ruggyjohn

thanks for that ron, will email them.

need some stencils for my scammell, whats happened to axholme signs at the moment, or is there anybody else out there that can supply them.

new mudguards fitted and corner markers made, pics of roof where it terminates above windscreen for a member on here for reference, dont know if its correct but it looks ok.

Looks smashing..........is that red derv in that container? I hope not, that makes it smoke...........always cleaner on white.:-)

red and white diesel the same other than the die, tractors dont smoke.

got a problem with the brakes on my t, every 3rd or 4th time of use the brakes wont release on the rear axles, it takes about 30 secs for them to release, not sure the relay valve is original, it had the problem when I bought it and i replaced the relay valve with a like for like new one but the problem remains the same, anybody got any pics or part numbers for the correct valve.

looking good, a lot of hard work gone in to cleaning that chassis

Hi John,

Were the side panels made off of templates or drawings . I only need one. Would the local firm be able to make 1 from there records or would I need to make a template?

I can have one made for you and use mine as a template, which side do you need as they are not the same. john

hi richard, cab floor was boarded in keruin half lap, its the stuff used on commercial vehicle floors, ie trailers and flat beds, its aprox 28mm thick by about 140mm wide, i will leave mine unpainted because its really nice timber,its had 2 coates of sealer.

hi edd, winch rope came of ebay, bought a nearly full drum and got 2 full lengths of rope of for my pioneer and a friend who has 3 pioneers, there is some cable left over but not the whole 440 feet you need for the pioneer, i would estimate about 200 feet left from memory but would need to check that.

Engine side panels made by a local company, do not come with the spring catches and cost £120.00 each.

Looking for the following parts/ advice for my new Scammell Pioneer project:

 

Front tow hook

Front winch fair lead

Front wings/mudguards (does anyone make new ones?)

Windscreen metal chanel

4x tyres

cover for the electrical box on the passenger side bulkhead

Drawings for the track storage shelf under drivers side cab

drawings/ cutting list for rear body/ woodwork

period recovery equipment.

 

Thanks

vintage wings and radiators manchester will make you a pair of new front wings,i have some other stuff on your list, if your not too far to travel come and have a look at mine, can give you some advice. john

Wheels now on, had a problem with the fuel filters, somebody in the past has done away with the connecting pipes between the two making one permanently redundant, have now fitted a new modern filter with sediment bowl, it won't please the rivet counters but will be a better and more reliable system, glass going in the windscreens today and more wiring and hopefully a start of the engine in the chassis, 1st time in 6 years.

my plan with the skelly was to drop the outriggers down to the bottom of the chassis rail which would make the tank sit lower then weld a channel section onto each side (although it would still sit ok wthout them). i'd also thought about supporting the weight between the belly of the tank and the top of the chassis rails.

 

another advantage of having a tank is they are agile and can go where other loads can't, infact it can pretty much go on any trailer if you get a big enough run up at it

the run up is not the problem, its having b*lls big enough to attempt it, loaded a lot of stuff up steep ramps its not a good experience.

ERF with a sleeper cab, a cummins engine and a twin splitter and life does not get a lot better.....

yes it does paul, a jake on the cummins !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've just rebuilt a Stoewer Type 40 steering box as it had similar issues, a local machine shop machined the shaft and housing to accept a modern bearing thats available off the shelf, worked a treat.[

 

was it a taper bearing to start with on the bottom of the column to take the side loading.

looks great, keep up the good work

In a few places, the chassis on my AEC O854 Coles Crane is heavily rusted/wasted. I have decided that as there are not too many spare chassis about, my only real option is to build the wasted areas up with weld. I am not too worried about this as the Crane has a massive sub frame and there is not too much stress on the chassis where I am welding it. What are the 'forums' views on this? also what are peoples thought on cutting bit out of the chassis and welding replacement sections in. This is not something I intend to do, i just want to know peoples views.

Cheers Dan

best welded with mig as the chassis is not mild steel hence the advice if stick welding to use low hydrogen rods, if joining two sections then a decent fillet needs to be ground out and a plate bolted on the inside covering the join, some say the chassis should be cut at 45 degrees to make the join stronger, as for filling deep pits weld them up and grind of, try not to put too much heat in to any specific area so as to reduce the chance of distorting the chassis, if the pit is deep fill the bottom and move on to another and then come back to it when its cooled a little.

forgot to mention the inner race is machined in to the steering shaft so cannot be replaced.

Keep thinking positive, it'll turn better with a new bearing (LOL!) . Looks like a standard item, was it difficult to get a new one?

1st bearing place said no chance so went to another who said they could get the race but the outer cup was not made anymore, found some old stock in Australia , the nearest he could find size wise was 9 thou too big so getting a price to have them ground down