Ian J

My wife and I have been to W&P 3 times from New Zealand and loved every one of them. Our first 2 were Paddock Wood, the 3rd Folkstone. I hear you all about unreliability of the organisers, crazy prices etc, but from an outsiders perspective it would be a shame to see it disappear, where else will I find as good an excuse to visit England again 🤣\ CHeers Ian J

Yes, all original, thanks for the info, best I go and measure the garage 😂

Hi folks, could someone with a Defender 90 Hard Top please measure the overall height of the vehicle please? I want to make sure it will fit my garage. Cheers Ian

Ok so in reality the "serial number" has no bearing on the interpretation of the catalogue. Thanks for your help . Cheers Ian

Hi guys, Page 6 to 11 of the Wolf parts catalogue lists the Wolf variants by "serial number". starting at No 1 through to 99. Am I right to assume the numbers are derived from the 1st digits of the engine number? I'm just trying to understand how the catalogue works. Cheers Ian

Another possibility is your relief valve stuck in the open position. When the engine is cold, remove the relief valve cap nut and spring, With a flexi magnet pull the plunger out and give it a gentle polish with very fine steel wool. I strongly advise you to use 20W/50 oil as the viscosity between hot and cold is far more consistent than straight 40 weight. 47 years of experience with MB's 😁 Cheers

Books on order, thanks for the pointers. Cheers Ian

Thanks Matchfuzee, That's brilliant! Cheers Ian

Thanks, but I do not do Facebook, is there an alternative please?

Hi folks, Looking for a workshop manual and operation manual for LR Wolf 1996 on. Cheers Ian

Thanks John.

Hi BR, Thanks for that, really appreciate your input. Cheers Ian

Hi folks, I am now the owner of a 1998 Wolf 90 Hard top, the only one in New Zealand that I know of. Can someone point me in the direction of a source for British MV markings please? Preferrably markings that would match a vehicle of that vintage and Scotish regiments and my father e=was a career soldier in various Scottish regiments. Cheers Ian

Diesel "bug" is not an uncommon problem. The bug lives in the inversion layer between water and diesel fuel and will clog filters very quickly. If it gets as far as injectors then your in deep Sh.t! When the injector nozzle heats up during ignition, the bug turns to varnish and seizes the nozzle needle and your injectors are now destined for the scrap metal bin. There are treatments available to kill the bugs, but by far the best approach is to remove your fuel tank, drain completely and wash out with the biocide that you would use to treat the bug. Drain ALL fuel lines and flush carefully with biocide. In all honesty I have actually used flexible rifle pull throughs to clean fuel lines! Reassemble and full your system with clean fuel.To prevent reinfection, ensure you refill your fuel tank regularly but especially after a longish run. This is VERY important if you have Cummins or Detroit Diesel type unit injectors as the fuel returns to the fuel tank and warms the fuel in the tank. As the warm fuel contracts it draws cold air into the tanks, along with the moisture in the air. Over time the moisture builds up and hey presto, perfect conditions for the fuel bug. If you have had an infection, and follow the above advice, I would strongly advise you to also dose your fuel tank (s) regularly with biocide to prevent reinfection, especially if you have bulk storage and/or you have vehicles that do not run often. Don't bother asking your service station (Gas/petrol station) for advise, they will not have a clue what your talking about, and even if they do they will usually deny the existence of the bug as they want to avoid any liability. Cheers Ian

Darren, Pete Asbey's advice is good, dont start ripping things apart until you have a good idea where the oil is coming from. Check the sump oil level and the air cleaner oil level as suggested, check the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) hose for excessive oil. Also get a torch and look down each intake port at the stems of the inlet valves (you will have to remove the inner mudguard to get a good look). If the oil is being sucked up the inlet valve stems (which I doubt) then the stems will be wet with oil. Obviously once you find the source (s) of the oil then you can set about putting them right. Cheers Ian

Hi Squirrel, yes, I'm very fortunate. I recently sold my WC 57 that I had owned for 11 years, to buy the M38A1. Alas there was not enough space in my garage for all 4😕. The MB we have owned since 1976 and is very much part of the family, the WC 53 we have owned since 2008. So what toys do you have sir? Cheers Ian

Hi folks, I am a new member to this forum, I have also been active for many years on the G503 and WW11 Dodge forums. I live in New Zealand and currently have a 1941 Willys MB, a 1942 Dodge WC 53 Carry-All (Under restoration) and a 1960 Nekaf M38A1. My interests apart from MV's are trout fishing, deer and wild fowl hunting and looking out for our extended family. Looking forward to some good info exchanges on the forum Cheers Ian