rbrtcrowther

Be very carefull tightering your injectors when you refit them. They only just need nipping up or you may damage the heads( the book says use the standard 4" box spanner supplyed with the tool kit) Better too loose and tighten if they leak.

I might have to fight you for it if my crankshaft replacement dosen't go well!!!:box: (But i also know of a large pile of 680's too)

If only he knew i can already re-ruber them for £30 Highly tempted to place an ebay ad myself!!!!! Just hope to god there is'nt some poor bugger who's just bought a scammell and thinks buying that is the thing to do.

People like that really pi** me off. Alot of people have to try and restore old trucks and cars on a shoestring buget and have even saved for years to buy then in the first place. To try and rob someone just because its a rare part anoys me. Why not just let people bid for it. Plus it's not a new part it's a bloody 50 year old part made from 50 year old rubber and glue. Highly likley to fall to bits. Grrrrrr....:argh:

According to the manual later engines have all the head bolts under the rocker covers on the of the cylinder heads. Earlier ones have nuts in the tappet chamber. You can get them undone with a ring spanner. The special tool looks like a half a ring spanner with a square drive to fit the tourque wrench. Remove both rocker boxes together as one piece. To avoid stripping out the decompressor shaft. Don't worry they arnt heavy:sweat:There are two rocker shaft oil feeds. It is recomended to remove the injectors as they protrude and may get damaged.(it's up to you) You can leave the water pump on. There are two dowels per cylinder head to line it all up.

I am pretty sure the diesel engine in your scammel was Either made to Scammell specifications Or was converted using petrol parts as the water pump and fan are dfferent and much larger than the one shown in the diesel book and there are other differences too. One of your oil filters has been removed to clear the exhaust. (Or was it ever fitted.) Are there any other home made looking bits like the exhaust downpipe ect. Some were made with meadows diesels.

I had a hell of a job getting the heads of the doner engine they were all stuch to the studs.

There was a meadows diesel manual on ebay the other day.

Glad to see you've got the head gaskets. Must be a bit of a relief.:sweat:Best to check your cylinder heads and block are not warped before fitting. :-D

Mmm:undecided:mmm..... See your problem.. Bit of a possible no win situation. Run the engine without the shaft in and risk having to strip the clutch out a re center it.. or put it all back together and find you truck falls to bits at full throttle and have to take it all to bits again.:embarrassed:

I don't know how long my couplings will last (they should do 30 odd years i hope) but if you could post some pics of your propshaft conversion on the explorer thread with a bit more information i'm sure people would be interested. How long have you been running a propshaft. I'm sure there is an explorer running a propshaft on this forum somewhere.

Did you see the drive coupling on Ebay for £400 buy it now ! :rofl: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Scammell-drive-coupling-early-type_W0QQitemZ170306057679QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM?hash=item170306057679&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

The mould for my coupling cost £400 and i can re rubber them for about £20 This bloke is taking the pis*:mad::angry:box:

Nighty night :rofl:

So how much honk do you get from that tank? and how long to refill after said honk?:shake:

Holding breath now:red:

My god is that carpet under your truck:D

Flipping heck she's in better nick than mine was!!!!:wow:

Ive run alot of big engines up with no splines in the clutch plate (some of them just sat on the floor vibrating round the shed!) with no problems. However your clutch is a big old lump. Mabey a short run at low revs first and recheck alignment then build up to full chat in stages. If you have a balance problem its most likley to occur at a certain number of revs. Seems like a lot of work to pull the box out if it is bad:cry:

Hi

Really sorry to hear about you head gasket.:cry: i hope a re tourque will sort it out but i think you should prepare for a heads off day. I have no idea where you would get gaskets for your meadows diesel and if you manage to find some let me know. You could get some made no problem at all but when i had a quick look round the internet out of interest (I'ts nice to know if you can find gaskets for an old engine your running) it looked like it would cost about £400 to get both gaskets made!!! I stopped looking at that point as my gaskets are ok at the moment.

It seems the meadows diesel is a very rare beast and parts are none existent. If you find gaskets please let me know. Of course anything can be made for a price but there comes a point when it's time to put something with more parts available like a rolls royce eagle or leyland 680 in it. Such a shame as not many meadows diesels left now. Good luck and i hope someone has some gakskets or you find a cheap soloution. Please let me know.(Assuming this bl**dy engine of mine will run when it put it back in!!)

Possibly with the deepwell sump removed you may get to a big end. i would just check one they will all have the same amount of goo. at least you will have piece of mind then. It realy is a pain in the ars8 working over the top of the axle. I would try to aviod removing the upper sump just cos of the number of bloody nuts and bolts. Try to get comfy and have lots of tea in fags handy.

You can just see one oilway in the picture..... The other one is compleatly blocked with hard goo...hence if you prod about you may push goo into the oil way and into the bearing. If you have a small goo build up either leave well alone or use a mirror on a stick to see if the oilway is in danger of blockage.( The oilways are positioned so goo can collect without blocking the oil passages)Unless it's as bad as mine. the book says to check them whenever the sump is removed.

There are two washers one each side of the journal held together with a long bolt. The nut is splitpinned with a really small anoying pin. Good luck.

Hi just a thought...:idea: but while you are in the crank case with the sumps off why not remove one of the plugs in the big ends and have a look to see if there is any sludge build up in the journel. seems like a great time to take a look. hopefully they will be clean cos if you need to clean them out it may be nessary to remove the bearing cap to avoid goo gettng into the cap oilway.

I would definatly whip one of the plugs out and take a look.

I folded mine on a number 5 fly press with an 18" vee block and wedge, just had to keep moving it back and forth increacing the fold as i went. Its the part of the scammel i am most chuffed with.

Just a thought but i am pretty sure there is a none return valve that prevents loss of air from the air tank that works the brakes. The air steering works off the main tank a valve protects against loss of air from the braking system in the event of exssive steering action so so yes i would say plumbed into the main air tank would be ok

Just got in after checking the valve timing...Good god what an utter pain in the b**hole:banghead: All my timing marks line up perfect but i thought it would be a good idea to double check the valve timing as per the manual. So out with the diesel manual and all the tedious steps were followed to the letter. Oh dear....Oh dear oh dear. nothing like what it was supposed to be. I was now stressed double checking the timing marks and the timing charts in the book.:readbook: (A meadows diesel de-compresses on the inlet valve for extra confusion)

2 hours later still no joy and i am now deeply stressed as i can't run the engine on the floor cos of the oil cooler and filter situation, and all the timing gears are behind the flywheel....clutch.....bellhousing.ect so if it's wrong the engine will have to come out again.

Just When all seemed lost I had a look at the explorer manual for the petrol engine that showed another way of checking valve timing (great just what i need>) But more importantly another valve timing chart! with different over laps ect. So back to job in hand and hey presto valve timing now makes sence(i think, but to be honset i've compleatly lost the plot by this point) and is all in the right place.

It is at this point i noticed that the diesel book looks alot older than the explorer book. Also there is a brass plate on the engine... Engine recondishend 1953 and bought up mark 9c specification. So i am now 99.99 percent sure that the camshaft was revised to give a greater (flexibility) on later engines. I'll just have to wait and see if the damn thing runs ok.

Old engines.....old books....old up grades= a great deal of stress.:cry:

Regarding the horns. You could fit a small air tank just for the horns with a large bore hose to the horn valve. I would feed this from the tyre inflator line using a small bore pipe possibly with a reducer in the line (mabey a fuel jet from an old carburettor) Thus in the event of a huge horn related air leak the small air tank would empty but the reducer woud limit the air lost from the tractor system(you would notice the air pressure dropping on the gauge.It's not hard to fit a warning buzzer to the air tanks either.

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Best make sure your bums back in order before you lift that lot back in. All that straining..... you might blow an o-ring!:rofl: