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Everything posted by T8Hants

  1. Thank you Ron, I am beginning to understand now, I have both items present and can see which way round the rod goes, so I can start reassembly. I had something in the back of mind about about a ball bearing, but that was clearly not involved with the 3HW. Thank you very much for your time! I am desperately trying to get the bike ready for the Havenstreet 40's weekend and at the moment, for every one forward its two back. Gareth
  2. I do need help on this one please. My 3HW came without a clutch rod, I was given one that I was told was correct and it has a dimple in the end, which to me suggests it might use a ball bearing to run on as part of the system. So some simple questions, is my clutch rod correct for the bike, should it have a dimple in the end, does it need a ball bearing to operate? At the moment my rebuild is stuck as I can't get an answer to what I thought were simple questions that every Triumph owner would know. Help appreciated..............Gareth
  3. Quick question chaps. Is there a ball bearing placed at one end or the other of the 3HW clutch rod and if so is at the basket end or the operating arm end? The parts manual isn't very clear on the subject.........Thanks. Gareth
  4. My Feb 1945 3HW (matching engine and frame) has an alloy oil pump cover, rather than the pressed steel version, just out of curiosity, when did they introduce the steel cover and when did they return to alloy, - assuming mine is not a post war replacement.? Gareth
  5. I think I have been led up the garden path! After taking my Lucas dynamo to bits yesterday, and not finding anything visibly wrong. Then after getting more or less the right readings for the coil and armature on my multi meter, I thought I would reassemble it and give it a spin. So following the directions of a youtube vid (in Italian), with subtitles, I bridged the two output terminals, connected one lead off the meter to the bridge and the other to the dynamo body, set the meter to 20v and spun the thing up. Result a reading of between 6.7 & 7.4v and apparently a working dynamo, unless I'm wrong again. Moral to this story, if there is a simple test you can do just to confirm an 'expert's' diagnosis, do it first, before you disassemble your unit. Need to change the ball race though. Gareth
  6. Update, I have now checked the disconnected field coil leads. Setting my multi meter to 200 ohms, I get a reading of 4.2 ohms, which I think is slightly high am I right in thinking this is not a good thing? I have also checked the stator, which I think should show a reading of 0.5 - 0.8 ohms, which is what I am seeing. Gareth
  7. Apart from the field coil still being within the dynamo body the rest is dismantled. On the armature I have continuity between the segments themselves, but not between any segment and the armature body. Turning to the field coil, the insulation wrapping looks good, there is continuity between both leads off the the coil. I have just realised that my first test to see if the coil is shorting to the body was invalid, because I had not disconnect the other coil lead that is connected to the dynamo body at the point where the brush lead is also connect. Having disconnected that lead there is no apparent short. As the bike last ran in 1947, I wonder if the magnetism has faded? My mechanic has a good reputation for classic car charging systems, but was slightly unsure on classic bike, he did diagnose correctly that the magneto wasn't working, but we have a guy here on the Island that is very good with those, I just can't find a dynamo man Gareth.
  8. Any Lucas E3H dynamo experts here, I am trying to find out if my field coil or armature has gone open circuit? The dynamo is partially dismantled and by way of a simple test I tried to see if there was continuity from the field coil cable that runs to the terminal in the end cap and the body of the dynamo, which there is. So my questions are, does this indicate failed field coil insulation, or if the test method is not valid, could some kind soul tell me how to test the field coil please. I also tried testing the armature with a simple test that I found on the web of seeing if there is continuity between the copper segments and the steel body of the armature, which there is not, does this imply the the armature is Ok? I was told by a local car mechanic that the dynamo was u/s, but he didn't do repairs and I am very reluctant to trust the unit to the 'gentle' care of either a courier or the postal service, If I can find what is duff, I will replace the parts myself. Thank-you.......Gareth
  9. Thank you Ron, one is now on order from JJ Cables, details confirmed over the phone for lengths etc, £18.00 all in, sorted. Thanks.........Gareth
  10. Although my original front brake cable is sound, I am not sure I want to trust a 75 year old cable for my main stopper. I have the 22" inner with 18" outer, plus adjuster, the rest being the 3/16" rod down to the hub. Is there anyone who makes that type of brake cables with the adjuster built in? Or do I go for the short outer long inner version that does away with the rod section, which do seem to be available? Once again thank you in advance..............Gareth
  11. Thank you Mark, I bought a repro version from ebay, but it doesn't look exactly like yours. However I can now check its dimensions against an original and modify if necessary, I'm much obliged. Gareth
  12. Thanks Mark, thats very useful. A couple of questions, in your upper photo, is that a very neat wear mark,or was there originally a slight lip machined on the outer radius and have you shown both sides? Gareth
  13. Ron I hope you don't mind me bothering you again.  I am getting confusing messages concerning the 3HW oil retaining plate.  I put my enquiry out on another forum, and was told that I don't need the spigotted spacer in fact they could be a disadvantage, as they run the risk of catching the back of the clutch and spinning with it, use the flat one as they were just as good I was told. I know their i.d. is 15/16" and as the clutch shaft is 13/16", that seems to me to be an awful lot of play between shaft and plate.

    There is a chap now selling what looks like the correct plate and I am waiting for him to get back to me with the I.d. of his product (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-PRE-UNIT-OIL-SEALING-PLAT/254056711747 ) 

    I value your opinion and knowledge of the 3HW, and as you had your plate re manufactured I was wondering what i.d. you had it made to?

    Thanks in anticipation.....Gareth

    1. Ron


      Gareth I can't think why the clutch would snag the spigot, surely it would hit the retaining plate first and if anything like that did happen, it must because of  miss-assembly/end float of the main shaft. The one on ebay looks to be a snug fit on the shaft, but I can't compare mine as it's buried behind the clutch. 

      As I said Brian Tillin made mine so he must know the spec. You could ring him on 07786 861697.

      These are the only pix I have on file.  Ron1945529477_3HW046.thumb.jpg.435fc269016d9b4614c25d376f7f3500.jpg957953782_3HW061.thumb.jpg.0cf0ab7f480d084cac216247adf8bfde.jpg

  14. Just a bump on this, I am still trying to find either a spare or get the dimensions to make one. No one out there with a late pressed steel chain case with the clutch out, or is it a non critical part? Gareth again.
  15. Ron, I need to get a dynamo rebuild kit for my 1945  3HW, is there anywhere you would recommend?  I have just had the magneto rebuilt by chap here on the I.W., but dynamos are not his thing.



    1. Ron


      Try Paul in Shaftsbury 01747 852136 mob 07860 828546. Ron

    2. T8Hants


      Thank you, I will give him a try


      Regards Gareth

  16. I had a WRS number painted on my Morris C9/B, I understand it stands for 'War Reserve' and may have something to do with the order in which vehicles were to be sent back into service during an escalating conflict, post 1945. Or so I was led to believe.
  17. Thank you gents, that is a big help. I have just delivered my magneto for a rewind to a chap here on the Island, so progress is being made. Gareth
  18. Hi All When I took my 3HW apart for its major repaint and fettle to get it running at last (35 years waiting) I could remember where every nut and bolt went, now I can't Could some kind soul take pity on an old codger and remind me what and where this bolt and extended nut goes. Thanks.....Gareth
  19. This is the field stand and retaining clips on my Feb 1945 3HW, that had 6 months road use after being sold out of service as unissued war stock. The slight bend in the stand is either a post war mod, or the result of a slight whoops when in use. Hope that helps.....Gareth
  20. Hi all, I am still after a 3HW chaincase oil retainer plate, if there is a spare available, or could anybody give me the maximum thickness of the spacer bush at the center, which apparently prevents the clutch basket from crushing the oil deflection channel on the back of the chaincase. The photo ('borrowed' from another site) illustrates what the plate is supposed to achieve. Flat ones are still available, but they don't have the central spacer bush. Thanks....Gareth
  21. Thanks Ron, I will do the vice check. Heat is no problem my mate has both a gas axe and a forge so we can get it nice and toasty. The stud is 3/8, so may be the pedal pivot. The problem is, I foolishly bought two basket case bikes thirty years ago and although the 3HW was built to about 80% rolling chassis. Three house moves and a divorce meant all the fastenings belonging to it and a rigid 49 BSA B31 became sort of mixed up. Now I am trying to sort them out, as it would be nice to hear the bike run, I never have as yet. Gareth
  22. Merry Christmas to one and all, plus a quick couple of questions. Has my nearside foot rest been damaged and twisted back to a usable position at some time in the past? The line of thing just doesn't look right to me. My next is a bent and partly stripped stud, I can't remember where it goes to find its part number, any ideas chaps? Happy New Year..........Gareth
  23. Thanks for the correction of nationality.
  24. I was given this pair of handed carriers years ago, at the time I was told they were to hold round quart tins for extra petrol and oil and they were ex-military, again the original intention was that would be put on my 3HW. However I have never seen them in photos of the period and there is not a mark or any paint on them to hint of military origin, so my suspicion is, they are a 1930's touring accessory. Any thoughts one way or the other? Thanks..........Gareth
  25. I bought these Dutch (I believe) webbing panniers about 30 years ago to go on my 1945 3HW. This was long before I discovered that the British war-time panniers were made from canvas not webbing, but in all other respects they are identical to the earlier type. My question is did British bikes ever use the same style and would they be Ok for a bike used for home service post-war? I would be interested in any comments and thanks in advance. Gareth
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