Gordon_M

Would look good in the back of a Dennis or Thornycroft

Given the dates and the condition of them, I couldn't think of anywhere more appropriate.

I'll bet they were 2d or 3d each when they were new, though... :cool2:

Tch, think about turning a starting handle by hand ... It turns easily till it is on compression and then you need maximum leverage, so there will have been some sort of rolling starter bearing on the outside of that rubber.

When it is at the 'close to the crankshaft' part of the orbit you will have maximum turning speed, when it is at the 'furthest from the crankshaft' part of the orbit you will have maximum leverage for the compression part of the cycle.

..... and before you ask " why didn't they just make it one big diameter then, to get the same leverage / applied power all round" that would reduce the overall RPM considerably and reduce the chances of a start.

Very sneaky - not stupid, our ancestors.

Good to see you Patrick, welcome, and good luck with your new venture.

Please pass our thanks and best wishes on to Dennis too, as he has served the community well for many years.

Gordon McMillan

Aberdeen ( the real one, not the US one ... )

You are absolutely right, just build it and try it.

It's not like you will be running it with a full load, and the higher octane fuel will affect it too. Worst case you'll be machining a stepped key, rather than reworking any original parts.

You are right Matthew, anything that can be made, can be faked, but the amount of effort involved is proportionally greater that faking the other two stamps, which could be bought over the counter.

The star stamp is therefor the most significant of the bunch.

First, if it is a typical US unit, if it isn't working it'll be junk. You can graft another sender bulb and so on, but I'm assuming you have decided the whole think is junk? If not patience is your only tool.

The standard construction is to have a threaded forged ring retaining a sheetmetal bulb into a cast head. Many times there is an adapter ring in there too, so you just have to decide what you can save and butcher the rest out. The really important thing is not to damage the head casting.

Freezing, heating, penetrant ( Plus Gas or Kroil, NOT WD40 ) even cleaning, heating, and covering in candle wax seems to work as the wax get drawn down the thread.

Good luck with it.

Hi Niek, good to see you here.

I'm sure I'll get there for a visit some time.

Unusual place to place it upon the rear.

Doug

 

Not really. It needs a location that can quickly and easily be checked by eye without opening doors, hatches, getting down on the ground or whatever. Case in point is where he is stamping that D8A, passengers side extreme rear corner.

This mark is essentially meaningless as soon as the truck leaves the production facility, as it is only an authorisation / acceptance mark.

It is common to have one designated area for these stamps, and to place several there to ascertain that various tasks had been done, for example W. could be a complete chassis mechanical inspection, N. could be body and so on, and the star the customers acceptance. I have the odd company hard stamp myself somewhere but they are going out of fashion now.

Thanks for that. Never used the process myself.

I did note in the images above that the cotter pin is straining the soldered joint, so I'm assuming it has considerable strength.

While I couldn't do the detail work I would certainly just have welded the two components together if it was going to resist a cotter pin, but I remember the same technique all over the Dennis and it seems to work nicely.

If I see marking like that, especially if it is on an exposed corner of the completed vehicle, I always assume it to be stamping to show that it has passed an inspection of some sort.

It could be W.N. and a star, or the W. N. and star might have been applied at varying times during the build. The star is the non-standard stamp ( the difficult / impossible one to get / forge ) so that will be the offical sign-off for whatever process it was.

Here's the same thing on a Dodge T212 D8A at a Canadian plant, though probably staged specially for the camera;

Last one is a 1.5 ton K-44 Earth Augur truck.

Hello,

I confess that I am no real fan of military stuff. I am a German photographer and had the chance to visit a remote place in Greenland, where I found the left gear of an US-base. As the whole place with the old rusty vehicles inmidst a remote and phantastic scenery was so surrealistic, I was able to get some interesting images. Now I intend to make a photographic book with these images. Therefore I need the help of the competent members of this forum. I think, just a nice picture is not enough, an explanation with facts to the photographed vehicles is absolute necessary. The images show the vehicles of which I need information, perhaps some images may show the same vehicle. Maybe you can appreciate my images, I would appreciate every information, so trademark, horsepower, construction period, specialities and so on [ATTACH=CONFIG]72295[/ATTACH] Dodge pickup, 41-47 pattern

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72296[/ATTACH] No idea, but nice ....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72297[/ATTACH] Ford 1.5 ton, 1942 pattern

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72298[/ATTACH]Same Ford, from the back maybe ?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72299[/ATTACH] Could be 1.5 ton Dodge WF, 1941-47

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72300[/ATTACH]Dont know, but want one

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72301[/ATTACH] Still don't know

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72302[/ATTACH] Ford 1.5 ton, 1942 pattern, started as a SnoGo blower truck

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72303[/ATTACH] Dodge pickup, 41-47 pattern

 

With kind regards,

Sven Amundsen

I think the really heavy chain drive units might b be rarer Mack variants but don't have source material to hand

Good stuff.

I hope you'll be asking the nice people at Clyde Union if they can identify the spot. I'm not standing in for the roofers. though.

G

Very nice, and you are not so far away that you couldn't tow it up here to God's country to put it back in the production line area for a photo or two.

There are enough original parts / features of the wartime buildings still there to allow you to do that. Might have to wheel it round the odd coffee machine or million pound CNC unit, but the basic building are the same, including the rail lines in the floor.

Do any of the copyrighted images have a decent positioning shot of a Pheasant with a chunk of the works buildings in the background, inside / outside?

You might be right Adrian. Do you think someone is doing the Johnny Cash version ? :-D

I'll put my Engineering Surveyors hat on here and risk pronouncing that all the metal you can see there is brand new.

I'd guess they are going to build one from the ground up using mild steel, hopefully outfitted with as many original bits as can be sourced.

I believe four survive, none in running condition ( yet ) I think these were actually US chassis, Canadian Welles-Thornton back bogies, and English workshop bodies the same as those fitted to the Austin K6 except for the mounting dimensions.

The Ashby clan have the remains of three in varying condition, and know of one more in mainland Europe.

This my favourite WK60 image, but I assume he didn't have it very long;

Back blast profile of a weapon, recoilless something ?

We are here, now;

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/

Gordon

I'll admit proper tyre filler would be better than builders foam, but you get the idea. Obviously not for road use.

When I needed similar tyres for my K-38 splicer trailer, I had to option of £300 each for Firestone reproductions or £30 each for Malaysian ones. Went with the cheap option.

Kegresse, built by Citroen between the wars and used by French Army, Foreign Legion, and all the huntin' shootin' fishin' types in the UK with a country estate

Because they were relatively rare and got limited use they have a very high survival rate - I've never heard of one being scrapped.

I'd go on the basis that you'd never get them off and on again without damage to the tyres. If the tyres are important to you, just take the rims with tyres still on and get them bead-blasted then paint the rims. Bead blasting shouldn't hurt them.

External rubber protection is best provided by the rubber primer available for house roof repairs. It is clear, gooey, and once it cures you can't shift it - be warned. A coat of that would fill cracks and splits. If you need them to hold weight I'd be tempted to 'inflate' them with builders polyurethane foam or the like, for a run flat effect.

Short body side with longer running board for driver access, the last production variant I think. I remember there were four or five body variants with long or short left sides, different depths and the increased amount of wood in the construction, plus big fuel filler.

Cor - it might have been cheap but it was rubbish. I don't care how intelligent our ancestors were, you'd have to be mad to do that. :nut: Wonder what the in-service failure rate was?

I suspect the new, improved Gosling model will be a bronze yoke, steel roller, and two steel pins, with the inner one retained by grub screws, caps, or even peening.

I've done that job and it's no fun, see here ...

http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/td20.htm

Best solution is a donor cab section. That particular section is common to all 39-47 Dodge US, Canadian, military, and civilian hard cabs.

To do it 'right' you have to open the doors and drill out the gutter spot welds, do the same for the inner wiper panel, and then you can get into that joint and rework it. The roof seam is a triple panel. there is a back bit, a front bit, and the original seam is kind of a 'Z' shaped bit of tin which was spot welded to one side, and then the lot spot welded together. Have to say the originals I've taken apart were very approximate too.

The screen pillar sides are very solid (= thick ) but the roof isn't. If you had a donor cab you could split it at the top of the firewall and just fit the lot, which would save having to relocate the screen accurately.