tankdiver

Sorting  and clearing out my gear I found have  over a hundred empty steel shell cases  and 30+ titanium shell cases  if anyone is interested  UK only

Cheap enough to fill you shell racks in CVRT and CVRW vehicles I only have a few dense plastic heads

A single steel case will be  £4  and  a dense plastic head will  be £ 6

10 steel cases  go down to £3  ,50 steel cases at £2 each The steel cases clean up well with a angle grinder wire brush

Titanium cases are £6 each

 Post and Package is extra depending on weight. Pm me

Weird and wonderful contraption .Its good to see how engineers in the past came up with solutions.

well found

33 minutes ago, Nick Johns said:

From Richards link above, the unusual Walter 4x4 transmission, using a gearbox transaxle unit, and locking differentials..at least 50 years before Audi perfected the same idea for the Quattro

Until we see the actual axle it is a  pointless  debate.  the diff mounted on the axle is in fact a rear axle.and the spring mounted this way is to allow heavy loads to be carried without the axle being to high . Its an interesting layout not one I have seen

Regards

Until we see the actual axle it is a  pointless  debate.  the diff mounted on the axle is in fact a rear axle.and the spring mounted this way is to allow heavy loads to be carried without the axle being to high . Its an interesting layout not one I have seen

Regards

It Looks like  beam axle to me if there is a diff  its not clear in the photo the highlighted part is the rear  diff. If lt was a 4x4  and a heavy hauler the diff banjo would be a large round casing at the front. This vehicle appears not to have one

Laurence

Hi 

I have  some cases steel ones {green } and I believe  titanium  ones brassy / green tinge Pm me if interested

Laurence

I will get some out and post a picture of the head stamp

Regards Laurence

Thanks for this  its quite a vehicle

.I was wondering if the British army also used 2omm shells ????

I have quite a few  steel 20 mm shells  what vehicle/ gun would use them? 13 cm long  3cm case

I have some  used empty steel  ammo cases   20mm  round s , 13cm long case  3cm.   going cheap £ 1.50 each min 10 + p+p   some rust and dirton then but will clean up

I have also some Raden shells Steel £3 each and light titanium £6 each 

You are quite right Richard  I think it cleansed all the crankcase and was just about to get to the sludge that dropped into the sump judging by the strainer  pick up . It will be interesting to get to the filter at a later date to see how full of sludge  there is.

I am looking forward to getting it running again with good clean oil  and hope all the oil galleries are clear  .I will give them a good blast with the air line. I think this engine has had little running due to its internal. condensation  It will get a good run when its finished

regards 

Laurence

I have just started on the B40 engine with the intention of a  rebuild .       On taken off the rocker cover  the inside was spotless and on one of  the nuts inside  had some condensation rust. 

On removal of the sump inside the lower crankcase  was very clean { SPOTLESS } as if it had been petrol washed  the sump had clean sides but in the base was about a litre

 of thick sludge, that covered the bottom of the sump pan and had not come out when the engine was drained. Further examination of the crankcase and bearings showed good bearing  surface on both the main and big ends.

The con rods had condensation rust on them which was easily removed with a petrol soaked rag.  Pondering the clean engine with good   B /end  & main bearings  I came to the assumption that the engine had been overhauled and a detergent oil  was used which totally removed all of the  old sediment present and dropping it in the base of the sump.

This reminded me of engine failures in the sixties when the detergent oils were introduced  sludge blocked  the intake gauze and starved the bearings.

Again pondering the removal of the oil it did not remove the sludge , so now when I do engine oil removal  after I will refillI  and put a mixture of petrol oil and allow to stand then drain the sump again to remove any deposits of sludge,

Regarding the engine  I will replace the big end bearings as these take the most wear  but retain the original main bearings.

I must be a little out dated with the cost of bearings  as they were over  3 times the amount estimated   I use to pay £50- £80 max  for big end bearings and for todays prices  I would have had a regrind shaft and all bearings throwing in. All they are is a mildsteel shell with white metal on it.

some more pictures of the build .The engine  and gearbox is now out ready to be overhauled and the engine bay is resprayed

Some time ago I purchased an Austin Champ for spares. After a full inspection the floors,lower panels, arches were needing  a total reconstruction .The chassis was in good condition and the engine ran so I decided to repair  it as a last project , to take  2or 3 years. I am in the second year and have completed the  floors in  heavy 16 gauge  steel mad new body panels in 18  gauge steel rather than the thinner 20 gauge steel.  I have been surprised several times  on the condition of the mechanics  as the body was   extremely poor and the vehicle looked a dog.

The fuel tank was like new  suspension , steering etc were  good and easy  to restore only requiring rubber gaiters  The rear axle  I replaced the crown wheel and pinion with a  modern one having a better grade steel .

At present the underbody suspensions,  diffs,  steering , new brake shoe and cylinders have been done .  A new brake master  cylinder  and brake pipes are to be fitted then internal work electrics and body work to be completed. I will attach more picture and updates as it progresses 

Hi Nick 

Its a lot of work just actually getting to  the props  and then  that stupid brake adjuster ???    I think some  army  drivers forgot to take the handbrake off as they were often done.  Its a good brake when adjusted correct.

The polecat is a lot more stable than my  Fox was  and is faster . I still have Raden  Shells for the fox  eg steel 30mm and  I think titanium ones from helicopters they are green to brass looking if you are interested. I also have tinwork covering the propshafts  etc

Regards  

Laurence

If you want to register it .save time and go to champ owners club they are great  Jerry  Toms  did mine and was amazing had it done in a Jiff. The DVLA will have you going around in circles as I have found to my cost.

Laurence

Regarding the red nuts if they are taken off with even  a little air in them air in them it may kill you . when I was teaching mechanics I ,used a picture from Dunlop  tyres on the imprint of death  which was a tyre fitter blasted into the ceiling of the workshop when not using a cage.  So be careful when working on tyres even push bikes.

Laurence

Fitting the inserts for run flats can be  a hard chore i had to do two on a ferret   which took a whole morning . It may take a little less time for a younger guy  as I was in my  70s at that time. Hope  I dont have to do them again

Laurence

Richard I found the method on fitting the  rubber inserts the same  as you did after several attempts but they are an awkward lump

Laurence

Fitting the inserts for run flats can be  a hard chore i had to do two on a ferret   which took a whole morning . It may take a little less time for a younger guy  as I was in my  70s at that time. Hope  I dont have to do them again

Laurence

Getting it registered can be a chore best get help from a club  eg  MVT or the DVLA will send you round the houses.

Laurence

Thanks Nick

I am at present doing a Austin Champ stripping every thing off it , restoring and welding ,it long job and into its second  year.

In the summer I will restart the polecat and ferret ready for shows

Bureaucrats love working in circles to cause confusion and to keep their jobs. Just look at Brexit . I no longer have deacts only replicas  but the law on them is a little stupid to say the least. Its hard enough keeping up with  there  stupid decisions on our hobby. I understand that if you belong to a history group eg  MVT then the replicas dont need to be painted a bright colour  is this correct

£45 pounds an hr  is very cheap my local garage is over £100 an hr.   Working on these vehicles are harder than cars and if you cannot  do the repairs and maintenance yourself  then it going to be costly .I hope you find a good  repairer at a  good rate.