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MIKES last won the day on March 7

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  1. The clips are known as bifurcated or split rivets. Can't help with the channel as always difficult to match imperial sizes. Have you tried F.H. Brundle? They have a very good website or might be able to suggest a supplier.
  2. Pure Scammell porn. Just wonder where they all went to. Looks like the slogging bit of the hub nut spanner is about 2 foot long.
  3. That's hopefully what mine will look like - watch this space!
  4. Thank you gentlemen for taking the time to reply. Radio Mike is spot-on with the 2 3/4" BSF size and I've decided to get a laser cut blank (about 1" thick) to suit and weld this to a piece of tube and add the hammer bar so it kind of replicates the genuine tool. Ploughman, unfortunately a slogging spanner won't work due to clashing with the wheel studs. Would have been a good solution otherwise.
  5. That could make sense as nut most unlikely to have been made to a metric dimension.
  6. Hello Gary, I measured the nut and it was spot on 100mm so a tad under 4" but if a 4" fits then perhaps that's what I should be hunting for. Have a large open ended spanner which has been opened-out to suit but even with an offset in the handle, it clashes with the wheel studs so can't be used square-on so less than ideal. Did wonder why the nut would be a metric size across the flats. The hub on this Explorer (not my one) didn't need a puller as the nut had been loose and the whole lot nearly fell off with the wheel. Where it had been loose, the two keys had taken a bit of a battering so I've had to buy some key steel and make new ones. I do have a home-made version of the original puller so hopefully will be useful. Cheers Mike.
  7. I need to make a hub nut spanner suitable for use on the Scammell Explorer rear hubs. I've got an illustration of the genuine TS.560 spanner to use as the basis but it would be useful to have some dimensions. Anyone have either a genuine one or home built copy that they could give some critical dimensions from? I know it's designed to be hit with a sledge hammer so needs to be substantial.
  8. Wanted, a set of genuine WD locking wire pliers. The sort that used to be sold in every surplus shop in the country! Also, some locking wire or clues as to what / where to buy.
  9. Being a 2 stroke diesel, assume that it is probably worn or broken rings causing the oil to be blown out the exhaust. Sounds like a rebuild would be the most economical way to proceed if you can get parts easily. Failing this, have you tried Jacksons at Doncaster? Might have to sell your sole to buy one though.
  10. Thanks Adrian, Amazed at the broad depth of knowledge of all things military that this forum has. Hopefully someone will come forward to claim it!
  11. A 1942 ammo box which is in good general condition. Unfortunately, has quite a bit of overspray on it from where it sat in a workshop but this would probably clean off. Stamped on the box is 'C190' 'IV' and n 'S' in an extended lozenge shape. The stenciled writing (best that I can make out) reads: 28 CTGS OF 2PDR H.V.M. k VIII GUN H.E. MK23 FOIL HV LINKED HSCT 134-055 RNC 3927 16.NO1 MK1 FLP GO Approx dimensions are: 21" long, 14" wide, 8" high. Anyone who have a suitable vehicle / gun to go with it? It's heavy duty so collection only for a donation to this site upkeep.
  12. Reminds me of the Father Ted episode where he damaged the prize car for the raffle and then attempted to tap out the dent.
  13. That is unfortunately why I stopped using metal jerry cans. The red paint came off unbeknown to me and caused no end of problems. I've given the plastic can a swill with diesel to get rid of the oil. Hopefully all will be well. I know that modern fuels which have a percentage of bio-ethanol in them can cause problems. Apparently the worst is fibreglass fuel tanks and modern petrol which attacks them.
  14. I recently was given a black 'plastic' 20 litre can which has the 'water' formed into the side of it. It was full of oil of an unknown grade which I've subsequently taken to the recycling at the local tip as definitely not worth risking it in anything I own. I can't use the can for water now but would like to use it for diesel. Does anyone have any experience of this. I don't want to put diesel in it if there is a chance of it effecting the can or contaminating the diesel. Just seems a pity to not be able to use the can.
  15. Correx sheet is typically used in the building industry for temporary protection to finished work etc. Can be bought from most good builders merchants or retrieved from skips! Think it is all class O flame retardant so handy when doing hot works.
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