Chris Hall
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Posts posted by Chris Hall
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I’ve decided it’s spring now so you can get all the toys out again.
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1 hour ago, Geoff - Tomo said:
Dear all, as some of you may be aware, the author of this blog, my brother Tomo, has sadly passed away.
This leaves us with a dilemma, we would love to continue with the restoration, but unfortunately none of us have the time, knowledge or dedication that Tomo displayed to achieve the fantastic results so far.
Our best option would be to find a buyer, who would be able to take over, and once complete, would hopefully use the vehicle in WW1 display and re-enactment as Tomo had planned to do.
That’s really sad to hear and I’m very sorry for your loss. He’s left a fantastic legacy for someone to take forward and finish and I hope your family can one day see it on the circuit and feel justifiably proud.
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I think its post war, the long number is national stock number, the predecessor of the NSN.
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The oiler on the WD/C and CO is also an engine breather so angle it down. It should have a little disc in the block but I think these are often missed.
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Heavy enough to know it’s a good trailer and light enough to not feel like your towing a tank when not loaded.
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1 hour ago, steviem said:
Cheers bud, trying to work out towing capacity with a A4, should be OK.
I’m certainly no towing expert but I think a good quality trailer helps with towing. I once borrowed a car trailer and it put me off towing until I had to do it again and hired a Brian James one. Totally different experience!
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This isn’t mine but noticed it on FB for sale.
Its a C with CO mechanicals.
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Engine oil is as good as any, you can see on some bikes, people tried to fit sealed chains but they are too wide and cut through the chain case. What ever you do, it will likely still leak.
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I would try and source a good Cush drive clutch but they are hard to find now so may take a while. The non Cush unit you have now is from a much later machine, I’ve seen lots of them over the years.
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Henry Jenkins & Sons.,Unity Works, Victoria St., Birmingham. Produced between 1914 and 1918 under contract from BSA.
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They aren’t CO, the cases are larger at the rear. The Post War CO was assembled from left over WD/CO parts and the very last COs used C crank cases with CO cylinders. If yours were one of these, you’d have a Model CO serial number on the front of the case and if I remember correctly, new drain holes like the CO case. It could of course have been a non factory modification that someone has later ‘undone’ and not realised what the hole was originally for.
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1 minute ago, PaulJager said:
OK, just to be sure. Didn't read it as how you intended it. I will make sure I remove it. Thanx.
No probs, reading back on both posts, neither of them read how I meant them to.
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Attached is a photo of a WD/C crank case with oil return hole and WD/CO crank case with hole used for 5th stud and 2 new holes for oil return.
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32 minutes ago, PaulJager said:
Does this mean that there should be a bolt inserted into the hole in the bottom of the timing chest then? Or could I just remove it and let the oil flow back through that hole and don't worry about it? Because I cannot imagine the valve lifter sliding onto the spline and stil have enough room for a bolt to be there.
I'm glad the slit in the casing should be there any way. I was worrying that I again found some problem with a bike that should have been 100% complete and OK. But maybe the second oil drain plug, the one closest to the rear wheel, should have come out too. Which I neglected to do.
As I replied above, no bolt, it’s a drain hole, without it all the oil pumped in to the chest would fill it quicker than it can run down the lifters etc.
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6 hours ago, PaulJager said:
Hi Jan, thanx for the information. Then, still I couldn't get 1 Liter in or am I using the wrong conversion? 1 pint is about 568ml as far as I could find with Google. Even with 1 Liter there was already spillage over de rim of the filling opening and besides that also from the gap between the 2 halves of the housing.
That sounds a bit odd, you should be able to get 3 pints in. Spin the engine over to get some oil into the timing gear chest (but it doesn’t take that much).
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1 hour ago, PaulJager said:
Another extra question: should there be a bolt present within the cilinder head in the bottom of the valve and valve lifter "cabinet"? In my WD/C there was a bolt present, but I think that the valve lifter, when slided onto the spindle, will not fit anymore the way I have it now. I already reduced the head of the bolt, but when looking in the parts list I even couldn't find a bolt of which I would think that it is the one I have. Or does the hole in the bottom of the "cabinet" have to be left empty to let oil find it's way back into the motor housing below?
If I remember correctly, there is a hole to allow oil to flow back into the timing gear chest, perhaps someone put a bolt in it.
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2 hours ago, PaulJager said:
Can anybody tell me if the edge of the motor case should be straight and all the way round should exactly line up with the other half or not? I was filling up the engine with oil, but even 1 Litre wouldn't fit. I looked in the CO workshop manual and was thinking the C should also need about 4 pints, so just over 2200ml. But besides spilling the oil over the edge at the fill opening, the is oil dripping pretty much through a slit in the housing. Should the slit be there and should it be spilling oil there?
That looks good, the halves are cast separately but are machined as a pair. When they were machined, a matching number will have been stamped on both halves at the top rear above the bolt lug. So if they match, you are good. If they don’t, the halves need the main bearing alignment checked and machined to match (a simple job for a machinist).
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Looks about right.
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21 minutes ago, PaulJager said:
Thank you Ron for this clear explenation. Excuse me for not getting back to you sooner, but tis should help. Also the pictures make it easy to recognize the parts. Number 57 I ordered new from Hitchkock, but maybe I will find it burried somewhere behind the cap and plate, like you describe. I'm really curious about what the obstruction could be. Is there any experience within this group of what could be in the way of the rod being pushed in like it should?
Besides this problem to dive into, is there anyone who has a valve lifter available for sale? Or knows how to re-make one? (nmber 32 on page 7 partnumber 25567)
Nothing should block it, it’s just a hole right through. Disassembling won’t take long, it’s such a simple design.
As for the valve lifter, Jan may have a repro one.
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45 minutes ago, steviem said:
Hi Steve it has been re built not to sure if this is the problem it fires straight away if there is power to it, the intermittent loss of power almost like a low battery and nothing
I wonder if the bendix is sticky, and not engaging/disengaging correctly.
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The standard wiring would have a + from the batt to one side of the foot starter switch and then from the other side of the switch to the starter. Obviously we don’t know how your vehicle is set up, but it should be straight forward. It does seam like a bad switch but hard to know for sure. Bridging those terminals is very easy.
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Also, when it won’t start, does the horn work, ammeter flick into life etc?
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S.M.L.E DRAWING
in Weapons/Accessories
Posted · Edited by Chris Hall
It must post-date 1926 as it shows the nomenclature as No.1 MkIII and No.2 MKIV rifle. Prior to 1926 it was simply rifle MkIII, MkIV etc. etc.