BenHawkins

Distributor shaft and fibre tube to carry HT leads.

Throttle control linkages.

Coolant pipes, inlet and outlet from pump and return from rear cylinder to the radiator. Unfortunately the water pump and drive gear is missing so I will need to do a little more research on that one.

Full set of valve caps, dual spark plugs as commonly found of fire service engines.

The coolant bridging pieces. A total of five are required; there are only three usable ones and one broken one. However the pattern and core box should be fairly easy with something to copy.

Oil tank, pipes etc. Once again the brackets seem to match the holes in the chassis.

Some of the tubs of fasteners

Clutch thrust bearing and spring.

Three part flywheel and inverted cone clutch.

Fan, fan belt, pulley and drive clutch.

Full complement of 20 piston rings.

Gudgeon pins. Their box has been a bit damp at some point.

Exhaust manifold and a section of exhaust pipe. One of the joining sections has a slight crack but should be repairable. The asbestos rope has now been bagged ready for disposal.

Starting handle, shaft and clutch.

Clutch release mechanism. This seems to match the holes in my chassis and the early general arrangement drawings. Hopefully I will discover how it works eventually

Sorry for the delay in responding, I was alerted to the engine post whilst at Beaulieu on Saturday. As soon as we were home I phoned Ken to see when he was available.

We went to see the engine at 3PM today, armed with an envelope stuffed with cash and I now have a similar photo, just this one at my house!

I would like to thank Ken and Hedd for all their help with this one. I could not be more happy with the purchase!

The safest way to look after it seemed to be to refit the mounting rails and screw some off cuts of wood from the house build to them so the engine no longer had to sit on its sump. The crankcase has the sump, timing gears, crank & cam shafts still fitted.

This shows the inlet manifold and carburettor arrangement. Complete with a bronze section to allow manifold heating.

my latest acquisition:

As you may have guessed I also love early machine tools. If I had more space I would certainly acquire a selection.

Sorry for the lack of updates, we have taken a short holiday that included a trip to the Great Dorset Steam Fair.

However I still have some progress on one item from before we left. If you remember, I had to split the transmission brake hub nut to get the gearbox apart. I thought I had damaged the thread on the output shaft but I found a Coventry die chaser of the correct pitch and cleaned it up by hand. As it turned out it was actually just rust left in the thread.

Making the hexagonal blank for the nut is in a previous post; I was fairly confident I would not find a new old stock 1-5/16x16tpi Whitworth form slotted half nut. I drilled then bored the nut blank out to the correct diameter followed by cutting the thread using a single point tool. The photo shows me checking the finished thread fits the shaft.

Then it was just a case of adding the slots for the split pin.

nice to see a rollorbox wasn`t involved

It is certainly not a flimsy component. Even if there was some deflection in the work piece the diameter of the arm between the taper and the socket is not critical.

Hopefully we will have some more information on the engine in the next week but in anticipation I added the bonnet rear rest to my latest laser cutting order.

When certain what engine is being fitted there are a number of jobs like this that can be completed!

The transmission brake hub did not come with the clamps for the universal joint bushes. After machining two blocks to the same size I mounted them together in a machine vice, found the centre and drilled a pilot hole. I then bored the hole out to just short of 1.250" (the diameter of the bushes) using a boring head.

It was then easy to clamp the blocks up on a suitable piece of steel and turn the diameters.

After a few further adjustments to the shape using the milling machine and a file I fitted them to the transmission brake hub and reamed through the holes to clean up the corroded surfaces and open up the clamps to the finished size.

I tilted the head on a milling machine and used a woodruff cutter to add the internal oil groove. The positioning and depth did not need to be incredibly accurate so I just returned the table height to the same zero point each time, moved the cutter until it just touched then moved a further 1/16". Each time I turned/swapped the block I lined it up with the side of the vice jaws.

Ready to fit.

I had a family event this weekend so there is a little less progress than usual but I have spent some money on an order of steel for the universal joint pins and bushes (this one and the matching one for the 1908) and some steel for the body.

More money spent on a batch of laser cutting. These are parts for wing brackets and various body fittings, some of which I have already attacked with the angle grinder.

Add that to the order for the timber to construct the bed and I have certainly exhausted my salary for the month!

I machined a block of steel, putting flats the correct distance apart, then drilled and tapped M8 on the centre line. Using a Dial Test Indicator I centred the block on the rotary table.

Followed by machining the radius with an end mill.

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I drilled and countersunk the lubrication hole then used some masking tape to give the location to clamp the blocks on the rotary table so I could machine the curved lubrication grooves with a 1/8" ball nose slot drill.

Turning the blocks around to machine the second groove.

After putting the vice on the milling machine and centring on the block I drilled out the counter-bored hole (used for fitting to the jig), then opened the hole up to 1-1/8" using the boring head.

The final job will be to machine the internal lubrication grooves.

I have been a bit distracted this week but still managed to make a little progress.

The universal joint jaw pattern has had a bit of filler and another couple of coats of primer. It needs a little more sanding before I give it a coat of pattern paint.

I won a 5/16 keyway broach on an internet auction so decided to use this to put the keyway in the gear selector drop arm. To start with I had to make a slotted bush from a bar end of steel

Then use the press to force the broach through, each time adding a shim until the correct depth was achieved.

I files a notch in the wings and their brackets and filed three of the corners from the square on some coach bolts to properly fit the mudguards.

Fitting the mudguards allowed me to check the width against my body drawings and the original photo. I have sent off the cutting list for the bed to a timber merchant. The cab will be ordered later as I don't think I have the space to do them both at once.

As you should now end up with 7 blocks the only sensible thing to do is to build up a W & P six.:nut:

There is far more potential to build the three cylinder blocks up into something else if I have examples of all the other parts to copy.

Of course I would really need a surviving 6 cylinder chassis as well.

Thanks to Hedd I have now been in contact with the owner; he is getting all the parts into one place and then I can go to see what it there.

Exciting times for the project and we hope to have more information in a couple of weeks.

Ben.

 

A friend of mine has come across this engine. Looks like a White & Poppe to me. These are old pics, it is currently in pieces. Ex fire pump apparently.

 

What bore & stroke do you need? Ill get him to measure up

 

 

Wow, I really did not think one of these would ever turn up. The wonders of the internet!

That certainly looks like the correct White and Poppe engine. My lorry originally had the 110mm bore, 130mm stroke but to be honest any of the 130mm stroke engines would be ideal.

It even appears to have all of the early clutch release mechanism, so I now know what that was meant to look like!

It would be truly amazing if we could unite this engine with my chassis.

For the Cardan Shaft Jaw (Part Number 205/6) I decided to start it in two halves rather than cut it after assembly. This began with drawing the profile up in CAD and printing the cross section 1:1 so I could glue it onto some 6mm MDF and cut around with a jigsaw. This also gave me the accurate points to drill for the location pins.

I then took my stacks of MDF and cut 12mm from the middle with a hacksaw.

I could then glue and clamp them to the central profile.

The webs were easily cut, a radius sanded onto them and glued into place.

Then they all had a coat of primer. They will all need a bit more filler and sanding before they are good enough for the foundry.

It is now time to clean the machines down and machine some of the lumps of metal I already have!

The universal joint at the other end of the propshaft (back of the gearbox) is more conventional but another part I am missing. Fortunately the spares book states the part number and the drawing has survived (in the Surrey History Centre).

The drawing states a malleable casting so I think I will get them made in steel. I started by pattern making for the star piece (Part Number 205/3). I used a hole saw to cut a number of discs out of some MDF I had left over from building my house and gluing these into stacks on a 1/4" mandrel to keep them lined up.

After turning the two stacks to diameter I used a hole saw in the mill to cut a section of a circle out of one of the stacks.

Then I was able to glue the two stacks together and counter-bored a socket for a 5/8 boss where the lubricator will fit.

I then cut it half with a hacksaw to make the moulders job easier and fitted three location pins so the two sides line up again.

The final part for the rear universal joint are the bronze sliding blocks. I started by sawing blanks from a piece of square bar.

Then milling them to approximately the correct size.

And added a hole in the middle with a counter-bore so I can clamp them to a jig for milling the outside diameter.

Still plenty of work to do to finish these.

The foundry finished the clutch casting so I have been to pick it up. Another hundred pounds spent to tick a part off the list but there is quite a lot of work involved in machining, then fitting the lining.

I could not drive the rusted remains of the split pin out from the gearbox output shaft. Clamping the shaft to the table of the milling machine I was able to align the drill axis to the split pin, start the hole with a stub drill then drill through with a 4.5mm drill leaving a small amount of the 3/16" split pin and some rust to pick out of the hole. The damaged thread is likely to be slightly more of a challenge to rectify.

I have been around the edge of the mudguards a couple of times with primer just to make sure there is no crevice for water to sit in. After measuring many times and quite a few trial fittings the rear mudguards are now drilled to suit the brackets. The next task will be to modify some 3/8" BSW coach bolts to replace the temporary fasteners.

I machined the central boss for the flywheel pattern and gave it a coat of primer.

Before gluing it into the main pattern, sanding everything down and giving it a coat of paint.

I went up to Manchester on Thursday to collect the newly made mudguards. I had previously made the brackets for the rears so I was able to rest one in place to see how it would look.

I then spent some considerable time getting them fully degreased.

And applied a coat of primer.

I quite like being able to change the speed of the shaper with the VFD. It would work without it straight off the three phase but I would at least need to fit some fuses and a start stop button. Anyway the shaper is turning lumps of metal into swarf again.

As the dividing head was set up on the milling machine I used it to machine a hexagonal blank for the transmission brake hub nut.

Filler was applied to the flywheel pattern.

Followed by sanding and painting. Some discs of MDF have been glued together but still need to be machined to the right shape for the central boss before gluing in place.

We removed the existing flywheel with some difficulty, it seemed quite heavy when I lifted it to the floor so I put it on some bathroom scales (85kg).

The flywheel is too big for my machines but I didn't want that to stop me making the pattern. Using Draft Sight (a free 2D CAD program) I sketched a set of rings and discs that would fit into a standard sheet of 12mm MDF and sent them off to be cut. One week later these arrived.

I made four rods with a 16mm head, 12mm shaft and tapped M6 at the other end to aid assembly and removal of the pattern from the sand. The CNC router was able to put the holes accurately in position so that each ring (gradually getting bigger in outside diameter and smaller on internal diameter) could easily be glued into position.

Once the glue was applied a number of clamps held everything together

I still need to make and glue on a central boss for the clutch bearing and a ring on the back face to accommodate the crankshaft flange before applying filler to smooth out the steps.

I have also pressed the bearing off the gearbox output shaft as I will need to machine out the rusty split pin, tidy up the thread and make a replacement nut (as I had to split the nut to get it off).