CVRT.Screw clamp.Rear door i know these can be used to pull the final drive out to enable towing. My spartan being my spartan has one of the final drives stuck in. I am going to have to make a puller so need to make a threaded bar to screw in to the final drive. Being me i searched everywhere and while i found the part number i could not find a description of the CVRT.Screw clamp.Rear door, does anyone know the thread size and does anyone has a diagram of the final drive as the "pin" is totally missing and i need to replace it

does anyone have a part number or drawing of the plate please?

Working with a friend on a Scorpion starting to rebuild it back up. including in this is installation of 2 x 353's on the back shelf of the turret. My friend went and picked up what he thought were fixing brackets but it all appears to small, I have included a few pictures for reference. Has anyone got the part numbers or can provide pictures of what the real brackets should be, including part numbers.

Cheers in anticpation

Lance

39 minutes ago, sirhc said:

Hi Lance,

a friend had a stainless one made, that would be the best option.

Chrid 

Someone actually has one, but that's what I was thinking, don't suppose you could get  contact number 

Lance

Right chaps,

Petrol Spartan 40 years young and the exhaust box has more holes in it that was intended, had a quick look in the normal places and did find something in thexmod that looked simaler   but my box has slotted pipes at either end while the xmod one looks hard welded at one end (FV781728).

I am approaching a couple of custom exhaust places to see what they would charge for the box as it is not a "stock" size.

Does anyone know if the xmod one is correct or knows of someone that will make one up

Cheers

2 hours ago, sirhc said:

Marcus Glenn has J60 electronic distributors on his website. 

Email sent

Cheers

14 minutes ago, David Herbert said:

Are you sure that it doesn't have electronic ignition? When originally built they used a slightly changed B60 distributor but this didn't work very well due to the reverse rotation and higher speed causing trouble with the points. In theory they were all modified with the Luminition electronic system that uses an LED and a photo cell to detect the movement of a disk with gaps in it that replaces the function of the points and cam. This system is very reliable but does need to be clean and the centrifugal advance and retard needs to work properly. It is also still possible to get coil problems and 60 year old HT leads are not always up to the task.

David

Hi there, I haven't actually looked but I did speak to a mechanic who remembers it being points and he was going to swap it out before it was sold on. and i am trying to get ducks in a row as i hate starting then having to stop then starting again. So trying to get information so if it is i can order the parts rather than hunt around and order the parts.

1 hour ago, terryb said:

the electronic ignition was by Lumenition, but I dont think this is your problem. I sounds more like insufficient fuel supply at maximum demand. There are two filters in the fuel line, the gauze filter in the end of the clack clack pump, and the the fuel filter itself. The metal fuel tank is notorious for corroding from the inside out, and you may find rusty sludge in the filters. If so then your carb will require a meticulous clean and blow out with an airline. Good luck. 

Thanks you Terry, some one else made the same suggestion, but I had also read and heard that electronic is the way to to go and while things are apart I might as well think about swapping it out

Just now, sirhc said:

Lance are you still using the main fuel tank?

No I am running from a new marine tank.

It has been suggested that the "carb floats" may have become stuck. or some "debris" has become stuck in the carb's pipework/ jets.

Hi all,

Does anyone know the part number and a supplier for an electronic Ignition for my Petrol Spartan.

History for those interested

I have been running round my Petrol Spartan in Alton (the Cold War Museum). It developed an issue were it was misfiring on tick over. I replaced the plugs and it sounded 100% better. Testing the removed plugs I found 2 were faulty, 1 completely dead the other worked after cleaning and re-gapping. While I was in there I took the air filter completely apart and to say it was fouled was an understatement. After cleaning and refilling with oil to the marks I put everything back together with the new plugs. Everything seemed ok on the few test runs I did.

After letting a couple of people drive it round the field they mentioned it seemed to lack power, so sitting when warm, ticking over and engine revs went up ok when driving it about the engine seemed to lack grunt. So the plugs were removed and all 6 were found to be "sooty" black (dry). I cleaned them up and refitted them after finding one with no gap at all and one plug only hand tight (shoot the person who changed them before, that will be me then). This as all sorted, cleaned and put back in. The carb was reset and screws adjusted and she was restarted. Idle was achieved and she seemed to be running sweetly once more, however when taken for a test drive while the power had "improved" I was told it was not were it should be.

My next port of call is the coil, distribution cap, points and leads, as well as testing the compression of each cylinder.

39 minutes ago, Jimy2bins said:

Hello, I'm looking at doing my h license aswell but think the price doubling in the last few years is disgusting.  From what I understand about what nick mead has said is, he was told by dvsa that they will only do it using the tracked tractor now and it has to be in traffic. I can understand that buying the challenger tractor and the cost of the rubber tracks mean he was looking at increasing the price. Not sure if the tester will come to you anymore.  They were going to do away with the h license, but realised some people do need it so just decide to make it a lot harder,  I suspect to put of Joe blogs from getting it to drive military stuff on the road. If anyone has found anything recently that is concrete please share. 

Have you actually contacted dvla and found out what they say? I have had the same chat with Nick myself, however I have heard the other people are still doing h license’s if so how? 

I have been in contact with dvla and been told I can instruct people to get there license, I just didn’t go that extra mile to find out what else is involved 

Part 21. Anyone got one laying about they don't need

2590-99-823-8639 - FV793711 –

SHUTE, CLIP CUPOLA; STEEL, CD PLATED,

2.688 IN LG, 1.664 IN W, 3.125 IN H

If not anyone got any dimensioned drawings so i can make one?

No longer required, I ended up making one. Fitted and working well

32 minutes ago, david1212 said:

You would need to enquire but a unit specifically intended as a battery charger might not work without a substantial battery pack connected.

Good catch, some of the new ‘smart’ chargers wouldn’t work as they would think there not connected to anything and you would have to ‘fool’ them with some dummy load ..

i have that problem with my supply for my rust removal setup

any supply of 24v at 55 Amps is going to take some cooling, a fan and a half. Putting 240v through a transformer and rectifier will still produce some heat and fan. 

There are 3 elements inside  the BV hence the current draw, 

FV756564 ..  2540-99-810-5814 .. BRACKET, VEHICULAR
COMPONENTS; 4.000 IN W,
COMPRISES BRACKET,
PILLAR SUPPORT AND
COLLAR

According to the book of parts. I have the backrest but not the bracket it sits in. So before I make one I wondered does anyone have one sitting around or the dimensions of the bracket to aid in the manufacture of a new one.

Thanks guys

Well I fitted the wheel I had used the polymer glue on and did a few turns on an area of grass.......................

The outer rubber came off left lots of polymer on the outer rubber and the wheel itself indicating I had managed to get good adhesion across the whole of the rubber and the rim, but it was not strong enough to withstand the sheering forces...

Still I learnt something and had some fun playing...

E10 fuel: is the switch going to affect you?

With E10 unleaded petrol replacing E5 as the standard petrol grade from 1 September 2021, find out if your car’s compatible with E10 and how does this fuel could affect your car.

I have seen the post up to now, has anyone actually got any advice? or come the second are we all going to go bang?

I did notice Jag Engines after 1992 are meant to be ok, Shame that is well later then our design.

1 minute ago, Oh Five said:

Just a slight off-set on this topic.  If someone is looking for a vehicle to start providing training for the H Licence, how about using on of these?  

https://uk-tracks.com/models/tinger-track-2/

The website says that they can be road registered.

As the vehicle is 'steered by tracks',  does it matter whether that is by levers or 'motorcycle handlebars'.

When I did my h it was in an Argocat which had handlebars... but I know Nick told me they weren’t allowed to use it any more, so they sold it and brought a huge tractor thing

Having just done a c license and my bike license, the h license was a joke. 20 mins of an examiner walking beside you,  turning left, right, stopping, reversing round a corner followed by 3 Highway Code questions. No wonder any can teach it

1 hour ago, Rodney Maynard said:

Most probably have been hit with changes so understand the frustration. I want to do it for arigculture side of things not tank use. 

Tanks-a lot now use a tractor for their h license training, just mention it as you mentioned arigculture . Not sure what they are doing as a large of tanks-alot are off to play in the sand 

1 hour ago, Rodney Maynard said:

Most probably have been hit with changes so understand the frustration. I want to do it for arigculture side of things not tank use. 

Tanks-a lot now use a tractor for their h license training, just mention it as you mentioned arigculture . Not sure what they are doing as a large of tanks-alot are off to play in the sand 

3 minutes ago, Rodney Maynard said:

Yeah about right. My class 1 cost me 1100 pound but a few years backs now and I already had the my cpc through acquired rights. 

I didn’t do cpc as I only want it to transport my Spartan around, but yes I  imagine it adds a lot to the bill

5 minutes ago, Rodney Maynard said:

Tanksalot are in Northampton and don't mind travelling but 1200 pound to do a course. My hgv and pcv training didn't cost that lol. 

I have just done c license for £1400 but that was everything, and not just 2 days

1 minute ago, MatchFuzee said:

If nothing closer, a 2 day course including the test:-

https://tanks-alot.co.uk/h-licence-training/

As you are tested by a DVLA tester, the DVLA should be able to tell you where H license training is done. 

Anyone with an H license can actually do H licensing training so DVLA may not know where it is done. They will tell you where there are H Licensing examiners. I did my training with Tanks-alot