Tony Lawrence

An expensive lesson learnt... and a b********** to fit.

Correct Brammer belt fitted. One can see why the newer type had the small T bar joining lugs. They are so much easier to join

And WHY aren't they then?................................

The infallible Mr. Corden has boobed - there are no screws, only nuts and bolts. I think that I am the only one with a screw loose!

????????????? it is fitted with the wide section uppermost

Tony,I was joking,with it possibly having to come from the Antipodes. .......and some fell on stony ground !

David.

Another Friday afternoon senior moment on my behalf!!

Thank-you Richard for adding to my costs.

.....and saved you from fitting it upside down !

????????????? it is fitted with the wide section uppermost

How much? :wow: Still, I suppose that is just the price of half a horse re-shoe......

 

I've just found this site http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/B-Section-Brammer-Type-Link-Belting.html

and bitten the bullet. Once you know the terminology it's easy. Putting riveted belt into Google does not bring this up but type Brammal belt in and bingo!

Thank-you Richard for adding to my costs.

Hi Tony,

I doubt paint will stay on that belt, I much prefer the original black Brammer belt. Looks like it is still available, see here,

http://www.fdoconnor.com.au/en_brammer-belting,223.html unfortunately, the supplier is not in UK.

 

regards, Richard

Yes Richard, it looks better but with the associated costs from Australia I think that it would be the straw that broke my back (if Mrs. L does not do that for me!!). I think having a tin of black paint with me to touch up occasionally will be cheaper. The Nutlink belt set me back nearly £50!!

Tony, had you not thought about Dying the belt black instead of painting it? :-)

 

Those HT leads. Were they meant to be yellow originally? I would have thought there was only one colour available

Then. Black?..........You can still obtain copper core HT lead by the foot. Instead of that Horrible Carbon core stuff!

 

Just my thoughts on this magnificent restoration job. You are undertaking! :thumbsup:

I don't think that dye would take to the type of plasticised material the belt is made of. As for the HT leads, they were the original yellow ones that came with the trailer, suitably cleaned. The leads on the spare distributor were also yellow so I will keep them that way for the moment.

Looking good Tony!

 

Is the orange belt rivited as well, or is it a plain belt?

When it comes to colouring.....maybe some flexible paint is an option....like the ones used by the RC car guys. I am sure you know which Japanese modelling firm sells those

 

 

Alex

The new belt (Nutlink) is adjusted to length with small moveable metal pegs so it is now fitted. I have painted it but I fear that the movement will make some of the paint flake off as the belt is made of flexible material that even the polycarbonate paint to which you refer will not cope with.

Only the two electrical cables for the stop button to fit now, fill the cooling system and wait for a less damp day...fingers crossed!

never heard of this model before, looks like a Churchill with 5 turrets? since it was originally designed in 1930 you have to wonder whop copied who on the wheels and running gear?

 

https://www.rt.com/in-motion/329611-t35-tank-recreation-russia/

The T35 was of the period of multi-turreted tank design - several were encountered by the Germans when they invaded Russia in 1941 but most were destroyed after they broke down.

The T28 was another smaller Russian multi turret design of which, I believe , there are one or two preserved. The Germans had their own multi-turret design, the PzKpfw NbFz V which was used in the invasion of Norway in 1940 and the British toyed with the idea of "land battleships" as well in the 1920-30's.

The saga progresses - I managed to get the broken pulley brazed and so I then set about sorting out a more suitable V belt. With hindsight I believe the old belt that I measured up was oversized with regards to width and depth and so after a few abortive attempts I have fitted what appears to be a better belt that is 17mm and an internal length of 1219mm (7/16th" and 47 3/4" imperial)

Having got this sorted the riveted fan belt decided to break - it looked fairly tatty and was bound to go soon. I have found a modern equivalent on the internet and am waiting for it to arrive. The only problem is that it might be orange in colour so I will look at painting it black with an acrylic spray.

The carburettor has been cleaned as has the air filter (very good condition filter) and has now been assembled on the manifold and appropriate linkages/cables attached.

I am now only waiting for the riveted belt and to fit the electric wires to the stop button before asking a few nice people to come around to try and start the engine. Not at the moment however, as it is b***** cold in the garage.

A slight Christmas setback. I took the V belt off to adjust the governor as it was not quite aligned correctly. A quick five minute job but when I was trying to refit the V belt I managed to break the side of the pulley.

I now have to wait until the New Year to get someone to hopefully braze the pieces back together. It appears to be cast iron so brazing appears to be the way to go (unless someone knows differently)

We fitted the engine back on the trailer today. It went surprisingly easily - we remembered to fit the fan belt before fastening the engine bolts (only three). The compressor drive belts were fed over the compressor flywheel and everything tightened. To my relief the starting handle brackets guided the handle straight to the boss on the crank pulley and all turned over. However it the engine is very tight and should prove a bit of an effort when we come to try and start it. I dismantled the carburettor from the manifold and having cleaned it up and painted it with high temperature black fitted it to the engine along with the oil pipes going to the radiator oil cooler and an air pipe from the compressor to the governor.

I think that will probably be it until the New Year as I am working every day up to Christmas.

Last week we took the engine off the stand and turned it round to enable the flywheel and front engine casting and mount to be fitted. Before we did that there was the matter of fitting a new fan belt which was a bit of a struggle as the new belt was very tight but by knocking it into the pulley grooves and brute force we managed.

I have now fitted the flywheel and casting - again a very precise sequence of events beginning with the engine back plate, followed by the flywheel and then the flywheel bearing. |This bearing had to be fitted to the mount casting before the casting was fitted to the back plate, not forgetting to put the two large compressor drive belts in place before attaching the casting. In order to change these belts the engine would have to be removed!

Anyway, all is now in place and the next step is to fit the engine onto the trailer, remembering to fit the radiator fan blade belt over it's pulley before tightening down.

A job for next weekend.

I have passed this thread onto James Baxter who dealt with it all on behalf of IMPS when it first raised it's ugly head and he is going to look into it - I will report any findings.

James has been in touch with his contacts and here is the result.......

I have been in correspondencewith the Export Control Office (ECO) regarding their email to some military vehicleowners, and they have issued the below guidance note for MV owners who havereceived the email:

“The Export Control Organisation introduced a requirementfor annual Open General Export Licence returns in 2014. This requirement mainlyconcerns the trading activity of companies and was introduced to providegreater levels of transparency data about usage of open licences. Someindividuals might be impacted by the reporting requirement and might havereceived an email from the ECO depending on which exact licence they hold. Afull list and guidance about how to complete a return is available at https://www.spire.bis.gov.uk/docs/OpenLicenceReturnsGuidance.pdf.If you hold the OGEL (Historic Military Vehicles and Artillery Pieces) thenthere is NO requirement to provide an annual return. However if you hold theOGEL (Historic Military Goods) or the OGEL (Military Surplus Vehicles) or anyother relevant licence then you will be required to complete a return (even a‘nil return’). The requirement applies, even if you have surrendered a relevantlicence within the reporting year. This runs from January to December and westrongly advise any required returns are completed in January 2016.

If you have any questions about open licensing returnsthen please contact the ECO Helpline for further advice: eco.help@bis.gsi.gov.ukor telephone: 020 7215 4594.

We also strongly advise that members sign up to theNotice to Exporters, http://blogs.bis.gov.uk/exportcontrol/, toensure they are made aware in future of any changes to their licence(s).”

In a nutshell, those MV ownerswho have the OGEL (Historic Military Vehicles and Artillery) then there is norequirement to submit a return, and they will not receive the email. If,however, they have registered for a different OGEL, such as OGEL (HistoricMilitary Goods) or the OGEL (Military Surplus Vehicles) then they will havereceived the email request for a return. I have checked with the ECO onthe OGEL number quoted by Ron on HMVF and it is for OGEL (Historic MilitaryGoods), hence he received the email. I have also checked with the ECO ontwo others people who have received the email and they also have the OGEL (Historic Military Goods). I suggest thatanyone who has received the eco/spire email they check the type of OGEL theyhold and if it is not OGEL (Historic Military Vehicles and Artillery Pieces)then, if they and their vehicles comply with the terms of this OGEL, they canceltheir existing OGEL and take out the OGEL (Historic Military Vehicles andArtillery Pieces).

I assume all are available from Dorking Models !

Special price to you....20% added!!!

Yes Tim,

 

Thought of someone who might like it when I spotted it

 

Must be worth it weight in gold to the right person......just checking gold price on London Metals Exchange :cool2:

 

 

QUOTE=Great War truck;454995]Crikey John. That is an amazing find.

Oh dear - your ideas of making a fortune have gone up in smoke again! Hopefully you hadn't promised Mrs. Corden a share of the profits.

Does anybody know anything about this?

http://pegasusbridgethemovie.com/

Interesting video on You Tube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have passed this thread onto James Baxter who dealt with it all on behalf of IMPS when it first raised it's ugly head and he is going to look into it - I will report any findings.

Would you like to borrow a suitable torque wrench?

yes please, bring it when you help me take the engine off the stand

I knew it was going too smoothly. I put the timing chain cover back on and slid on the inner pulley and with great difficulty bolted the outer one on. I then noticed that something was moving around behind the inner pulley when I turned the engine over. Off comes the outer and then the inner pulleys to expose the fact that the timing cover oil seal case had come adrift from the timing chain cover. It must have originally been brazed or soldered. Luckily I was taking the cylinder head to be skimmed (a good piece of advice from Richard F. as 6 thou was removed) and the guy told me about a small sheet metal engineering workshop nearby and for a tenner they spot welded the items back together.

I replaced the oil seal which appeared to have swollen a little as it was a very tight fit replacing the inner pulley but now all is together. Richard also gave me some advice on cylinder head torque settings as in the Austin 10 manual it just says tighten down the head nuts in the quoted sequence - no mention of torque. In the end however I did just that as my torque wrench did not appear to go down as low as 35ft lbs. so I just tightened them in sequence until stiff. They will have to be retightened anyway if we actually get the engine running.

The next stage is clean up the plate and flywheel for fitting as well as reassembling the water pump and then take the engine off the stand and position it so that the other end with the flywheel and pulley for the compressor belts can be fitted.

The distributor/magneto has just been overhauled by my friend Derek who stripped it and combined the best bits of it and my spare that came with the trailer. Interestingly the spare has a different length shaft. I now have an all singing/all dancing distributor/magneto that appears to be as good as the day it was manufactured. I also have a spare that still works that I will sell on.

I

In the meantime I am still stripping and painting the engine and accessories.

I have now taken the engine to pieces - leaving all the workings such as pistons, crank. etc untouched as all seems very clean. The oil in the sump was black but smooth with no foreign bodies in it so I just took the oil pump filter off and cleaned it. Again all nuts and bolts undid with no problem but I had a bit of a struggle with the distributor that was very tight in its sleeve. I drilled a couple of indents on the distributor casing and engine block to mark the position for reassembly and hopefully not disturbing the timing. The old paint came off reasonably OK. I am leaving the cylinder head on until I have finished the block so that paint particles do not get near the piston and valve bores and seats. That will come off and be cleaned up away from the engine. Interestingly there appear to be two engine numbers stamped..32018 on a flat over the timing chain and 3578 on a flat in the middle of the block just under the head in the centre on the distributor side.

Does anyone know what they refer to? It would be nice to find the build date of the engine.

Next to clean the distributor and hopefully get it and my spare tested to make sure the magneto is all OK.

Thanks for that, images don't seem to work though.

Google 'airborne jeep horn' images.

I have recently bought my first HMV (1942 Ford GPW). I want to convert it to British Airborne specifications.

 

Most of it is fairly simple, but the one thing I am lost on is the conversion of the steering wheel.

 

I have the part to convert the standard steering wheel to a 'removable' one. But I have no idea how to disconnect the horn which is situated in the centre of the original steering wheel.

 

I know the horn has to be relocated to either the side of the steering column or to the dash board, again, I'm clueless!

 

Any words of advice would be welcome.

 

Cheers,

 

Andy.

Disconnect the horn wire from the junction block and rewire it to the new horn button (a pre-war car horn button ) positioned on the dash to the L/H side of the steering column. This is where I found the mounting screw holes on my ex-airborne jeep. The contacts within the steering shaft/tube are redundant with the fitting of the quick release wheel and so it is a simple circuit with the horn button making and breaking the circuit.

These images are not of my jeep but illustrate the switch and position.