possible army reg 01CA71.

All external bin I remade last year and fitted new internal boxes. I have done a full overhaul of all brakes and all pipe replaced , an easy job compared with the running one.

The engine has only done 3000 miles but I replaced all of the ignition leads new distributor and an electric pump as the diaphragm on the mechanical pump was leaking into the engine oil .Once the internal parts are put back its a paint job in the spring . I will post pictures of both of the in the spring

regards

Laurence.

Wow when dealing with pressures of over a 1000 psi it reminds me of an idiot that throwing a used diving bottle into his boat with the result in the tap breaking and going through his boat and finishing up on the beach 700 meters away.

His boat was nearly sunk and the bottle just missed some sunbathers his responce was stupid laughter.As an ex diver Be very careful

when dealing with compressed a gas and use the high pressure hose 3000psi to 5000psi when decanting from a cylinder.

laurence

Finally the war on these brakes is over till the next conflict[Ferret Brakes]

 

After fighting the worst set of brake problems on a ferret that I have encountered its now sorted

The hand brake is now balanced and the worst bleeding brakes are working well.

 

The worst problem was getting it to bleed .

After normal and abnormal bleeding I forced fluid down the pipes and found the new front pipes were not sealing on the pipe flange as the female nut was 1/16 to long and it was tightening on the Tub. After taking off a small amount off the nut and after more and more bleeding over several days . I finally got a 1" brake travel so I used brake clamps on all the flexible pipes and achieved a hard pedal. Now I am making progress ,with my daughter helping I released each clamp to locate the air in the system. One brake was bled and fully adjusted [brakes binding till bled then released] this finally sorted the last of the air in the system. GREAT PEDAL NOW

 

The problem with the pedal brackets breaking suddenly during this process has made me check the other ferret for fatigue in the alloy brackets as if it failed under braking there is no foot brakes. This is a concern so check your ferret

Yes Laurence http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15g-Castrol-Red-Rubber-Grease-Brake-Caliper-Fluid-Mini-Tin-BUY-2-GET-5-OFF-NOW-/131714656463?hash=item1eaace28cf:g:WqsAAOxyu~lSTrTO

 

 

Thanks Clive I will get some .

I found a new tool After trying bleeding the brakes with no fluid coming out I pushed fluid throgh the rear pipe with a plastic bottle filled with brake fluid and found the air leakon the front flexible hose.The problem was the female pipe was tightening onto the tub instead of the pipe flange as the nut was just to long by 1/16" .This I ground off and some progress was made but it is still being a to pain to get a good pedal.

 

More examination shows the master cylinder has a small leak off the secondary seal so I will replace

 

one step forward /////

Laurence

I have pulled the vehicle into the workshop and will do a full inspection of all the brakes and fit new seals and pipes at the same time. It was supposed to have been done by the previous owner .

 

 

I think this ferret is winning the battle at present but it will not win the war

 

After doing all the cylinders flexible brake pipes and master cylinder rubbers It would not bleed .

Today I have rechecked all the pipes and found that the front flexible female nut was slightly to long, causing it to tighten on the tub rather than the pipe connection.

I only found this out by doing things different with the bleeding after several attempts with normal bleeding.

As the fluid would not come down the pipes due to these pipes causing an air leak, I forced fluid into the metal pipes with a small plastic bottle ,as I pushed the fluid into the pipes I noticed fluid escaping on one of the front pipes.Looking at it very closely it was tightened against the tub as the female nut was a little to long. After removing 1/16" off the nut it allowed enough clearance to grip onto the brake flange/ male pipe end

Once this air leak was sorted fluid was now able to be bled.

Thinking I am making progress I noticed a small leak around the M/C and I checked pipes and copper washers but it was coming from the secondary seal on the M/C ,Well re- sleeve the M/C is now required.

 

Pity it looked really good when I re-rubbered them

more photos

When I started to do the master cylinder I undid the dust cover and it was full of rusty water .

My initial thought was it will need a resleave but was amazed that the cylinder was great and rubbers would be OK .

 

I always lubricate with rubberized grease or Brake fluid and will always flush the system with brake fluid as any other fluid will make the rubbers to rot and fail , even in the past when lockheed and girling fluid mixed would cause the seals to fail. Brake fluids are much better today and usually mix .

 

I have now come to the end of my old stock of rubberized grease and have not seen any in the motor factor any one use this type of grease today?

 

With the bleeding of the brakes I should have done one side at a time and bled as I went on, instead of allowing so much air into the system.

 

My helper my daughter had to go home but we will give it another try tomorrow. I will try some other method of bleeding to see if the fluid starts to move.

 

So far I rechecked the master cylinders airbleed ,main seals and secondary seals by removing the M/C, then bled the master cylinder by undoing the pipe as well as various bleeding techniques I have done over the years.

 

To think I have used this vehicle for 20 miles with these brakes that were supposed to have been done.

 

Ferrets are never boring.

Laurence

Yes Its a pain I am at present dealing with the worst bleed of brakes that I have ever done the last one was in 1970 on a ford 100E that took a whole week to sort out . Fortunate for the customer we did not charge all the time we left the vehicle for another week and returned to it with the intention of going through the procedure again and found the system had bled out the air by itself. At present I canl not get fluid to the cylinders and I am at present trying several methods to achieve this .tomorrow is another day.

 

Laurence