pigdog

Matt,

The only torque settings I've read are the head nuts and the wheel lug nuts. I'll have to get some brass nuts then for mine. Let me know if you find out. I turned my fingers raw trying to renew the stud threads. I finally got a 2 ton crane so I can lift off the engine deck. More room now. I still have to get the hull exhaust off. It seems to be a tuff one. I'm also going to paint the exhaust with hi-temp paint.

-Chris

I have at least 1 of the brass nuts thats stripped. What do I use to replace it? Could I use a brass spacer and hex nut combo?

About sealing the loose pipes. Could a little high temp RTV sealant do it?

-Chris

Ferret 00 EC 55

Matt,

Its good this thread is helping you out also. I'll be picking up my manifolds today from the machine shop. I'll post a pic when I get them. Mine where like yours. The studs are 5/16 24 thread. I have some dies comming tomorrow to be able to renew the threads. I still have to look at the exhaust tappets. The copy of the generic B60 engine manual I have seems to be missing the pages for setting them.

:mad:

-Chris

here are the machined manifolds. Nice and smoooth. Theres a crack on the one which hopefully wont turn around and bite me later.

Very cool. Congrats!

Ok both the manifolds are off now. The second one went alot quicker. The brass nuts which I assume are all the same size when new are a bit like squashed marshmallows. Can/should they be replaced?

-Chris

ferret 00 EC 55

I figured I should just do them all. I have all the gaskets. I have a local car show in March that I want to take my Ferret for its first showing. Its a British pre-1975 show. Wait till they see the Ferret drive in! :wow:

Thanks guys.

Now the big question is.....

Do I go ahead and remove the other manifold and replace the gaskets there, or wait and replace them when they blow???

The mating surface on the one removed is pretty rough and its a little warped. Do I need to get it milled down to a smooth surface? Any high temp sealer used on the manifold?

Ok I have the generic B60 manual, and have the gap settings tag. Do I need to use the timming mark for setting the tappets cold?

--Thanks--Chris

My arms are all black and blue from digging in the engine bay for the last 2 days.

Chris,

 

The manifold might want facing anyhow, if it has been blowing, also check for bowing, with a straight edge. There are two types of gasket, one is a stainless steel shim type, the other is a thicker composite type, I prefer to use the thicker ones.

SUCCESS! I finally got if off! tapping it from the bottom out then tapping in back on. There was just enough wiggle to go back and forth. I'll check it next with a straightedge. I have the thicker gaskets that seem to be a sandwich of an inner ( asbestos)? and outer metal/copper layer. I also need to check the tappets and replace the gaskets there. What manual has that info? I thought I have all of them but havent found it yet.

Thanks for the wedge secret.

-Chris

Richard,

Ive been doing as you recommended. Using a screwdiver as a wedge and tapping it in and then hammering the manifold back on. I did it all day, back and forth and been soaking it with the Kroil. The studs are rusted, but arent too bad I think. I just hope the screw driver isnt wrecking the mating surfaces, tho I am going slow and carefull. I didnt know that brass dosent corrode. I'll keep trying.

-Chris

dissimilar metal corrosion.:cool2:

that'll doo

My Ferret came with a plexiglasss panel that attaches with the inner locks. The pic shows the back of it. The previous owner made it. I prefer the wind in the face tho. :-D

-Chris

Well round 2 goes to the ferret. I spent all day yesterday trying to separate the manifold, but no luck. The problem is the inner bolts are a tight fit whereas the outer 2 have wider holes. I can get it about 1/3 away from the block. The problem is trying to evenly wedge it away. Will be trying again today.

If the studs are steel and the nuts are brass, dont the two different metals cause corosion? I forgot the word used for it.

-Chris

The rest of my exhaust is ok I believe. My ferret came with a set of replacement manifold gaskets. I only had to get the hull ones. At least there you have better access to parts. I cant imagine the postage of shipping an exhaust stateside. Any luck getting the brass nuts off? I'll be trying my manifold again today.

-Chris

have exhaust leaks due to corroded gaskets.

Matt, as far as getting the nuts off I used lots of Kroil. I drove the ferret yesterday in the hope of expanding the nuts on the studs. Then I sprayed the Kroil penetrating oil on the studs before the engine cooled off, but not when it was still hot. I also tapped lightly on the manifold and let it soak overnight. The problem is the brass 9/16 nuts didnt exactly fit the wrench. On those I used a 15mm open end. also I wire brushed the end of the studs. I must have got lucky they didnt cause too much trouble. The Kroil really is great stuff if you can get it there. I'm then using a tummbler to clean up the rusted parts.

Richard,

I'll try the wedge method, and soak it again overnight with Kroil.

Thanks-Chris

Ok I removed the brass nuts with a minimum of cuss words, now I'm trying to separate the exhaust mainfold from the block.

Do I need to remove the studs to get the manifold off or is there a trick to getting off without breaking the studs?

Thanks-Chris

Ferret 00 EC 55

Luckily my ferret came with a few spare parts, and the exhaust gaskets were part of it. I only had to get the two hull gaskets. I attached the pic of the new leeds. Also being how rusted everything is I must say that Kroil is super at getting things loose so far. Its amazing.

So far all the pants Ive gotten I either need to gain alot or lose weight to fit. Going broke shipping from overseas. :mad:

Well I installed the new HT leeds and ran it. So good so far. Next up replacing exhaust gaskets which have some leaks and are all rusted. All the studs and nuts will need to be replaced, so get ready for the next batch of silly questions. :red:

Not sure the date of the leeds, but the rubber is soft and new looking. They were sealed in airtight plastic.

-Chris

OK. Thanks. Saves a bit of $$ also.

I have a set of NOS HT leeds that I'm putting on the ferret, but both are the 4,5,6 leeds. Can I flip the one upside down to use as the 1,2,3 leeds? Flipping it upside down makes the inside wire length correct in the distributer cap. ie the short wire is the #2, the longer wire is #3 and then the #1 wire.

???

Thanks-Chris

1965 Ferret Mk 2/3

00 EC 55

Thanks evryone for the info. I removed the wires from the cap by sliding dental floss under the wire so I could pull it up where the pin post is. :-D

Essential reading from Clive then..... http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf

I found this yesterday and printed it out.

The posts in my distributor cap some seem like the rotor arm was rubbing them, so they have a gouge in them. Is that normal or should it be replaced? I might just go ahead and connect the HT leads and check out if it runs any different and then replace the points.

Never worked on a distributor before, so forgive all the dumb questions I'll be asking. I'm learning.

Installed a new set of plugs in the ferret. Gapped for .015. I also have a set of NOS HT leads that I'm replacing the old cruddy ones with. Also got 2 new sets of points. The HT leads seems pretty straight forward I think. Cut the wires to the proper length and install on the pins. The old ones seemed to have a type of resin/glue on the ends?? Do I just push the new wires on the pin or do I make a samll hole in the wire then press it on the pin?

The rotor arm seems really dirty and coroded. Do I need a new one or can it just be cleaned up? What about the inside of the rotor cap? File it clean?

On the points can I just replace the old with the new or will I have to then fool around with the timing?

Thanks -Chris

1965 Mk 2/3 Ferret

00 EC 55