johann morris

In the original tank between the brake drums there was an extraction pipe that was connected to the radiator cooling fan via hoses, the idea was that the suction caused by the fan, would draw heat and fumes from the brake drums.

I know in my vehicle none of this works but I made it because I wanted to.

Jon

Evening,

While it was raining today, I made the holding bracket for the magnetic light canister, a nice little detail that needed making.

Sorry about the quality of the pictures, I must try harder in future.

Evening All,

I have at last finished the brake assembly, well apart from 5 springs.

John F pointed me in the right direction for the magnetic light, container and holding bracket, so my thanks to him.

I couldn't find a tin of the correct dimensions but I did have an old bit of tube.

And I have got a lathe so...….

The light is nicely dated 1940 so now  that I have an original item, my Panzer ll must be original.

The Holding container is a lot bigger than the lamp but apparently the lamp should have 6 meters of cable attached, so I assume that with the plug this would fill the container.

Jon

Hello Gary,

For some reason I have only just found this post, so please forgive me for not responding. I feel your pain, I had the same problem when I started, no one would give me the slightest help, it was so frustrating. One owner at a show even wanted to charge me £15 for taking pictures of a HUP. Then one day I had a message from a gentleman from Canada, one Robert Morrison who had a HUP, he offered to take pictures that would include a tape measure to help me with the dimensions.

Without his help, I still wouldn't be finished. My intention had been to do a complete set of drawings for the body and then post them for everyone's future reference but when I mentioned this to another member his response was " they haven't helped you, so f..k them, I wouldn't help them". It's not the right attitude but at that point I lost heart and gave up.

If you would like a copy of the pictures, let me know.

Jon

19 minutes ago, John F said:

From what I can gather, the lamp is stored inside that canister in the picture.

Here's a link to an auction on German eBay for a WW2-era magnetic vehicle inspection lamp - I've no idea if it's the right one for the Panzer 2, but it does have a magnetic base and it does match the various descriptions I've found on the Internet.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/392281309997

John have you got a link to the descriptions that you mention.

Jon

Thanks John, I am not sure if that is actually the correct light but the dimensions look very close. I think more research is required.

Jon

Evening All

This is the plate that I was referring to in my last post, having made and fitted the plate it answers a question.

One thing that has always bothered me was, what would happen to all those bolt heads should an impact occur on the side of the tank, in the real tank world. One would have thought, that some would have sheared off and ricocheted around the inside of the tank, causing injury or death. Now that I have made this plate, I think that I understand. The plate, along with several others, are not bolted directly to the hull side but stand off by about 20mm, in other words there is a gap between the hull and the plate, if there is an impact and the heads are sheared off the plate would stop them from flying around.

               

The plate should hold a first aid kit, that's the horizontal box, a tool kit, which I have yet to make, a spanner, feldflasche, and a magnetic lamp. I need help with the magnetic lamp, Item "a" in the first picture, I cant find any pictures of one so, HELP!!!!

Jon

Welcome to the forum John, i am glad that you have enjoyed my project so far and i hope that you will in the future.

There are some other fantastic projects that other members are currently undertaking, so when you are on the forum take a look at those as well as they are very inspiring.

I have done a bit more work to the brake drums, just to try and make them look more realistic really.

There is a plate, that is bolted to the hull just behind the brake drums, it carries items of equipment, I need to replicate this plate and bolt it into position before I finish the brake drum linkage just in case it causes clearance issues.

Jon

Thanks Bob and Enigma, your support is much appreciated.

I managed to get the brake drum cover finished today.

Jon

Evening All,

I have been trying to get out of this corner but it's been a very time consuming process. The first part of the drive shaft cover is on and the fake brake drums are now secured in place, the vertical bracket securing the drive shaft cover wasn't on the original and will be hidden by a cover that goes over the area.

That's it for now,

Jon 

13 hours ago, Highland_laddie said:

Jon,

I continue to be amazed at the level of detail your are putting into this.  I look forward to each and everyone of your postings.

Cheers,

Julian

Thanks Highland_ laddie.

13 hours ago, Mk3iain said:

Just a daft thought but could a set of brakes operating between the steering box and final drives work?

It would give you a main brake and the pedal would not be a dummy. If that makes sense.

Fantastic work Jon!

It might but there isn't space to get a fag paper between the steering box and the hull side on the right hand side. Thanks for the support.

On ‎10‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 10:08 AM, nightmare13 said:

Give James Shopland a call, He's a really helpful chap and loves his Bedford QL's, hes got more than i could count! 

 

Thanks nightmare, I have already emailed James earlier in the year but he wasn't available at the time, I have every intention of paying him a visit in the near future.

Jon

Fake brake bands, obviously not perfect but they give the right inpression i hope.

Jon

6 hours ago, Packhow75 said:

6pdr Portee.... nice... and different.

I guess next you'll be making a 6pdr?

 

I suppose that I will have to as I can't imagine finding one cheap.

Evening All,

Things have been happening rather slowly at the moment due to influences outside my control but i am  making progress.

I have managed to get the throttle fabricated and the linkage made up to a point but I need to complete some other items before I can connect it all up to the engine. The original linkage, as far as I can ascertain, was a series of steel rods routed around the front and over the gearbox and then a steel cable, in conduit, from there to the engine. It would be difficult to replicate that on mine, as the steering box takes up a lot more space, so I have used a cable from a cam on the end throttle shaft, up along the side of the steering box to an intermediate shaft, across the top of the steering box and then eventually to the engine.

The clutch and brake pedals are just there to try and replicate the original but they don't do anything.

In the original vehicle, the steering / brakes are on either side of the hull, I am going to make dummy brakes, on the left side where they will be visible, just to make it look as realistic as possible. 

Jon

Fate has yet again intervened and the Bedford has found itself jumping the que for restoration. In short, I have as usual bought a sows ear but as a dreamer, I can see a silk purse or portee.

Interesting but it's not worth going to the war weekend now that the German's have been banned.

Jon

Another conversation that I have had, is over the floor level within the tank. The floor level behind the drivers seat is approximately 200mm higher than the base of the tank, that's about 100mm higher than the drivers seat level. That makes it impossible to lay the back rest of the drivers seat right down. There is evidence of this in several books but very little that I can find online.

One of the reasons for this, is that the batteries are under this floor but the floor area below the turret isn't one level, as you would expect, there is an area that slopes down making a perfect trip hazard.

The picture below, from a 1/6 model, is the best visual explanation that I have.

If anyone has any differing information then let me know.

Jon 

48 minutes ago, BRDM Driver said:

 

I am sure there are members on here who would be happy to let you have a drive of a 432/433 so get a feel for the controls!

I certainly would but I'm a long way from you.

Now that would be offer that I couldn't refuse

I had a very informative and enjoyable conversation with a forum member this morning, the reason for the phone call was to give me the benefit of his experience regarding the brake / steering levers, in other words I had dropped a boo boo. I had produced the levers to operate as a standard handbrake does, in other words the ratchet locks as the lever is raised, to unlock it you depress the knob on top. I didn't realise, because I have never driven a tracked vehicle, that the levers are free running, for the application of the handbrake, once the levers have been raised into the correct position,you depress the knob on top which locks them into position. The assembly has now been modified and I would just like to thank said gentleman, for his time and extensive knowledge.

Jon

Steering / brake lever assemblies finished.

That  was bloody quick Rob, lamp received and well chuffed.

many thanks,

Jon

PMed

Jon

4 hours ago, SimonBrown said:

Apologies if its already in hand, but it would be remiss of me not to share this experience I think.

No problem Simon and I am very grateful that you have, the thought of the at drive shaft spinning around near my shins fills me with horror. Thankfully on the original there was a cover that enclosed the drive shaft and covered the brake assembly, also there is a cover that covers the drive shaft from the engine to the gearbox, in my case from the gear box to the steering unit.  My intention is to recreate the interior as near as possible to the original, so all rotating shafts will be covered and my legs should be safe.

Jon

I had hoped that when LR launched the new Defender the price of the older models would come back down to earth but now that I have seen the Pretender I don't think that is going to happen any time soon.

Jon