rbrtcrowther

Don't suppose your winch brake is stuck on is it? If its been left in the on position it may have stuck to the drum.:cool2:

We're all fingers crossed here Robert, although Unless the balance is different it should be OK. Those pickup pipes are a b***er aren't they, nice to have help though!

yes the pickup pipes are a b***er and all the nuts and bolts were wired up or had teeny tiny split pins.:noyay:

Have you cleaned out the inside of that block with anything?

Looks remarkably gunge free for an old engine! Also looks promising for the condition of other parts even if the crank was poorly.

No but she had vairious oil changes and flushes to try and get to the bottom of the oil pressure problem. And i got little Jenny to wipe out the crank case with some rag.

I don't want to go to town on the engine with paint ect incase it still has issues.

Will try to stand it up tonight and start on the timing case ect.:sweat:

Well today i went and did battle with the crankshaft:beatenup:and after much struggle it is now fitted. There is only about an 8th of an inch clearence between the ballance weights and the block also the crank will only come out in one position. (if you have an explorer workshop manual feel free to read up on crankshaft removal with heads still on. )

Have had lots of help from little Jenny all weekend who provided tea toast and cleaned all the bits and even helped fit crank. she also tightened the bolts for the sump.(there are quite a few).

so we now have a diesel engine with a petrol crank and a petrol sump and oil pump scavenge system from engines built 20 years apart. fingers crossed.:nut:

No rumble at all... Sounded sweet as a nut. Mabey cos the crank was so heavy? Just a compleat lack of oil pressure:-( And a broken main bearing stud.

That crank has already had one regrind in 1957. To be honest due to the lack of parts availability for this engine if this epic crankshaft swap is a waste of time i will have to lob it in the bin and fit a leyland 680. I know where ther are 27 of them in a row at the last count!

By the way you see can a clip of the landy and and some mates on youtube just put "Glaslyn 4x4" in the search.

Well finally after sorting the car and land rover out ( the car had no brakes and i keep breaking the land rover every time i off road it:drive:)

I am now flat out on the Scammell engine So long as we don't arrange any more off road days out.

I have removed the crank from the diesel today. The bearings are gone and the crank has groves like you've never seen. Its also bloomin heavy:shocked:

Tomorrows task is to plonk the petrol crank in with it's shells throw the sump at it in double check the timing. I really have to get it right as the timing gears are behind the flywheel and i think there would be tears if i got it wrong:banghead:

Here are some pics i will try to post more :whentitsdone:

Just a quick note on sludge in engines. I have removed the crankshaft from my doner petrol engine. I thought i would check the plugs in the big end journels. One of the oil passeges was compleatly blocked with sludge in every journel..... Bonkers.:shocked:

I think they were fitted with an anti freezer device that added (glycol) into the air from the compressor thus stopping the brake system from freezing up in very cold conditions. When the unloader vale opens it resurculates the antifreezed air round the compressor to avoid wastage of the glycol. Otherwise it would fart it out in no time.

Mines fine now too.:thanx:

The oil pressure relief valve can be easly removed. There is a large brass plug on the side of the upper sump on the left hand side about 2" round. whip it off and you will see the relief valve cap ( Think a 1/2" square drive extension will fit) remove this and the relief valve spring, valve and seat can be easly removed (you may have to hook the valve seat out with a piece of wire.

The free lenth of the spring should be 3 and 3/16 of an inch long. Giving a pressure relief of 50 psi.

Thinking of which, I've been trying to get a Meadows diesel workshop manual - missed one on ebay last year.

 

Does anyone have one spare to sell? If so I would be quite happy to get some copies professionally done and ring bound, for anyone who needs one. This would be at cost - but the more copies done the cheaper it is. I usually find they run out at £15 to £30 depending on the number (if any) of large pull-out diagrams.

 

Alternatively is there anyone who would be prepared to lend one for this purpose?

 

If there is one available, I'm quite happy to keep a copy, not the original, but I don't mind organising the copying.

 

How many would be interested in a copy?

 

I have old and later style parts books (Meadows didn't waste money on publications - they look like poorly carbon copied typed lists inside very nicely printed card covers!!!).

Hello,

I didn't miss the one on ebay last year. In fact it's sat next to me now and it says to use a good quality oil about quarter of a pint. No mension of a drain plug either. Also says that the pump is lubricated by the fuel oil so why that part has a dip stick i don't know. The book dosen't cover the vacume controlled pump only the mechanicle one.

Currently using the manual at the moment as my engine is scatterd round the shed waiting for the petrol crank to plop in.

Automotive engine 130hp @ 1900 rpm.

Dry weight 1.790lb

Oil pressure of not less than 40psi hot.:whentitsdone:

Less then 25psi :stop:immediately

All the best Rob.

I am pretty sure that someone on this fourm has used nylon bushes but can't rememberwhere i read it.:confused:

No it's forgotten me again.:computerrage:

Martian picture taken by Peter Jones !

Also one of Bill's Sold a good few years ago. Apparently it had fantastic recovery gear but the truck they fitted it to was a load of sh*&.:rofl: (His words not mine)

This one still belongs to Bill Hesleton and he's just fitted a leyland 680. I have just bought one of his old petrol engines to put the crankshaft in my diesel. I think he still has the petrol engine he has just removed and may (Will) want to sell it. This explorer still goes out on heavy winching jobs and he has great archive of photos of winching jobs and i mean really heavy stuck and well and truly buried winching jobs. He also has one of the prototype foden heavy wreakers which i think he said has all the the gear that the army did not fit to the fodens they finally orderd. He is the Police approved recovery firm for the north of wales. Also has a leyland cabbed militant (think he had about 7 once but sold them all for the foden.) Ex army coles crane 25ton. Plus the usual other more modern recovery trucks . He did mension he may want to sell his land rover 2b recovery truck as he never uses it.

Haven't got a clue.:coffee:

Yes cleared my cookies and had to log in twice:computerrage:but now it's ok i think.:thumbsup:

I had trouble with the engineering company who made the mould for my metalastic coupling. Took them nearly a year to get roung to doing it and then it had to go back because the rubber company said there was no way to remove the coupling after moulding it! Then atfer all that the bloody things are a 16th of an inch smaller cos they failed to alow for the rubber contracting when they cool down. And this engineering company make moulds for the rubber company all the time. They even had the coupling to measure from. Then they charged me £400 od!:argh: And I still have to machine the couplings to fit. It would have been cheaper to buy an old milling machine and do it myself

I would be very interested as to what is noisy in a scammell. My gearbox is smooth and silent and very easy to change gear (can change all gears with finger and thumbs on gearknob) until we go for number 6 which changes easy in and out but screams. How loud is a loud? I only have a oil pressure light.

Hi there, Visited your website many times. Very interesting and very usefull.:bow:

If i was you i would fit one in a compleatly random place just like scammell did.:idea: So long as you don't fit one on the drivers front bulkhead, passsenger foot well or drivers side rear of the cab as these positions have been used before so other people would be able to find it easly. Mabey fit it on the roof or under the floor.

Rob

Hi mines in the back right hand corner of the cab also houses the battery isolator switch and contact breakers.

Can't really compare as i've only driven mine a shot distance. I have got loads of slop in the cables at the moment so the pedel travels about 4 inches and most of the air disapears but i did stomp on them before i arived home and was really quite chuffed.

Best find a quiet road and go for it.

Er you've got me there.... Not sure.:red: