Surveyor

Tony

Thanks 

Ask at a local stable, think leather is still used for saddles, 

If see it again will see if I can get MoD registration, just being curious

I was at a Farmers market near St Monan's and spotted this vehicle which has been adapted, purist's may go ARRGGGHH, but at least it is still working.

1 hour ago, johnwardle said:

No, it was to show up oil leaks as they are easier to see against a light background.

1 hour ago, johnwardle said:

No, it was to show up oil leaks as they are easier to see against a light background.

Obvious now you say it, thanks

I will admit curiousity, why paint engines eau-de-nil? Was it due to low light?

BBC article on Muslims in WW1 also we can remember those of all religions in all conflicts

Wonder what they look like at night, with a sensitive light

True I remember that last one you shared on the forum

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-gloucestershire-46155057

18 hours ago, eddy8men said:

i was due to take part in this series but they asked me too late and we just couldn't get anything in place before the filming started, however on a plus note i have 4 tanks to dig up when i get the time

When you know where and when I am sure you will get helpers even just making tea

Just seen second series starts in UK history channel on 12 November

Apparently first one is a WW1 special

Wonder if the last person thought to expensive to revert back

Heard about that on way down to work didn't realize it was Anchor, got bits from them, found they were very helpful

On ‎10‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 3:55 PM, Ted170 said:

Have you considered electrolysis? The result is as good as with the molasses, just the time it takes is like 2, 3 or 4 hours instead of 10 days. I am pretty sure you know it, but anyway - a bucket full of water with a couple of spoons of caustic soda /NaOH/ in it, the piece you want to clean, a useless piece of metal /about the same size as the one to clean/ and a car battery charger. Put the metals in the water solution /separated, not touching/, the useless iron connected to + wire and the part to be cleaned connected to - wire /that's important/. A slow reaction with miniature bubbles takes place and after 2-4 hours /depends on the size of the piece and the rust thickness/ the rust and dirt are lose, leaving clean metal surface. Same procedure of cleaning and painting follows, as after a molasses bath. There is black residue on the metal which must be removed by wire wheel or just water and a brush. Needs to be painted as soon as possible, as the metal surface is chemically clean and very easily starts to rust. What is important, the reaction has no effect on the good metal! Only the rust is removed, but the good metal is untouched! Also, bolts that are "welded" by rust and wouldn't move or would break, can be removed much easier after the electrolysis.

But don't use it on aluminum, zinc, etc. Use it on iron, steel, cast iron, also I believe it would not harm brass, although have not tried it on brass so far. The solution is a bit harmful to the hands, if too rich of soda, mostly stings any wounds on the fingers and gives some soapy feeling to the skin, but a hands wash instantly fixes that. Also, it is not aggressive to the drain, in fact the caustic soda is used for ages, for cleaning clogged drains - and this solution is very diluted.

    If you have some skills in the field of electricity, you can make the electricity adjustable, for best reaction. Or, you can do it like me /having no such sills/ - adding water or NaOH until getting the best solution, allowing strongest reaction without burning the car battery charger. BTW I have seen in the net that people use PC power units or specially built power units for the electrolysis. I always use car battery charger and the result is excellent.

I understand that the sacrificial metal connected to the positive and negative need to be different size from the metal you are trying to clean,

Lot of interesting stuff on there

7 minutes ago, Tarland said:

Explanation of the Bridge Class system can be found here:

Think Defence - Bridge Load Classification

The link for the book would appear to be broken

5 hours ago, fv1609 said:

I know that by 1909 it was the responsibility of a general staff officer at the approach to a bridge to give instructions to commanders of units about the suitability of the crossing. By 1911 the responsibility of giving the bridge a load classification passed to the engineers in the unit constructing the bridge. They were required to indicate at each end of the bridge the greatest permissible load but this was not yet numerical.

By 1939 all bridges where classed according to the maximum weight of a vehicle in tons giving the following Classes 5, 9, 12, 18 or 24. Bridge classes applied not just to fixed bridges but to pontoon bridges as well.

So if bridges were classed by 1939, presumably vehicles were marked up accordingly?

 

 

I seem to recall there was a publication for working out what the bridge could carry, not sure who was responsible for checking, may have it some where, if it was electronic its the kind of thing I would down load

What are your plans for the vehicle, get them road running?

6 hours ago, Morris C8 said:

But you could ask

Depending on shipper

Any chance of some photos

49 minutes ago, MatchFuzee said:

Winning Bid         £13,000

Buyers Premium   £1,560

VAT on Premium     £312

Total Cost              £14,872

Thanks, always try and work out what people pay

10 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

Ford Jeep M38 CDN -not sold

Willys Jeep MB - sold for £14,560  - includes 12% Buyers Premium

What about VAT?

I heard of people putting water in a tank before welding, not sure of success

I have seen on this forum but cant find it an explanation of how the number plates were allocated, I am looking to get the number plates in the series 

91 KF 99 to 92 KF 73 according to "Land Rovers in British Military Service there should be 75

Thanks

Richard