Hutch3674

Hi Rob,

seats were done by a local company called Second Time around, £100.00 a piece, they have padded out the back rests on mine as I only had a hard metal backrest on previous ones.

Tyres are from a Stalwart in County Cavan, I will put the 6 alloys wheels up on eBay later on. It has given me 6 spare tubes and rust flaps so I'm happy with the rest.

Next leave I am going to remove all wheels for shot blasting and along with the brake drums, he mentioned dry power coating is that OK for brake drums? as for the wheels he will prime them and I will paint Olive green again.

Hutch

Seats look brilliant, was that someone local to you? And what did they cost, I've got to get my tanker ones done. Good result on finding all those tyres

Hi Gents,

Just an up date on the Mighty Militant MKI (38EP19), after a great three weeks at home on leave and almost as much time spent on Milly I managed to pass the MOT for the 2nd time. Happy days, prior to the MOT I got time to check all brake shoes and re-welded the "Anti Screech" rings back on to the rear four drums.

I also secured a good deal on 6 part worn tyres with in an hour or so from home. I did managed to change one tyre which was pointed out to me last year on MOT, so I was chuffed to bits having replaced it.

The two seats which I was having refurbished arrived the day before MOT, Phew! great job. I will need to adjust the passengers seat as the engine cover is rubbing against the seat which had caused most of the unnecessary damage to the old seat covering.

Looking forward to removing all wheels and brake drums next leave and replacing the odd tyre or two. I certainly forgot how hard the tyre bashing was back in 88 on the Stalwart. I did notice the rust flap had June 68 stamped on it, Made in England too.

Gents,

any one have the correct tyre pressures for the AEC Militant MKI?

Thanks in advance

Hutch

Hi Gents,

any help in re-wiring the indicators and four ways as all I have is a continuous orange light. I have a new relay and flasher unit.

Not sure what all the connectors on relay are for either, help appreciated. MOT Thursday.

I managed to secure 6 good as new tyres from County Cavan, 60 miles form home, happy days. I had one tyre picked up on last MOT, so I will change that one for this time round and try to get the rest done next leave rotation. I would prefer to shot blast wheels prime and repaint, along with brake drums. More time needed.

I did manage to remove all 20 red rim nuts after deflating the tyre and removing the valve, we use to toss the wheel over a few times and the rim normally fell out. However today as I bent to lift the wheel I realised that like me it had put some weight on too. Using a 6 foot fence post I managed to get the wheel upright and after two or three attempts the rims separated.

Roll on Monday to get the new be tyre on and then its indicators and MOT wash.

Any help on electrics for indicators very much appreciated, thanks again in advance

Hutch

Cheers, thanks very much for your comment.

Hutch

The linings do look good but the adjusters are on/near the last holes.

 

There are three levels of adjustment: 1 the holes in the arm, 2 the position of the arm spline on the camshaft, 3 (if the linings are quite worn - yours don't seem to be) fitting packing plates (various thicknesses were available) under the shoe ends.

 

The important thing is that, given the slack is taken up, the cams don't rotate more than about 45° from the closed position - or they risk going over-centre and dropping the shoes or locking the wheel.

 

If the linings are quite new, maybe the current setup is what the fitter found to be best to start with.

 

I believe that the linings should be 3/4 inch thick when new. Hope this helps.

Phil

Good day Gents,

Just home again and I'm am getting Milly already for another MOT on the 24th March, priority one was to check the front brakes which I thought were worn out as the adjusters I believed to be on the final hole of adjustment. I am now thinking is this the first hole of adjustment as both sides of the brake shoes seem to be in near new condition. I would appreciate you thoughts on this one again, I am chuffed if I done have to remove them for re placement.

Noted, Roger that!

Hutch

Awesome Result,

Thanks I am guessing they would only require a liberal amount of EP2 (1 Pump), to keep them free and serviceable.

Hutch

Hello I've just had a look on my militant and mine has the same from left to right reads CLUTCH PIVOT. CLUTCH STOP PIVOT. HAND LEVER PIVOT. PEDAL SHAFT.

Good evening Troops,

Just wondered if there is in existence a servicing schedule for the AEC Militant MKI (1966)? If so, can I get a copy of it? My Milly has several grease points on the chassis and little brass plates but no writing or print on them, just wondered if anyone had a clue about each of them.

As always Thanks in advance

Hutch

Many thanks MatchFuzee,

really appreciate your help

Hutch3674

See Annex 3 Brake Test Calculations (page 11) for the explanation:-

 

http://www.gea.co.uk/docs/264.pdf

Hi Rob,

many thanks again, and I would really appreciate the help sheet (Idiot's guide) to adjust the brakes. I have until 25 April to rectify and improve on last years results.

I am also looking forward to getting into the brake drums and improving the overall efficiency of Milly.

Thanks a Million again, a happy man Hutch3674

Hi Hutch,

 

The WWW. page recommended by Matchfuzee does a very good technical description of the procedure on how to test and how the calculations are worked out, but it doesn't really explain how to read the results page, which if you are not familiar with them they can be difficult to understand.

 

Briefly it goes like this. Brake effort is what the brakes actually achieved at test. Service or footbrake at the top, axle one being the front, 2 and 3 are middle and rear. Then parking brake underneath, middle and rear axles.

 

Imbalance is the difference between the readings across each axle. A big imbalance will make the vehicle pull to one side. Brake fluctuation will show any ovality of the brake drum.

 

The figures on the right of the page show the standards the vehicle must achieve. E.G. The maximum imbalance permitted is 30%

 

I would suggest it is unlikely that your test would have been carried out with less than sufficient air pressure. The VOSA Examiner will normally give the driver time to replenish air pressure in between each axle test.

 

Should you check and adjust your brakes? I would if it were mine. The Off Side 3rd axle reading is much higher than the other 3 rear axle readings. Not only is a 28% imbalance across the axle very close to failure, but on a Militant the brake effort between the 2nd and 3rd axle should be considered, and yours is bad on the off side.

 

If you need it I can send you a "how to" sheet for adjusting the rear brakes it's not that complicated but you do need to do it in the right sequence.

Good day Gents,

I was looking over my recent MOT Certificate from April 2016, I was a bit baffled about the figures on the brake test as per attached picture. I would be grateful if someone can explain the figures. I thought maybe I should take the time to remove the four rear wheels and brake drums to check the condition of the shoes, and adjust/change as necessary.

Also after the test I discovered that the low air warning buzzer in the cab had been disconnected (At the air tank). I was thinking maybe the whole brake test had been carried out whilst Milly had insufficient air pressure.

I will have a go at removing the low air sensor on the bottom of the air tank (60 PSI) and see if I can be cleaned & freed off, as I have had no joy in finding a new one. (Anyone done this?)

Once again Gents many thanks in advance, Happy New Year to you all.

Hutch3674

Yep That's them, The last photo of the rear right wheel station is pretty much the condition of all my brake drums. I will get them welded up before April, and that will be the end of this issue. Cheers & thanks again.

Hutch

Do you mean these:

 

 

 

 

?

 

In an earlier image, it's noticeable at least one isn't so well attached:

 

Good day again Gents,

having spent the last few days deep in thought about what I will be doing to my Millitant on my return in the New year, after looking at my Job / Questions list, I have come up with 3 questions to quiz my fellow Militant owners with :-

1. Tyre pressures all round 60 PSI? (Advised by two Milly owners)

2. Do the brake drums come straight off after the wheel has been removed, or do they require a puller type tool or some mild persuasion?

3. On my two rear axles around the (4) brake drums, there are rings, I thought these rings were like scraper rings to keep mud to a minimum, The MOT inspector thought that they should be welded up, I can see from photos on 0-5-2 thread that they are welded at various points around the drum. Do they serve any purpose and should I follow the same pattern prior to my next MOT?

Once again Gents, many thanks in advance

Hutch

Many thanks for the above, I did see on the "B Vehicle Data Card" DIS 7/66 & (4/4/64) I was happy for the test to be carried out, as I was unfamiliar with the AEC Militant MKI, and as it passed I was happy about the brakes and other safety features. So I will see what comes of it next year.. Thanks

Hutch, it's not really to do with the EU. Any vehicle which is not otherwise exempt must have an MoT; that's always been the law since roadworthiness testing was introduced. The Goods Vehicle (Plating and Testing) Regulations have an exemption for vehicles manufactured before 1 January 1960, used unladen and not drawing a laden trailer. More recently, harmonisation with EU regulations meant that this was extended to all pre-1960 vehicles, not just goods vehicles.

 

Brooky obviously assumed your Militant was pre-1960 which is why his question - and indeed it may well be, but the licencing authorities often use the date into service (DIS) given by the MoD as the date of manufacture, and in reality the two are not always the same. I'd guess your 1966 date came from MoD disposal documentation, or the previous owner?

 

You're right that this might now change; further EU harmonisation has resulted in a consultation, which ended last month, about further changes to the law. The option favoured by the Ministry is to change to a rolling 40 year exemption, which would make pre-1976 vehicles exempt as of current date. However there may be some wrinkles to it, as there is some thought of introducing a basic safety test, and scoring vehicles for originality per the procedure for registering heavily modified and kit built vehicles

 

 

The proposed changes are here:

 

https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/roadworthiness-testing-for-vehicles-of-historic-interest

Hello, my name is Rainer and I am from Hameln, Town of the Pied Piper in Germany.

 

I am a bit army barmy and my main area of interest is the cold war, especially the big 80s exercises. When Lionheart 84 took place I was 14 years old and was always out and about.

Until last year I used to have an Ex MoD 110 which unfortunately I had to sell after 13 years for time reasons. But in the future when the kids are a bit older I surely want something green in the garage again.

 

Regards from Germany

 

Rainer

 

(ChieftainMK12 is just wishful thinking...)

Hi Rainer,

"56 Ton of Punch" we use to say back in the day.

In Hutch's other thread he gives the D.I.S. as 1966.

Hi Sean,

After importing the vehicle to the UK, I had to declare vehicle to HMRC, they informed me there was no duty to pay as they had no interest in the vehicle, I then proceeded to get the vehicle registered with the DVLA.

They cam back to me with "The said vehicle needs and MOT" new legislation from eu hq, any vehicle built after 1960 requires an MOT. I am hoping this will change back to the old ways soon.

Hutch

No they don't have master switches as a rule, tanker has one 'cos it's a fuel carrier, I fitted to one on the timber tractor 'cos they are a good idea. There is a fuse in the generator control box, the only one on a standard Milly although there are circuit protection coils in the slave socket box. I'll dig out a picture of the fuse in question this evening for you

Cheers, very much appreciated.

Hutch

Glad to be of help, mate. Have you seen the blog for my timber tractor? There's some good pictures on there that may be of use too

Another pile of photos I have saved for my own self help, I have to take my hat off to you on the work completed on that project, awesome well done. I see you had a problem I have with the discharge light remaining on, I changed the dash board and ignition switch over and I guess I should have disconnected the batteries, so a few sparks have left me with a permanent red discharge light on, so I will wait until January when I get home again. I did have a peep into that Panel Generator NoI and I was looking for fuses but I didn't see any, so I am not sure if there are any on my Milly, also I see all Militants have a master switch which I haven't got either. Any light on this problem would be much appreciated.

Hutch:-D

Thanks for posting the pictures, Hutch, that looks like a very nice motor you've got there. Years MOT on it as well can't be bad

Cheers Mate,

I saved a few of your pictures of the tanker cab, I find them handy for doing jobs, in areas I have not ventured before.

Hutch:-D

They are fixed in place by captive nuts on the padding backing and bolts or screws not sure which, that are on the outside of the cupola. There are three per pad. No doubt rusted solid.

Cheers & Thanks

:-D

Thanks Gents,

what a site, my own living User Handbook.

Hutch:-D

Hi Gents,

just wondering if anyone has removed the cupola padding from the passenger's side of roof, and if so how are they secured? Mine are in a bad state and would be in need of recovering.

Great pictures and a lovely find too, I see a tool box similar to my picture by the passenger's front wheel (Photo of No Tow Hook 31-12-2015). Just wondering if it was part of the Tankers C.E.S, just a thought.

Just to add to the confusion - there are no boxes in my cab either! I have plywood removable bases in the angle iron frames behind the seats (removable for access to the batteries) and that is all.

 

Now - having said that - I definitely remember storage bin in the cabs on the Mk 1 tippers we had in 215 RCT(V) - but - I have a recollection they were sheet steel and had padlock hasps on so the bins could be secured. Unfortunately I have no photos from those days Might have been because there were no external lockers on the vehicles (3-way tippers)

Thanks again,

I have the plywood base too, and its painted green to match the interior. I have meet an ex RCT Lad who did say that the tool boxes were handy as they use to lay wood/stretcher across for a bed at night. I have seen a box with AEC on it for sale once, I will attach the picture. I am looking for boxes similar to the attached one. (Local manufacture comes to mind here). I can get the measurements form the frames and use this picture as a template.