Gordon_M

There's no turret, the big round thing is the aircraft engine. The armament was a Bren gun with the gunner stood on his seat leaning out of a hatch.

 

Why do I get the image of Corporal Jones hanging out the window and shouting Don't panic, Captain Mainwaring !

I think that sums it up neatly.

Almost every part is to the original early 1900's design, though some materials and manufacturing processes have been improved or substituted. Not seeing a problem :angel:

That's probably the nicest original I've seen, and having a good set of original tyres too.

One hint you may, or may not, have considered. These tyres are antiques and I assume that leaving them out in sunlight ( such as we get in this country ) would kill them fairly quickly.

I think your purchase has spent the majority of its life inside away from sunlight, you might want to store it inside too and just expose it to the UV at shows.

Nice thing, tho'

Actually the DVLA has a cunning plan for the originality measurements.

You get so many points for an original chassis, and so many for an original engine, and so on. There is a total above which you have an 'original' vehicle and below which you don't.

I think it is set up that way so that if you took Dennis, dumped the original chassis for whatever reason, made a new chassis, and rebuilt all the original parts on the new chassis you could still qualify as having an 'original' vehicle.

I'm sure for 'originality' purposes you could substitute a different engine number or whatever and it would still get the points, as long as the replacement was contemporary with the original.

Surely the brand new galvanised chassis for old Land Rovers would be an illustration of this - all original except for the chassis, but allowed to retain the original plate.

Waiting to hear

You would join it differently if it was welded, of course. You'd grind a V butt on the disc, locate it, and then just fill it with weld, so effectively you would have as much weld surface joint as the soldering.

I can see it does a wonderful joint, but there has to be a limit somewhere where you say 'sorry, but we need to weld that' like a major structural joint, for example.

I addition a good weld will hold to the melting point of the parent metal - and I'd guess that silver solder gives up at a much lower temperature, especially when stressed.

That's nice work, but you are at it again with that silver solder. All that lot could have been welded together quite easily and I'm sure the assembly would have been stronger, though admittedly not as neat.

Never had a silver soldered stressed joint come apart?

Gordon

Interesting. Note the R showing that hub and housing are assembly marked either for operation, concentricity, or balance.

It does look to be in better order.

Well, yes, of course all the info is on the WW2 Dodge Forum, but in simple terms.

A 3/4 ton Command had only two upholstery options, real leather or OD canvas - NOTE that vinyl or artificial leather is not an option.. The changeover is by chassis number but real leather lasted until at least mid-42 - don't have the cutoff date to hand.

The map table info is even easier - it is marine plywood and the thickness, width, and height that will slide-fit between the runners. The related hardware is limited to one brass pull handle that can be seen in the original shots, top centre, and two metal hooks screwed on the bottom corners that stop it pulling all the way out.

The chassis number cutoff points and illustrations of all the bits are in the Master Parts List - a must-have for Dodge tinkerers.

General agreement here that you need to crack check it, MPI or Dye Penetrant. I'd guess you'd see enough crack that you would want to take it off and fix it, presumably full penetration weld from one side, followed by grinding it out from the other side and building it up there before machining / grinding flat.

Here's a question for you. Why did it crack, and why there? If this was a truck with an electric starter, where the engine always tended to stop in the one position and then get starter engagement at exactly the same point every time, I could see why it might crack in one location, but presumably this truck doesn't have that luxury.

Is it already distorted ? It might not just be cracked, but might be showing a crack where the housing has tried to pull away from the centre fixing. Might be worth lathing it for a quick concentricity / distortion check first.

Sizes, always sizes ...

These threads are American and for once they are not silly. I vaguely remember that an NPT male plug has the same thread pitch as the PARALLEL UNF thread of the same size, so if you have a UNF tube connector, you can just bung a suitable NPT plug in it without wrecking the threads. I expect you could put a UNF parallel plug in an NPT female too.

The thread form is different, different angle, mostly different threads per inch than UK stuff and definitely different from anything that says metric on it.

I've managed to find all the US threaded components, parallel and tapered, that I've needed over the years. I reckon many of them are easier / more available than the older UK ones.

Apparently the radius rods and transverse spring tie it to a Ford TT application

First opinion, from Hamish in New Zealand;

Got a request for an axle ID from Pat Holscher, who runs the Society of the Military Horse Forum.

Have a look at the axle and post if you can identify it please. I've included Pat's blog link too.

Image source blog.

Gordon

Aberdeen

Scotland

There were a couple of rusty ordinary carriers up here, don't know of a T16 though

We'll need plenty of pics, take your point on those idler mounts.

I'm a big fan of rivetted construction - when I don't have to replace it. My Snow Tractor roof is aluminium sheet held to the steel frame with a couple of hundred 3/16" rivets. Individually they are not a problem, but my attempted repairs round the corroded edges of the roof sheets ( it is absolutely fine in the middle, of course ) just look like mince, so it is all coming off. I'll be riveting the roof back on, but this time I'll be using mild steel sheet so at least I can weld it too.

I don't know of any T-16s up this way, in fact I only know Nigel Watson up here with a carrier, but at one time every Scottish estate had one or more tracked carriers of some kind.

At least you'll be able to put it together with sensible welding and not endless rivets. Do the front idlers hand on just those few visible bolts?

I vaguely remember that the Farand and Delorme tracked armoured Snowmobile and the Penguins derived from it both used the T-16 drive / transmission unit too.

....

but when I last spoke to him he said the major stumbling block was finding anything to go inside and also knowing 'what' exactly to start to look for, never mind the problem of actually finding any of it

 

PS: according to the web there's one apparently in the Imperial War Museum ...not sure if it is still kitted out internally though....

I believe the IWM unit is complete. Of course he could just ask me for copies of the original interior layout illustrations, which I have somewhere ....

Gordon

Hmm, not subtle, but effective ...

( Not that 500 bar is high pressure, testing at over 3100 barg here in Aberdeen. )

Don't know about the MOD part, but HYDRASUN in Aberdeen deal with this stuff all day for big oil industry stuff.

Well, not Porter, or you would have said, but within a few years of 1797 then.

I'm going to leave the alcoholic variations to others, happy to be around half a century out.:blush:

Having done this on smaller, but no less stubborn, hubs, I'd agree that you need to put tension on it and then impact it as well.

It seems to be the combination of tension and impact that does it

Well it has to be alcohol of some sort, doesn't it?

I'll guess at Porter, 1750, as the use of the long S went out around 1800.

Gordon

The little I know about it suggests it would be more difficult to build up existing rubber.

Take a carrier wheel, cut or burn the existing rubber off it, blast and prime, then just hand it to the rubber place. They will have a cross section they can glue on or wind on till it it the correct size, then they autoclave it till it is nicely cooked.

Fitting slightly less rubber, or a different cross-section, might be a hair cheaper but ultimately more fiddly that just replacing the lot, especially if you were doing several wheels.

Hmm, jury still out then It would certainly act as a resilient mounting point .... Here was me thinking it was cleverer than that. Looking at the way it is bolted to that workmanlike steel frame I cant see it needing a mount, unless something else drove through it / round it / in line with it.

Gordon,

 

May we have a sketch please? I think what you are proposing all sounds a bit too fanciful!

 

Barry.

Cor, if only we had an on-screen sketch tool Barry ...

I'm just suggesting that's how it works - if I'm looking at the image right that very much suggests itself, can't really state it in much more detail.

Think about turning an engine over by hand to start - you want it to turn quickly, but when it is on compression you slow down as the load rises - I just see this eccentric as a way round that.

Gordon