ArtistsRifles

I thought HGV's and PSV's remained unchanged as requiring an annual MOT in the proposals out today. Only only Vehicles of Historic Interest (cars/motorbikes etc) were to be exempted. And for these engine swaps should not exceed more than a 15% increase in power output over the OE fitment.

Normally - no. Probably not the answer you were looking for! A low/flat battery will usually cause one or more of the following:

1. Loss of radio code memory - you will need to re-enter the security code when you have it running.
   
2. Loss of seat position memory.
   
3. Loss of setting memory for the windows resulting in xx window not set messages on the display
   
4. Loss of synch between the key fob and car requiring you to re-enter the EKA code in via the drivers door lock.
   

Probably for radio or winterization installation ?

Probably winterization - the radio stuff is the 24v feeds and (on a Series that comes up through the floor behind the drivers seat. then through the bulkhead to the generator control panel, and across the bulk head and through the other side to the shunt box.

Wow they are big, I was going to message you to ask what was happening with these, I'm definitely in the market for one.

 

PT

Funnily enough - I do have just one left. 2 have been sold already and are being collected Sunday. If you are interested PM me for the price and we can sort something out.

Regards,

Neil.

These arrived today!! A bit bigger and definitely a LOT heavier than expected.

Mind if I nick this to post elsewhere Richard??

As we are on the subject, a few weeks ago an overseas friend sent the following, I think it originated in North America:

 

The Electric car boondoggle

 

I always wondered why we never saw a cost analysis on what it actually costs to operate an electric car. Now we know why.

 

 

 

At a neighborhood BBQ I was talking to a neighbor, a BC Hydro executive. I asked him how that renewable thing was doing. He laughed, then got serious. If you really intend to adopt electric vehicles, he pointed out, you had to face certain realities. For example, a home charging system for a Tesla requires 75 amp service.

 

 

 

The average house is equipped with 100 amp service. On our small street (approximately 25 homes), the electrical infrastructure would be unable to carry more than 3 houses with a single Tesla, each. For even half the homes to have electric vehicles, the system would be wildly over-loaded.

 

 

 

This is the elephant in the room with electric vehicles ... Our residential infrastructure cannot bear the load. So as our genius elected officials promote this nonsense, not only are we being urged to buy the damn things and replace our reliable, cheap generating systems with expensive, new windmills and solar cells, but we will also have to renovate our entire delivery system! This latter "investment" will not be revealed until we're so far down this dead-end road that it will be presented with an oops and a shrug.

 

 

 

If you want to argue with a green person over cars that are eco-friendly, just read the following:

 

 

 

Note: If you ARE a green person, read it anyway. Enlightening.

 

 

 

Eric test drove the Chevy Volt at the invitation of General Motors...and he writes...For four days in a row, the fully charged battery lasted only 25 miles before the Volt switched to the reserve gasoline engine. Eric calculated the car got 30 mpg including the 25 miles it ran on the battery. So, the range including the 9-gallon gas tank and the 16 kwh battery is approximately 270 miles.

 

 

 

It will take you 4 1/2 hours to drive 270 miles at 60 mph. Then add 10 hours to charge the battery and you have a total trip time of 14.5 hours. In a typical road trip your average speed (including charging time) would be 20 mph.

 

 

 

According to General Motors, the Volt battery holds 16 kwh of electricity. It takes a full 10 hours to charge a drained battery. The cost for the electricity to charge the Volt is never mentioned so I looked up what I pay for electricity. I pay approximately (it varies with amount used and the seasons) $116 per kwh. 16 kwh x $1.16 per kwh = $18.56 to charge the battery. $18.56 per charge divided by 25 miles = $0.74 per mile to operate the Volt using the battery. Compare this to a similar size car with a gasoline engine that gets only 32 mpg. $3.19 per gallon divided by 32 mpg = $0.10 per mile.

 

 

 

The gasoline powered car costs about $15,000 while the Volt costs $46,000........So the American Government wants loyal Americans not to do the math, but simply pay 3 times as much for a car, that costs more than 7 times as much to run, and takes 3 times longer to drive across the country.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I missed this yesterday when looking at the First Ministers statement, question is what about historic vehicles? The policy is different from Central Government

 

http://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/scotland-to-ban-petrol-and-diesel-car-sales-by-2032/ar-AArlFT2?li=AA8sb7&ocid=ientp

I often wonder if the Krankie lives in the real word. Politics aside there are problems in making such declarations:

• EV's currently cost a lot more than their ICE versions.
  
• Commercial EV's are still very much in the future - and commercials are the biggest polluters. Same goes for buses and coaches.
  
• EV range is still very much a limiting factor. The average now is around 120 miles between needing a recharge. EV's with a greater range go up considerably in cost - currently only TESLA offer a 300 mile+ range version and that is over £90,000 new.
  
• The Grid is already nearing overload due to the closure of coal, oil and gas fired power stations and the lack of performance of the much hyped wind, solar and tidal systems. I've read estimates that it will take 10 years plus of heavy investment in new power stations to get the Grid back up the capacity of a few years ago, never mind what will be required if 90% of motoring goes EV.
  
• Most UK cities have a major problem with charging EV's. The design of them, with multi-tier housing and close cramped streets, make home charging a nightmare and where it is possible then under current technology you would have power cords crossing the street all night long Quite aside from the pedestrian hazards the copper thieves would think Xmas had come. There are plans for wireless charging loops to be installed in streets - again this is at least a decade away - more like two decades
  

So if the Krankie decides to force the issue I suspect she will not be First Minister much longer.......

Neil, I had a similar problem with my lightweight, fuel gauge reading full as soon as the ignition turned on, I also had a strange earth fault on the off side headlight, gave up on the fuel gauge and went for the headlight fault, cleaned all the eart points and re-terminated all the associated earth cables and low and behold both problems disappeared.

 

PT

Cheers mate. It's been suggested that the fault is indeed an earth - but behind the dash - I had the two main instruments out replacing the glass and bezels and the gauge stopped working after that. One of the EMLRA guys said it might be because I have put all the earth terminals onto the speedo clamp bolts and the one affecting the gauge should be on the multi-cluster. I need to check this out but the two bolts holding the front panel on are just spinning, the threaded sections in the body of the instrument panel have come loose. Talk about Murphys law!!

This is an extract from the safety regs of the big UK show:

10 M.P.H. Speed Limit

 

Is applied within the showground. No unauthorised moving of vehicles during events. Drivers are to obey instructions from Officials and their Assistants. No transference of fuels to be carried out. Under section 1, 2 and 3 as amended by the Road Traffic Act of 1991 you could be prosecuted for driving recklessly at this type of event.

 

Tracked Vehicle Movement

 

All movement through the site must be with at least one escort person on foot in front of the vehicle wearing high visibility attire. The 10 M.P.H. speed limits apply unless you are in the Arena where 25 M.P.H. applies. Do not enter the 20 ft crowd safety zone. All passengers to be seated in appropriate seats, not on vehicle turrets. Under section 1, 2 and 3 as amended by the Road Traffic Act of 1991 you could be prosecuted for driving recklessly at this type of event if it was considered you have endangered the lives of other exhibitors or members of the public.

 

Vehicle Movement

 

Vehicle movement is to be kept to a minimum. No vehicle movement is allowed in the trade stand area on show days between the hours of 8.00am and 6.30pm. There is also no vehicle movement in the pedestrian area at any time, unless part of an organised display pre-agreed with the Organiser. Only persons licensed to drive may operate vehicles. Children may not ride motorcycles, quads, etc. during the show days. All Entrants must abide by this. Emergencies excepted unless pre-arranged with the agreement of the Organisers.

Is this the sort of reference to the RTA the OP was thinking of??

After months of behaving itself the time came in July for both the MoT and the tax renewal. I started prepping her for the MoT and found that the washer jets weren't working. Cue another Landie Saga. :-)

Disconnected the out pipe from the pump and switched the washers on - just got a bubbly froth from the pump outlet. OK - pump is fooked. so I got a new HD pump and fitted that. Tried it with the pipe off and got a 1m jet up in the air. Reconnected the pipe and tried again - and got a trickle from the passenger side but nothing from the drivers. Tried everything but could not get the drivrs side to clear so I wound up cutting the nozzle off then drilling the remains out. A master piece of engineering design means the nut securing the jet is totally obscured by the drivers demister vent - and the only way to remove that is to totally dismantle the dash Not a viable job hence the cutting off of the vent. Then ordered a pair of Defender style plastic jets. Went to fit them and found the plastic pipe size was different - the new jets were slightly bigger. 30 minutes of soaking in boiling water solved that and with the jets bolted on tried again - impressive results.

Got her up for an MoT yesterday and she passed with flying colours - no advisories at all. Did get quite a spectacular "F*CK" from the tester when he used the washers - the jets apparently were rather stronger than he was expecting from a Series.

Today I went to tax the old girl and found that (a) the V11 renewal letter had expired and (b) I couldn't find the new Red V5C. Turned the front room over twice and no sign so it was on the blower to the DVLA to order a replacement one (£25.00). I was quite impressed with the service - once you got past the "press 1 for..." business.

Young lady I spoke to sorted the replacement V5 promptly and efficiently. Then I asked if I could renew the tax... I think it must be a standard spiel she had to go through about how there'd been a gap between the tax due date of July and now and did I realise I could be liable to a fine of X times the annual VED. Then I think she read the screen and saw the Historic class (£0.00 VED) and just burst into laughter. Minute or so later the old girl is all legal again.

Liverpool already ceased there's about 18 months ago

But for rather different reasons..... Wonder if they will sell the DUKW's off?? If so - how much for? - and more importantly, how much to junk the superstructures and return to original condition?

When you go to events, you must have read the information to exhibitors, also signed the declaration that you have read these and have insurance for your vehicle and correct licence.

At one of the big events in the calendar, there is this in the exhibitors handout;

"under Sections 1,2 and 3 as amended by the Road Traffic Act of 1991 you could be prosecuted for driving recklessly at this type of event if it was considered you endangered lives of other exhibitors or members of the public"

And yet the issue of little kids on quads etc. persists to this day....

It is difficult to judge from photos, but assuming the vice darkens a bit once it loses its newness that would seem the better colour. I've just bought 5lts of so called DBG from fleebay, only to find it is a completely different shade to previous paint I've used. Suppose it is down to the person mixing the colour and how accurate they are eith the measuring

It's a bummer when that happens - I know one instance where what was supposedly IRR green to be more of a mint green.....

At the moment the vice has one coat of the DBG over bondaprimer so I'll give it a second coat next time I am over there and then see how it goes in the sunlight. No where near ready to paint the cab yet so no rush....

I second that Clive.

Neil,

The left hand photo looks more like BS298 (British) Olive Drab ...in semi-matt. When we had vehicles in service in DBG, you will notice in a line of vehicles, the difference due to age of paint finish, if sprayed or brushed, etc. DBG is known to change tone after a while. Also it depends on what you thin the paint with and to what degree.

 

Of course your two photos might have been taken in different levels of light too.

Good point on the light Clive. Mine was taken in bright sunshine on Saturday, best I can say for the other is its in daylight :-) The vice one (mine) only has 1 coat of FBG over bonda primer - which might make a difference.

Question time - which is the correct shade for Deep Bronze Green (BS381 224) as found on British Army vehicles of the Sixties, early Seventies - the one on the left of the photo or the one on the right??

Asked the same question on the RCT goup over on FaceBook and there are 12 votes for the darker Left-hand one, 16 votes for the vice one (and 4 saying both!!)

I have a drill round if you want one.

PM sent Chris

Trying to make some spelling changes to a post tonight and when I click on "save" I keep getting the following error message:

[h=2]vBulletin Message[/h]

1. The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 5 characters.
   

anybody know why this is?? (and yes there ARE more than 5 characters in the original post)

Another half a days work - had to wait in because the daughter Mk 1 had her driving test at 09:00 - she passed!

But still progress. I was bugged by those winders not working so took them out again. The cranked arms were definitely catching so with the help of a chap from the racing shed opposite we got the arms straightened out. I think if I were using the long arms of the originals it would not be a problem however changing the arms over would be a nightmare and a cut and shut welding job was out due to a lock of a welder. So any way - I refitted the winder with the straightened arms and they work a lot better. Going down is no longer a problem. Coming up one has to thump the glass with a fist to get over the "hump" as it were.

Basically the bottom channels for the windows have "blown" due to corrosion and need total replacing - which was out of my ability at the moment.

Inner door skins are now on - I got some stainless steel screws same size as the originals but they are VERY loose in the holes so I am thinking I will replace them with pop rivets - or the next size up screw.

Don't look too bad though.... I had to give the insides of the doors a touch up of DBG from where the winders were fitted so I used the remains to do the front vice to get a feel for the colour externally fitted.

So what's the group thought - to light or is it right???

There ain't no rocket !

Yeah - I realise that Bob - in my defence it had been a long day involving me almost blowing myself up in a UAZ engine bay. So:

*** WANTED ***

Complete monopod for a British army L14A1 Carl Gustav launcher and also a set of grips - images can be see at http://www.crusader80.co.uk/armour.html

I have an Israeli model with no monopod and I think the grips are different.

*** WANTED ***

Complete monopod for a British army L14A1 Carl Gustav rocket launcher and also a set of grips - images can be see at http://www.crusader80.co.uk/armour.html

I have an Israeli model with no monopod and I think the grips are different.

Original jack handle was in 2 pieces if I recall correctly - trick in getting a wheel on was to take each piece and put it under the wheel either side of the contact point and lift on them. If solo then push on with your head, if with a co-driver he pushed the wheel on, and then whack a couple of wheel nuts on 2 or 3 turns. If you didn't have the right jack and jack handle (don't ask!!) then the pick axe helve and shovel handle could be used the same way.

Thanks Neil, problem is, if engine won't start, how do you get the thing somewhere to read the codes? :mad:

Most will come out in this case Tony. Takes about 10 minutes to set up and read so figure on a half hours bill.

Sneaked off yesterday afternoon to have a faff about with it. Found some rust on the osr wheel arch by the bottom of the door, rear valence has detached behind the wheels both sides, and a broken tailgate strap. Spent a while playing a game of 'dashboard says',so bit by bit went though and...

reverse light bulb

fog light bulb

bonnet open switch

washer level

So having got rid of all that I'm down to two messages and two lights. I have an ABS light on when started but goes out as you move off, and the SRS light. The messages are Air Bag Fault and drivers window not set.

Air bag and SRS are I guess the same fault.

Are the headlight wash/wipe part of the mot?

* Light bulbs - change the bulbs - they might be blown or the wrong resistance

* Bonnet open - lift the bonnet and let it drop from about a foot up. If you lower it down all the way to close it and then press it shut this happens constantly.

* Washer level - if there is a full reservoir the sender needs changing.

* ABS Light - mine goes out as soon as the vehicle starts to move. Had to go to the MoT station this year with the official owners hand book to prove this to the tester who wanted to fail it for the light not going out whilst sitting still.

* SRS/AirBag - follow Lowfat's advice on this one.

* Drivers window not set - start the car, lower the drivers window all the way down then immediately raise all the way up. Dash should then beep and display the message "Drivers Window Set".

Price?? What comes with it or is it just the vehicle as in the photo???

Yeah - the Series market does seem to be particularly buoyant right now. Thinking I might have to increase the agreed value on my '73 FFR because its currently at £2500 but looking through sales adds recently a figure of £4,500 seems more apropos.

Good point on BAIV though... Wandered onto their stand last year to look at the Comet they had and almost fainted at the price tag - then had a very nice chap try selling me half-tracks in progressively worse states of disrepair based on how much I told him I was skint and unemployed. To be fair he and his boss did have a laugh with me when I suggested, tongue in cheek, that if they had any vacancies for IT specialists I would then be in the market to buy one - with an employee discount!! :cool2:

<Snipped>

Greatest problem with any 'full' restoration is the Engine, a Napier Sabre. rarer than hens teeth, and even if you did find one in a barn, the CAA would never let you fly with it !

</snipped>

 

Jules

I have to ask - why not? Enough machines are flying on the same era Merlins??