pawelcen

Ron, Lex, thanks for your feedback. I will have to change both topics, or joint them into one. I looking for a part of the engine plate front shield F1684. Do you know who makes these parts? Maybe I'll do it myself, it's not very complicated. Do you know how thick this part is made of? Regards Pawel

Hi, I would like to change the original concept of restoring my two bikes. Let me remind you: - the first is from the C5108 order and has the original: frame, front fork, engine, normal (fast) gearbox, oil and fuel tank without panel, rear mudguard with light holder and wheels. - the second has a frame from a later order C6128, a wide ratio gearbox and an original oil tank. The crankcase consists of two different halves. The left one has the engine number from earlier order C5108. Plus I have an original front mudguard, fuel tank with control panel. Second front and rear mudguards and front fork are copies from India. Since the first one is mostly original, I think to make it to the specification as it was produced in 1940, i.e. military green. The original parts would be assembled on this bike. The second would be made as a civilian version in black with chrome elements and a fuel tank with panel controls. The front fork, mudguards from India, would go to him. And the original fuel tank with control panel. I gave up on the idea of making an RAF version. Help me decide, is this a good idea?🤔 Best regards . Pawel

Thanks for the opinion Ron. The glued places are almost virtually invisible. I will think. Pawel

Ron, do you think to leave it as it is? This is the Belzona resin repaired body. I would also prefer to leave it in its original state with a patina. This spacer it is E510. Pawel

Hi, I put the engine together on old bearings. Collars made to the dimensions given by Brian. Many thanks Brian. Everything fits, the shaft turns. 😁 Unfortunately, I have to do another painting. As you can see, I had to remove the previous varnish. Regards from Poland. Pawel

I bought a matte two component clear coat today. I will check and let you know if it is good. You are right about the quality. Even gasoline doesn't smell like old, more like solvent. Thanks for the help. Cheers. Pawel

Hello. Unfortunately, I have to revoke my recommendation for LUXENS heat-resistant varnish. I put the carburetor in modern unleaded fuel for a few minutes - unfortunately it rubs off easily afterwards. What clear coat did you use Ron and what paint did you use, Lex? Best regards. Pawel

Hi, first photos of an almost finished tank. There is only painting left. COVID has slowed down the work very much. Best regards. Pawel

Thanks Ron, you're right. If the left side is fixed by both bearings, the distance and retaining ring then the right side can accommodate thermal expansion. Thanks and regards. Pawel

Thanks Ron, I'll ask Brian. Cheers Pawel

Hi Ron, thank you for the information. I needed a confirmation. Do you know how much longitudinal play the crankshaft should have? I put on about 0.1 - 0.2 mm. I do not know if it's good? I have bearings without seals. It will be like the original, i.e. greased shoes. 😂 Thanks to Jan, I have an original magneto advance lever. Mine was broken. Stay healtly. Pawel

Hi, I have another problem with the engine construction. In my motor, the shaft bearing was converted to metric bearings and a simmering sealant was added. Now I want to fit the original inch bearings. And I have a question about the bearings on the clutch side. Is there any bushing or seal between RLS8 and RLS9? Best regards. Pawel

Hi, work slowed down a bit due to COVID. In parallel with the work on the military version, work on the civil version is in progress. The levers and cables new. Handlebar 1"x15/16" from Brian. Cheers Pawel

Hi, work slowed down a bit due to COVID. I was able to partially fold the handlebar parts. Handlebar from Brian, clutch and brake lever by Doherty. The rest of the "jewelry" original and renewed. I greet everyone. Paul

Ron, you are right. We say similary: keep your tongue in your mouth or keep tonque with reins (like horse bridle). 😂 Pawel

Hi Ron, perhaps I spelled it wrong in English. In Poland, you can make a nameplate legally. I will also do this after rebuilding the bike. I'm not doing anything illegal in Poland. I attach an extract from the legal provisions from government site with partial translation: https://bip.poznan.pl/bip/sprawy/zgoda-na-nadanie-numeru-vin-wydanie-zastepczej-tabliczki-znamionowej,1754/ Best regards Pawel

Hi, in my 1939 catalog it's the same as in yours, Ron. As for the numbering of the Harley Davidson WLA in Poland, there is also the same problem. The registration office may issue a frame number. But all of them already have their numbers stamped by the demobilization office after the war. The same problem is with the Triumphs, where there is no nameplate. My motorcycle has a plate issued by a military office or during demobilization. The second one doesn't have a plate and I will make replacement name plate to the correct frame and engine numbers. A universal replacement plate can be attached and confirmed at the Vehicle Inspection Station (MOT). Cheers Pawel

Ok, I don't know the English production system, technology, mentality etc like you. I also have a problem with checking, because I have already powder coated both frames. But I don't remember any other items being numbered. Additionally, marking is done by stamping (the same font as the fame number). With cast or forged elements, it is easier to mark them during the technological process as traps (like in photo). Subsequent stamping adds additional costs. Note that motor parts like flywheel, cylinder (there is also a cylinder in Polish) or conrod are stamped. Only machined by turning and milling are stamped. For example, gears of a gearbox. In my experience, you will sooner find a mistake in paper manuals than on metal parts. Take a look at RoofRack what heated discussion you have generated. 😁 Thanks Ron for your version. I will probably stay with the version with an error in the parts list. Pawel

Hi Ron, On my both bikes sign 1630 is upside down. Maybe so, but why is this only element marked? Do other elements, such as: headstock, support for tank, engine and gearbox plate supports and others have a marking? But you know British technology better than I do. Regards Pawel

Ron, what's the number on your bike 1630 or 1631? Pawel

I like this restoration and that you left it in the racing spec. Its post-war history and use for civilian purposes is visible. Another family member found.🙂 Regards Pawel

Hi Ron, It is possible that it is a newer version of this part and is renamed to 1631? But maybe a mistake. In the gearbox drawing (page 30), the layshaft 2th gear and 3th gear numbers are mixed up. In the list on page 31 it is correct + WR numbers. I am enclosing the catalog pages with the corrected numbers. I also found a few other mistakes, but I don't remember quickly. One thing is sure, the F1630 number is not the serial frame number. Thanks Ron for the comments. Pawel

Hello RoofRack, welcome to the club. The number under the seat of the F1630 is the part number, i.e. the front portion of the frame. F like frame. The engine parts are prefixed with E like engine. The 1939 parts catalog lists the F 1631. I think this is one of the many mistakes in this catalog. Both of my bikes have the number 1630 stamped on them. My one bike is from order C5108 and has the numbers TL15567 / 3S 28594 / TE8124 (normal ratio). The second is the TL17954 (order C 6128), engine 3S 28675 (order C5108), gearbox TE 32640 (wide ratio). We have motorbikes built around a similar period of time. Pawel

Hi. I need F1804 instrumental panel, F1726 oil gauge, dash lamp DC44, switch ass. and ammeter (magdyno set) for my 3S deLuxe (like in photo). Does anyone have these parts for sale? Renovation work has slowed down a bit, but still ahead. Hope to present new photos soon. Lots of health for everyone. Pawel

Thank for your answer Slaapstad, I do not know the use of the L I98 carburetor? I have not found this type anywhere? Regards Pawel