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protruck

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Posts posted by protruck

  1. well thanks for that i took the filler plug out before takeing the drain plug out and a pint of yellow/ brown sludge came out the top ive now flushed it out and refilled and greased everything to death but it still cant be pulled out on my own so i think i need to pull all the rope out and back in a few times and see if that gets it all moving other than that is it possable the spring loaded arms that coil the rope be gripping the drum too tightly and stopp it turning ? andy

     

    Hi Andy.

     

    Have you checked the center pin and bushes on the drum. i can't remember if there are greasing points on the bush housings. if you have checked the arms and drive box are ok, this could be the problem.

     

    hope this helps.

     

    Clive

  2. Hi Robert.

     

    Check fuse F8 - (30amp) in the fuse box ( i think this is the correct fuse. grey matter is not getting any younger :banghead:). make sure the blades on the fuse are not corroded or black.

    if they are. clean them up with some fine sand paper and try it again. i have found this problem on some fords with faults on the centrol locking.

     

    Hope this helps & works.

     

    rdgs

     

    Clive

  3. Hi Nick.

     

    This is the same tool that is used on the Leyland T45 290bhp and scammell S24 350 big Cam,and 400 NTE cummins engines. If you need any info give me a shout as i have some info on it from one of my Big Cam engine manuals. just PM me your home email and i'll fire it over to you. the only thing that looks like is missing in that kit is the angled adaptor for the dial gauge but i'm sure i have a spare in my kit in the van.

     

    The cummins Number for the kit on ebay is 3375842 if you are going to buy it check with Cummins at wellingbourgh that this is the correct kit for the engine as there are 5 or 6 different ones with different attachments in the kit.

     

    Hope this helps

     

    Clive

  4. Hi Kevin.

     

    Will look a nice truck when she's finished, it's a shame that it appears to have lost some of

    it's ground clearence between 2nd and 3rd axles due to the lower body work. maybe also on

    the rear axle articculation on the rear body. it all depends on how much, if ever off road work

    she will do.

    It will look impressive when she's completed.

     

    Thanks for posting the pics.

     

    Clive

  5. Andy.

     

    If it is just the outer bearing in a front housing you may be lucky and not have to bleed the system. if you can remove it without dis conecting the hoses and replace the bearing while hose are still conected.

     

    Its so much easyer working on trucks than cars. I have got to change two drive shaft gaters and a gearbox oil cooler hose on my jeep tomorrow.

    more snow on its way.

     

     

    Clive

  6. I have a power steering pump to replace on my better halfs car (Toyota Starlet). We would have liked to replace the pump with a new one or an exchange one but the price was a bit extreme at £250 (with an exchange of the old pump if they could find one). So I've bought a used one off ebay.

     

    A bearing has gone in the pump and its stopped working and its making a noise on start up plus it has those nice rust marks on the belt of a bearing going pear shaped.

     

    My question is should I replace the fluids in the system? Would the system need bleeding?

     

    Hi Andy.

     

    If it is the outer bearing closest to the pulley you maybe ok. ( not directly lubed by pump ) sitting in a seperate

    front housing from main pump body.

     

    If it is an internal bearing then maybe the following may help.

     

    First of all i would replace the bearing in the pump. on doing so, check to make sure all of the old bearing is complete when you remove it, and that it has not broken up.

    if it has broken up there is a possibility that some debris might have made it's way into the steering rack.( lets hope not ). There is sometimes a mesh filter on the outlet of the pump that stops any larger parts going round the system. if this is the case then it would be a good idea to change the oil.

     

    When you have changed the pump and refilled the system with oil. jack the front of the vehicle of the ground, start vehicle and turn the steering from lock to lock slowly. once you have done this a couple of times. ( check oil level ) then turn and hold the steering hard on left and the right hand lock for 10 secounds each side and this should remove any air in the system by getting the presure relef valve in the pump to work.

     

    Recheck steering fluid level.

     

    hope this is of some help.

     

    rdgs

     

    Clive

  7. Hi Robin.

     

    If they are being stored in a seperate room or a cabinet make sure you have plenty of

    ventilation. for the acid fumes not to build up. i can remember when i was working a

    scammells them having an explosion in the battery room because or the build up of gases

    with the batteries being charge and not being correctly ventilated.

     

    hope this helps.

     

    Clive

  8. Hi John.

     

    Is this the start pilot that is in the small airasol tins with the small plastic bottle resovoir on the front of the vehicle.

    iF so, a leyland part no would be good, and i can look at my suppliers list. i'm the same i've not bought this for years.

     

    rdgs

     

    clive

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