pawelcen

Ron, thank you very much.

Top diameter its  apr. 55 mmm.  ???  😀

Best regards

Pawel

Ron,

could you please measure what is the min (top) and max (bottom) diameter and the height of the cap?
I need to make it similar to the original.

Pawel

Ron, 

until today I knew three types of forks for 3SW/HW.
The Indian copy is still different. It's hard to catch up.

The first in Motorcycle Parts '39, the second in Maintenance Manual 3HW and next  in TRIUMPH from 1937 A.St.J.Masters '55. The Indian copy  is the fourth version. ?????

Pawel

. 

Hi Ron,

was the top part originally cut as in the Indian one?

Pawel

Hi Ron,
I don't know what material it is, but it looks like sand cast iron. Quality it's very bad.
Everything is crooked. I guess this device is the Indian's sneakers and the asphalt of the street. 

I will definitely not be using it for driving.

Was the top part originally cut as in the Indian one?

Pawel

Ron, I think green is also 3HW. See that the torsion damper mount has been removed. This is a photo after sandblasting before  renovation. Later the fork was repaired only in the lower part. And therefore  both have the same width.  Maybe?????

Pawel

Hi Ron,
it's a mystery to me.
Or maybe the top part is not from Triumph, but from another English motorcycle?

Pawel

Hi,

the automatic corrector refuses to accept the number 8 and replaces it with the "Blues Brothers"😎.  

Quote

Eccentric bolt, nut and sleeve (clamps 6, 7, 8)...

Pawel

Sorry Ron,

for not replying but I didn't have access to the forum. After restarting the computer and refreshing the software, it works.😀

This top part of mine has a different lubrication. ???? One grease nipple is cheaper than two. Maybe it's savings in the war time?
Eccentric bolt, nut and sleeve (clamps 6, 7, 😎 it's a same like in the picture for 3HW.
Also the steering damper (22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27) is the same as for 3HW.

The top part from India is similar to yours, but the clamp is different.
The widths are the same as the fork: 154.9 mm and 162.2 mm. My old and Indian copy are the same width.

Old is green in the pictures. Blue is an Indian copy.

Pawel

I dont know?

My top clip is not a same. 

Top view in the foto.  It's only one grease nipple. 

Pawel

Thank's Ron,

Of course it's a cap. 😀

Does it have a hole or groove for lubrication?
There is a grease hole in the head clip and a second for positioning (?) cap.
There is also a groove in the bearing cone.
I don't know if it's original.

Regards

Pawel

Hi,
Next question:
what does the ball race cup (in figure 16) look like?
My front fork is 3HW and some parts are missing.

Surely they weren't needed?😂

Pawel

Hi Ron,
I want to change the whole  engine, gearbox and the primary chain cover with clutch.

Pawel

Hi,

I have the option to buy a 3H engine with a gearbox and clutch from 1943. Can I convert a 3 SW engine to a 3H motor? 

I would have one military s.v. and a second civilian o.h.v.

Or maybe it's better to leave s.v.?

What do you think about it?

Work on the military is progressing. Unfortunately slow.

Pawel

Thanks Lex.
Hope it works well.
The hardness of the outer ring is ok. The inner ring was also hard when machined. Unfortunately, not like the outer.

Pawel

Thanks Lex,
I was counting according to the scheme given by prof. Trzebiatowsky.
40 years ago I regenerated the clutch for my other Triumph according to these calculations. Today it looks like the picture, so I guess I figured it out well. There was less damage there and the rollers were about 6.5 mm.

Regards

Pawel

Thank you Ron. I remember.

Thanks to a colleague who has machine tools, I designed and regenerated the bearing in accordance with the technology from the 1950s.

From calculations it turned out that 17 rolls must be 7.5mm in diameter. The play between the rollers is 0.03 mm. Outer diameter 48.5 mm. Inner diameter 35.5 mm. Roll length 5.83 mm (play 0,1 mm). 

Repair description:

1. Outer ring after grinding the hole and surfaces

2. Machining of the inner ring of the bearing

3. Cutting rolls to the correct length with an allowance

4. Surface grinding of a set of 17 rollers

5. Grinding the side of the roll

6. Each piece quality control

7. From left 3 long bearing rollers, 3 partially machined rollers, 17 finished rollers

8. Clutch bearing after repair.

Pawel 

Hi,

in the meantime, I had to repair the clutch.
As you can see in the photo, there were not enough rolls and they had a diameter of 6mm(!). They destroyed the clutch bearing.

Pawel

That's right Ron. 

I must paint. Thank you.

Pawel

Thanks Ron.

I have a dull plated handlebars and front brake rod.

I must make rear brake rod and girder fork top links also in dull plated chrom, because my bike is dated the beginning of the war. Pawel

Hi Ron,
are the girder fork top links and rear brake components also painted? 

Best regards

Pawel

I forgot to add that in the period from November 2021 to March 2022, the frame was in two repair companies. Unfortunately, neither did anything. ☹️  They got my straightener, but it was too hard for them anyway. Three months lost.

As always, you have to do it yourself.

Pawel

Thank you Ron for your help.

A brief history of restoration:

March 2022. The rear part of the frame has been cut open and straightened. The wooden stick is 2.5 meters long.

April 2022. For welding, I had to stiffen the frame. I made an outer "skeleton" in which the frame was adjustable and firmly fixed. It could be welded.

April 2022. Reconstruction of frame elements.

June 2022. Frame after welding, painting and connecting the front part to the rear part. Gearbox installed.

to be continued...🙂

Hi,
after a long absence in the forum, I come back.
I will write about the renovation later.
Today I have a question: which of the parts in the photo should be dull chrome plated or painted in 1940?
I hope that the color was chosen in accordance with the samples received.
Best regards.

Pawel

Hi Richard,
I cannot recommend the supplier.
I had a turner make screws for my engine.
Best regards
Pawel