Espressodude

Here is a pic of the front grill.

Thanks a bunch Andy!! That will help fabricate things close to correct...As usual there may be some "adjustments". And where the heck am I gonna find a box of spare 1/10 scale flashlight bulbs. I will print out the pics and peruse them over the cold weekend we have forecast. Wet and windy today 35 - 40f, then temps dropping to the teens... The larder is stocked, gas lanterns and stove fueled up, flashlights charged.

A few days late for the post, but my parents were married in Portland,Oregon December 7, 1941, noon local time. My dad had been in army ROTC, civil engineering; so was immediately called up. Sent to survey coastal transportation infrastructure, then build an airfield on ADAK Island(where spirit thermometers froze and broke, and diesel engines were NEVER turned off), then the ALCAN highway..... I heard of minus 70 degrees fahrenheit. I still have his footlocker, wool armycoat and liner, medals, and Sam Browne belt.

OK, next set of questions: 1.) What does the bed frame look like. I have a general idea of the rear section, but how about the the section that goes over the winch, and the front crossmember. 2.) I see on the left side a flip down gate/step. Got that figured. What about the other boxes. I see what appear to be hinges and latches, but can't determine what panels or parts of panels swing open. 3.) I bought some sticks of 1/8 x 3/8 inch spruce (1.25 x 3.75" scale) for the side boards, etc, along with some 1/8" 5-ply The main winch is servo controlled and holds over 20 feet (200ft scale)of braided fishing line. It is almost unstoppable, but slow. I may modify to add free spool and change to relay control because finding the servo neutral is, well, the Queen's Puppy. Yesterday was spent making the front grill, along with a trip to the boonies to TNW Firearms.....another project...1919A4 mg. Pics of the grill to follow.

Took time out today to take a few snaps of work in progress on the Scammell Explorer. Still waiting on 2 spur gears for the rear end, but it has progressed to 5 wheel drive. Got the front bumper and brackets on temporarily. May bore some larger holes in the ends to mount LED's. I have some extremely bright ones for headlights. Yesterday I modified an R/C servo to continuous rotation by cutting the stop out and mechanically disconnecting the position feedback potentiometer. This will run one of the winches via a worm gear / drum that I am now working on. :)note the teapot on top of the radiator:) Top tank isn't "correct" but that's the way it ended up.

WAHOO!! The Scammell is mobile under R/C control.....radio temporarily installed. Still only 4 wheel drive, but was able to shove around and eventually go over some 2" x 4" lumber ( 1.5 x 3.5 really). Lots of work left.(see previous posts)

Them old Dodges with the military tread ain't worth a Ford on ice.. Had my 41 WC-12 all chained up on all 4 tires; slid down the driveway half sideways, into the ditch. After I got off pavement(in the ditch) had plenty of traction. Back on pavement, slip and slide.. repeat....

Having owned a couple of Corvairs, I know about vehicles that tend to swap which end is in front. Also my 1941 Dodge WC-12 had quite a bit of roll induced steer that caused the front wheels to turn sharper as the body rolled. It was on the two right wheels (left ones not on the ground) at one time driving it around a decreasing radius left turn....

The quick progress is related to George Bushes economic program. I have been "on waivers" for about 8 months. I used to build industrial machinery particularly robotic work cells and other custom devices that make parts of other machines....most of my work was logic programming and prototyping, so I figure this is just keeping my skills current. No manufacturer in the U.S. is investing in new machinery now.......... Regarding the springing. I watched some of the videos online and realized the Scammells appear very top heavy. I now realise that only the rear springs offer roll resistance. With no roll resistance offered up front they must over-steer like crazy on the highway. No wonder 35 mph is fast enough!! The model will get more spring leafs in back when the hardware store gets more stock, and the front will become sprung. Regarding spanners; I have them up to about 2" and 3/4" drive socket set. Also 24" adjustable hammer. These work as a model building vise. The biggest problem so far was finding a 2mm tap locally, and then paying for it!! Good golly $15.00, and of course at that size ya better have a spare. Cab is primered now. Today will be the shopping for polycarbonate for windows, and more ABS for the hood(bonnet) and side flaps. The R/C hubs do not have a mounting area for fenders so the front tires will be bare for a while until I fabricate some brass hubs. thanks for the support!

OK, two subjects: 1.) Artillery simulators/kits/conversions see http://www.intlrepo-depo.com/simulators.htm they also have a lot of other goodies, but exporting may be a problem, or at least the importing of them.. I can give you the p/n for the valves they use (KIP brand, not UL listed) or the second set I used that is UL and FM listed 2.) Latest on Scammell Explorer project. It is mobile, but needs some shimming in the diffs. This was expected after some run in. also not all the idlers are in the walking beams, only the rear tires actually drive; in addition to the front. R/C steering and throttle needed yet. cab is ABS plastic

OKAY, I been severely whipped and confined to the gulag....well not really, but at the request of other members, future comments about Fire Appliances / Flame Effect Appliances will be here. Here is a link to a video, as requested. It is from 2007 and FOGBANK is a fixed piece of ordnance (presently has a trailer). Daytime firing. FOGBANK = Fuel Oxygen Gas Binary Acoustic Nimbo Kinetic transducer Propane and Oxygen + spark plug ignition. Video hosting site is a Burningman Arts Festival member camp and exploration there may cause loss of reality.... http://www.apokiliptika.com/iBM2007.mov file is about 8 meg and is slow to load. Format is Apple Quicktime Movie

yep, that's a good catch on the w/b. I was working from frame length scaled from a drawing of 18'3" I then ended up locating the rear axle too far aft resulting in too long of wheel base. Time to get the ruler and drill out and shift the rear axle forward. Thankfully frame rail stock is about $1.50 per ft so I can re-do and have some $ left for the teapot. Found a 1/2" tubing compression fitting that uses an almost spherical ring that will work for a first try at a ball joint. And it was in the spare/scrap bin! 1/2" scale = 5" dia tube inside the ball, about 7+" sphere dia, and the r/c model ball bearings fit inside the tube!!! Also working on a transmission mount.

:coffee: thanks for the pdf. I see the ball (35T206) that the whole front world revolves around, sandwiched between two square plates, 35T208 & 35T209. These plates look like they are bolted to the larger plate 35T25 using the inner set of holes. Does 35T25 bolt to the frame using the outer 4 holes? I may cheat somewhat on this assembly and not bother creating 1/10 scale British Whitworth 0.0372" x 46.5tpi threads and save that time for the rear mechanical braking system!:rofl:

Last couple days of fabrication has the front axle spring hangers fabricated and attached to the axle. Also attached to the front axle are the radius arms. I have found several pictures that show this attachment and I replicated this with a ring of eight 2mm socket head screws. Not exact model/copy, but the appearance is similar. The radius arms at this point are way overlength and the termination at the aft end is an unknown. The only image I have is the Explorer on it's side with a copper standing in front of the transfer case. I have read about a phosphor bronze ball / socket arrangement also. At the aft end of the radius arms appears to come into a box beam shape. Does this enclose the driveline at this point? With a U-joint inside the box similar to really old Fords that had enclosed drivelines as a thrust tube that ended on the back of the tranny? Pictures or manual shots would be very helpful at this point. Thanks for your help gang!!

OK gang, here is the latest status on the model Scammell Explorer project. The frame is temporary angle and will be replaced with some on hand channel and flatbar to complete boxing along the center. The rear gearboxes work and the diffies are functional. next phase is the front suspension and locating links that extend to the rear. Are the front springs pinned to the axle or do the just sit in the pockets and slide a little?

Thanks for the pdf's. Good details. The rear of rear springs is like I thought, sliding (barely) on 30T22. 30T24 & 30T25 keep the spring from falling out if it goes "wheels up"

Questions about Scammell Explorer rear leaf spring attachment to the frame. The front of the spring has a rolled eye that is bolted to an fixed "shackle" or link. This locates the spring and axle relative to the frame. Most other leaf spring vehicles have a pivoting link on the rear. (1) Does the rear link pivot? (2) Or does the leaf spring slide along the cast iron shoe bolted in the middle of the rear link, and the the lower bolt keep the spring from hopping out of the link? Also, frame cross section appears to be about 4" x 10" in the photos. (3) Is this close? or is it ? x ? Guesstimates and assumptions are made from the 1:48 scale drawings available on the previous mentioned site with the Hi-quality model; then trying to scale other dementions from photos. My model won't be as accurate, but will be a powered RC model. Rear axle housing with diff. is mostly done, gears work. Fabrication was way easier to make the rear housing like the front housing. Barrel shaped instead of a round bottom pot. Walking beam housings are mostly done awaiting spur gears and final fit of bearing pockets. Parts are 1:10 scale RC model parts from Tamiya(diff) and Traxxis(spurs) Ball bearings are 5 x 11 x 4 mm at about 1.50usd each.

If that's the case, it probably gets about 200mpg of petrol, and IF it gets stuck, you can lift it out by hand and take it home in the lunchbucket! EspressoDude..Espresso only, no foo-foo frappa-crappa latte swill for me. Picked up a 1/10 scale front axle today for $38.00, got it apart, mic'd for rear axle housing fabrication.. Sample of spur gears for rear walking beam $3.00

did some looky-loo at the toys...no articulation..and expensive The Dinky 661 asking price on ebay $162.00 usd Thats enuff to put a quarter tank of fuel in a real one!! Or buy Tamiya axles and wheels and tires for scratchbuilt rc Garage space is an issue for a real one.....2 cars, motorcycle, a battlebot, two oxy propane artillery pieces: 155mm and 20mm gatling (scratchbuilt simulators but VERY LOUD) Off to hobby-land..................

Hi: A couple weeks ago I ran across a pic of a Scammell Explorer, and thought "what a ugly, impractical, heavy fuel hog"......I want one! Well common sense won over. I know how time consuming and $$ eating these kind of projects can be. I restored a 1941 Dodge WC-12 many years ago, when there was an old army truck per square mile of farm land. Parts were not too hard to come by. (the original chassis/cab purchase was $60.00). Scamell's in northwest USA... not a chance, and I would end up with the whole house to myself and having to cook my own meals, and laundry. Vetoed by higher authority.. But something in the works is a scratch built 1/10 scale model RC version... lots of sketches scaling up the 1/48 scale dwgs found online. Is there a model builders forum I haven't here, or where should one get started thx