MIKES

The tops of the body on the Explorer definitely look to be a different wood to the sides / carcass. The tops look to be a harder wood and the rest just normal planed softwood. Trouble is that I don't know how much is original. The two boxes either side of the spare wheel (which have totally fallen apart, looked to have been remade at an earlier time as didn't seem to match the quality of the main body. Biggest problem is the multitude of paint on the vehicle which has so many layers that it's  difficult to see what's what. Don't think anyone ever rubbed any of it down before applying the next coat with the yard broom.

Thanks for the reply. Think I will have to take the best bit I can find to the saw mill and see what they think it is. It will all be painted. Think the silver was an aluminium based primer which apparently is good on hardwood so all makes sense.

Oak for the gun planks also makes sense. Will have to see what they can recommend for the rollers. 

Might have to break open another piggy bank for this lot.

Trying to plan ahead for when near normality returns, I was thinking about making a list for all of the rear wooden body on my Explorer that needs replacing. There is a very good sawmill near here which do all types of wood but before I can give them a list, I need to know what the original wood type was. I can't tell from what is left but would like to use something good and original. Can anyone please advise.

Also, it would be interesting to know what is typically used for gun planks and rollers - both Explorer age and for the more modern Foden EKA .

Many Thanks

Mike.

Quite a few of the MANs being cast are non-runners and although low mileage, can't be economically fixed due to necessary parts not being available.  I was surprised at this but have heard it confirmed by someone involved in the process. Terrible waste of tax payer monies as they don't make a fraction of their perceived value at auction. I'm not into the Army MANs as sole-less trucks in my opinion but if I did want to buy one, I would be concerned as to why there is never any physical viewing at the auctions and all bidding is done based upon the posted photo's on the website.

Here are some photo's of the WOT 6 when 'resting' in the front garden of the house in Brentwood . Taken not long before it was removed and the house pulled down.

Beautiful looking vehicle. Built when manufacturers used style and functionality in equal amounts unlike modern sole-less vehicles.  

 This the one that sat in a front garden in Brentwood for years. Was in good order a long time ago but sat and deteriorated.  I looked at it not long before it was removed as  a friend was interested but thought it too much work.  Could not see the engine at the time so would have been disappointed to find a 4D in it!  I've got photo's of it sat in the garden if you want them.

Good luck with the restoration.

Dave,

Not as would expect for a 1955 Explorer. The coupling should look like the attached and sits between two 'crosses' which each pick-up on alternative sections. The coupling in your photo might be off a civy Scammell as it has the correct square end for connecting to a short shaft via the coupling muffs. If you could find out what model it is from, then you might stand a chance of finding some inserts. Photos of correct Metalastik coupling attached. 

Dave,

In answer to your question, no they cannot be replaced with a flange as both engine and gearbox are individually rubber isolated from chassis so there will be some different movement at each end of the shaft. The Metalastik couplings can be repaired but only if the holes in the aluminium sections are in good order. Would be a waste of time and effort if the holes are oval. Some have recast the rubber using Devcon liquid rubber or similar. Basically make a mold of the coupling ensuring that the aluminium sections are correctly spaced and held and form an inner and outer retainer to pour the liquid rubber into.

As Longen has said, there are a few Explorers which have a propshaft to couple the engine to gearbox. There is a lot to fit into a short distance as you need a UJ at each end and a sliding section. Components must be of large enough size to transmit the power / torque dependent upon the engine that you have fitted. 

Are both couplings in a poor state? 

16 hours ago, Dee said:

Hi Mike I work on a Bedford (Green Goddess)I  would like to see what you have and whats available. Dee

Hello Dee,

Don't think any of these will be of any use as the Green Goddess are based on RL running gear and these tools are all for later Bedfords.

I don't have a bedford RL manual but I'm sure there will be someone on this forum who can help.

Mike.

This is the large jaw that goes on the end of the underlift arm to give you a vertical pin for towing trailers etc with ring hitch. I only have the large fabrication itself and the two smaller pins. I don't have the large threaded pin or the stabiliser bar. NSN 2590-99-833-5789 is the number for the whole assembly.  Items 10,14 and 15 on R5 Ancillary Equipment schedule.  Good condition - doesn't look to have had much use.Hopefully of use to an Eka owner. Open to offers

The two dump truck manuals and the S26 catalogue now gone to a new home where I hope they will prove themselves useful.

Thanks to Steve for collecting them.

I have the following which I no longer need. All in good condition except where noted. Open to offers.

'Dump Truck, Medium, Self Loading. 6x6, Scammell S26' Illustrated parts catalogue 3805-D-160-711  June 1990 (About 1"thick)

'Dump Truck, Medium, Self Loading. 6x6, Scammell S26' Technical Description and repair instruction 3805-D-160-302  May 1985 (About 1 1/2" thick) Used but still very usable.

Scammell S26 Parts catalogue (Scammell publication) Contract Number FVE 22A/222, order numbers 44017-44034 and 45241-45259. RAF 6 x 4 tractor unit. (About 1 1/2" thick).

'Truck, Load handling (DROPS) 15 tonne 8x6 LHD (IMMLC) Foden' 2320-R-302-711 2nd edition Jan 2002 (About 4" thick)

Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to reply and even look through the manuals . As per Richard's suggestion, I will take a photo of the tools that I have and hopefully it may be easier to identify them. There are some weird looking items but of course, there is always the possibility they are for something else. 

No, don't have a parts book. Are the tools shown in there? 

Richard,

Thanks for the reply. The reason for asking was that I have a heap of tools which were supposedly all Bedford and I'm trying to sort-out what they all do with the aim to making a complete set. Quite a few are made by Kent Moore so hopeful but think there might be a few interlopers in the heap.

Always nice to use a properly made specialist tool - heaven help us all from the nut that's been attacked with a hammer and screwdriver!

Does anyone have an illustration (preferably with part numbers) for the specialist workshop tools for the Bedford MK and MJ. All costs happily met.

Thanks

Mike.

I am indebted to Niceonetidy who e-mailed and sent on disc everything that I needed.  Also to the others who pm'd me with other offers. Thank you to you all.

Truly Grateful

Mike.

A while back, there used to be someone advertising the manuals for the Austin K9 on CD but now I can't find the ad. Does anyone either know who sells these or perhaps have a set that they don't want..

Thanks

Mike.

Hello Iain,

I've been following this with interest as think it will affect more vehicles than most of us ever thought. Could you tell me whether the MK3 Militant still used UNF bolts etc or if it had gone metric by then. Need to assist an owner with some work on his and would be useful to know upfront.

Thanks

Mike.

I have 9 of these unused wire bonds. The NSN is 2590 99 5353 398. They are approximately 1.3 metres long, 10 mm diameter and have properly reduced and soldered ends. All still with original grease impregnation so in perfect order. No idea what they fit - look like the sort of thing you could use for heavy duty axle straps etc. £2 each. 01277 222213

Mark,

I've got all of the manuals for the Foden so if there is any specific info that you want, I'm happy to scan and e-mail to you or photocopy and send. Just let me know and I will dig-out the relevant pages.

Mike.

Definitely not like the Foden Eka unit which has connections at each end and is oval.

Sam,

If you don't get any luck, a friend of mine has at least two good part worn tyres that he might be willing to part with.

Does anyone on the forum know Colvyn? I lent him the test equipment and manuals earlier this year and now can't get hold of him. He doesn't reply to e-mails or answer his mobile phone. Thought better of him and trusted him with this and not impressed.