Aussie

Thanks guys. I'll have a crack at it tomorrow. Re the brakes, I'm flying blind at the moment (need EMERs). However, I'm thinking I could take the outside brake plate off and get at them to see if they're stuck, or at least not do any harm - would that be reasonable? Re the Saracen, it served in NI and with the 28 squadron Gurkha reg in Hong Kong. It has reverse flow cooling so Mk 3 but I think the Mk 6 was just an upamoured mk 3, mainly for NI, so sounds possible. I don't know exactly what that involved but you obviously have a keen eye! So if you can let me know I'll have a look and let you know.

An update - nothing too exciting but I'm now looking at the wheel stations and brakes - and only have Saracen EMERs. So if anyone has Saladin EMERs for wheel stations, brakes and engine, or pointers to where I could get some, I'd be really grateful. Anyway … After getting the engine out I had a great time wire brushing, scraping and digging crud out of the interior, and its now looking almost civilised! With 2 coats of undercoat over rust inhibitor (now mainly silver): On to the shock absorbers - Allen plugs in the top brackets were a challenge, mainly the ones against the hull where I couldn't get enough force with an allen key. Made a little wrench by welding the top of a bolt to a bit of angle iron. Once they were "started" an allen key did the rest. The bottom shafts were hard to shift. Made an "extractor" out of angle iron (getting a lot of value out of that bar!). A couple were impossible to pull but I discovered that there isn't any block between the two shafts so was able to bash out the offenders with a thick rebar and heavy hammer and heat. The centre and rear shockers were solidly fixed to the hull brackets, so ended up drilling the nuts off. Pulled a bump-rebound damper apart. These are really simple and easy to clean up (the actual rubbers were ok). Now - how do I remove the wheel stations and check/fix the brakes? Help please! A couple of diagrams would help but until i've got one off and apart it's hard to visualise what to do. The rubber gaiters are shot and there's a fair bit of oil leaking/leaked, so i need to get at the seal where it joins the bevel box and probably others, wherever they are. Also need to replace the bevel box seals. I understand the top and bottom suspension shafts but don't follow how the tracta shafts come apart. Don't really want to remove the bevel boxes if i don't have to. Cheers James

Well, not the shafts now but approximate. The shafts do just pull out, after unscrewing the lock plate at the end. I can't pull one out with my extractor but can fit rebar through the other end (doesn't seem to be any block in the middle of the suspension) so plan to bash it out. Current question: The top mounting plates (centre and rear) come out with 5/16 allen key but while I got the outside ones out with an impact driver and bar, I can't get at the inner ones because of the sharp angle between the hull and the shockers. I'm experimenting with made-up tools but driving home today it occurred to me that the shockers might just be sitting in the brackets without being fixed, in which case they should pull out of the brackets if I lower the hubs - then it would be much easier to get at the inner bolts with the shockers out of the way. (One experiment was to cut an allen key back to fit it in, but can't get enough leverage). Strewth, this seems awfully long-winded. Must be tired. James

I'm removing the shock absorbers and everything is pretty stuck, so I've made an "extractor" for the bottom shafts, and the aim is to just pull those shafts out. However while the parts pictures suggest that the shafts will just slide out, it's not entirely clear, so... Can someone reassure me that the bottom shafts do just pull out, and that they aren't screwed in? Will need a fair bit of pressure to pull them out and I'd hate to strip a thread I wasn't aware of! Thanks, James

Thanks Rick Rear ones are not a problem, they're fairly simple folds. The front ones are a bit more involved but I think I have it sorted. Thanks for the offer though. James.

A cheeky question! I plan to get the mudguards fabricated rather than spending ages fixing the old ones. These are so dinged and dented that I'm not entirely sure of what angles the metal needs to be bent for the front ones. Does anyone have a pdf of the profiles? If not I'll fettle away. Have cleaned out and painted most of the inside and have the gearbox off and diesel-paraffin 50:50 soaking in the bores to see if I can turn the engine (before taking off the head). Picking up my patched petrol tank (pin holes under the hydraulic oil tank) and serviced radiator tomorrow and will then seal the tanks with the POR 15 from frost.co.uk. Ordered new bar grips (not run flat) from L Jackson and Co. They have around 50 of them and also a couple of run flats.

Thanks so much guys. Several good leads to follow, will let you know how it goes. I know in my heart of hearts that the head should come off but am putting this off since it looks like another steep learning curve. My main concern is putting it back together again - are all the gaskets, piston rings, (pistons?), big end bearings, etc, readily available?

Well, I'm actually hoping it's not. Disconnected gearbox and removed plugs, and next will see if I can turn it by hand (after I hook up the engine lifter again to make it more secure on its trolley). Somethings stuck so is it worth pouring something (I guess oil, rather than WD-40 or Penetrene?) into the chambers through the plug holes, then leave for a while? If so, do I squirt in a little or just "fill em up"? If I can't turn it I'll try disconnecting the FFW next in case that's the culprit. Thanks, James.

I'd think it's a Centurion Mk1, based on the 2 square hatches on the turret and the smaller round commanders cupola. These had a rolled steel turret and a 17 pounder with no fume extractor (these show as a bulge about half way down the barrel) and Besa machine gun. Later Marks had a cast steel turret with the round commanders cupola but only one rectangular hatch. Mk 2 had the 17 pdr and Mk 3 the 20 pdr "A" barrel (no fume extractor). Later marks the "B" barrel with the fume extractor and extra armour plate on the glacis, etc, etc. Leyland motors took over design parentage early 1950's and the Mk 7 was introduced in '53/54, so I'm guessing that Project 159 had to do with development of the Mk 7. However the model tank still looks like a Mk1 and not any later Mk - seems reasonable that they would make trophies with the first Mk. A couple of pics of my Mk 3 with "A" barrel - great fun but VERY thirsty! James

Thanks so much for your replies guys. MIG is out, and having looked at the (great) web site suggested by Richard, I've decided that I should practise on something a bit less important than a petrol tank, rather than thinking "how hard could it be?". Needs to be a safe job so have handed it on to a tank repairer to solder and test for me. Your replies have most likely averted a disaster! James

Cleaned a Saladin petrol tank (LHR) and discovered half a dozen pin holes (under the hydraulic oil tank so I guess rusted from outside in, rather than the reverse). I have a POR-15 kit to clean, derust and reseal the inside, and the kit includes a patch for holes but I'm a bit wary of relying on that. So, my plan was to fill the holes with solder then perhaps solder a plate over the area. The affected area is around 3" across. However while someone told me to use silver solder, a plumber told me today that silver solder isn't for steel and that I should use normal solder. What should I use? Or, would it be better to MIG weld a patch on? And if I go with welding, could I also plug the pin holes with that, or would I just blow bigger holes in the tank? (You can see I'm not an expert with either welding or soldering!) Whatever I do, I'll put the POR-15 patch on top of it. Thanks, James.

Thanks Richard There is no flange on top so seems no doubt they are shock absorbers, and I'm reliably informed they are the right size, but still a bit concerned that they might be for something else and have different loadings. Apparently stamped 76 (1976) which is a lot younger than my list. Attached pics from my parts list and two of the "unknown".

I don't know if anyone can help but would be very grateful if someone can! I'm after info on shock absorbers (?) that are probably for a Saladin but have a number that differs from my parts list. Mine list Direct Acting Shock Absorbers as FV440957 : 2540-99-803-5387 but these are numbered 2540-99-810-7152. So... Can anyone identify them and, specifically, let me know if they are for a Saladin and if they are actually shock absorbers and not Suspension Dampers (which look much the same externally)? Thanks, James.

Thanks Gerry Found it (Dec '12). Seems safest to just put it (B80 not B60 - my typo) on a bench as per Richard's suggestion, and not tempt fate with a commercial stand.

Could I please ask possibly the year's dumbest question? I have my B60 engine out and it needs work, so I wonder if the engine stands on ebay are ok. These have a vertical bracket that seems to bolt to the front drive pulley with 4 bolts. No other apparent support, so I just wonder if it is safe and secure to have the engine "hanging" from one end like this. Plan just the engine (ie disconnect gearbox and transfer box) and the one I'm looking at is rated 560kg, which is ok weight-wise. There is another rated at 900kg which would cope with engine, GB and Transfer box combined weight - but would this be too big ask for the fixing? Thanks James

Thanks Wayne That's the product I saw on the web. Good to know that others have used it with success. I can't see any holes but the bottom of front tank looks as if there might have been a bit of "weeping", so I'll go with the sealer to be on the safe side.

Having got the engine out of my Saladin I figure the petrol tanks would be a good next step. There's nothing obviously wrong with them, apart from one perished/corroded connection (pipe wasn't connected), but no doubt there's something nasty inside them. So I wonder if I could get some advice regarding cleaning, de-sludging and coating the insides with some sort of sealer. There are products on the web but I'm not sure if they are the way to go. James

The engine is out! Folk who know what they're doing might cringe at what I've done (and think this very boring) but "beginners" like me might get a few clues, so here's the story. 1. The oil seal nut between the transfer box and centre bevel box has the oil seal threaded into it, so turning it clockwise (facing the transfer box) will screw the oil seal out against the bevel box. So to loosen it, you need to turn the nut anticlockwise. I thought the opposite and just jammed things up even tighter. 2. Couldn't get at the last bolt to remove the rear engine mount, so in the end I cut it. Should be easily welded 3. If you are planning to take out an engine, make sure it rolls before you back it up against a wall! When I tried to move the beast forward it refused, and after uncoupling a couple of drive shafts I discovered that the right centre and left front wheels were seized and the right front free-wheels. No idea why and solved that by removing the stuck wheels. The military wheel spanner was useless so invested in a breaker bar with 3/4" drive and impact sockets - these are fantastic! 4. To uncouple the drive shafts I couldn't get the muff couplings off with heat, oil and bashing, so split them. I really try not to cut stuff up! There are several more to remove, so better advice would be appreciated. They should weld up OK if I can't get NOS. 5. The EMER says lift the engine just enough to remove the rear mount. Getting mine out was a real saga but in summary, you need to lift the engine quite high to get the petrol pipe connection over/around the fluid pump. (Another sad story - the pump mount was seized solid and when I tried too hard to move it with the adjuster, the bracket broke off. A friend tells me the sort of casting can't be welded, so a problem for another day). 6. Invested in a good quality spanner (well worthwhile) and used a small tow bar to fit over it to get more leverage. 7. The Saladin info says that the rear (pulley end) engine lifting lug is faulty and should not be used, so I put an extra chain under the engine - not overly tight but there in case the other one let go (it didn't). 8. Taking the engine, gearbox and transfer box out as a unit doesn't work with just the engine lifting mounts - too much weight and not balanced. I don't have a big crane to hook everything up, so made a couple of brackets (angle iron) for the two lifting points on the transfer box. Started with the front point and hooked on a block and tackle to a bit of angle iron and timber (with a 2000kg lifting strap) resting on the turret opening. As things moved forward the top support was moved onto the engine compartment, and when it went as far as it would I switched to the rear mounting point, which was also moved rearwards as things moved, until it allowed the assembly to drop down past the rear of the hull. 9. This is out of order, but even after releasing the oil seal the transfer box wouldn't uncouple from the bevel boxes, so resorted to jacking it - gently at first and then with more gusto. The picture isn't actually how it ended up - too much pressure on the centre of the bar so I moved the wood to horizontal and chocked the ends so the pressure was against the outer ends of the bar. 10. Success! Like delivering an elephant! Next step .. not sure yet but probably clean up the inside, then need to get the wheels working. Does anyone have any EMERs or info re how to tackle the brakes (think that's the problem left front), and bevel boxes? I haven't had any luck finding these - have Saladin info but they are drum brakes. 11. Don't meddle with these big boys! Seventy yards away in the paddock and daring me to try!

Eureka! Tried to remove engine and it jammed after moving forward about two inches. Long story short, the oil seal is threaded into the nut, which just spins aimlessly, so if you turn the nut clockwise (facing from outside towards the transfer box) the oil seal actually moves out against the bevel box. So to "release" the oil seal, you actually need to turn it in the opposite direction, i.e. anticlockwise (again, facing the transfer box). Bit counterintuitive but one more problem solved! Similarly, to tighten the oil seal if/when the engine goes back in, the nut needs to be turned clockwise, not the opposite as I thought.

Between the transfer box and the centre bevel boxes are two "oil seal ring nuts" that are supposed to be "released" to bring the oil seal away from the bevel box, to allow removal of the transfer box. I've been hitting those nuts around clockwise, ie screwing into the transfer box, and think the gap on the outside of the nut has increased but it might be the same and just previously full of dirt. Anyway, if I poke a bit of paper through the gap it hits something underneath (shaft, oil seal, can't tell) so I'm worried that I've been hitting the nut the wrong way and perhaps should be UNscrewing it from the transfer box?

Thanks Jon. Just what I needed. Sorry if these questions seem a bit "blonde". I now need to take the generator off so I can get at the one hull engine mounting bolt I can't get a socket on (think its just dirt and rust but can't get at it yet to clean it). Couldn't push the hydraulic pump against the hull because its mount is seized. Ah well, nearly there... BUT The transfer box-bevel box oil seal ring nuts have me worried now! My attempt with a C spanner failed miserably so I resorted to a hammer and punch to spin the nut around. However nothing obvious loosened up and I started to worry if I was going in the wrong direction (although probably just need to keep going the way I was). Am I right in assuming that the nuts screw into the transfer box in the usual direction? So I would hit the right hand one towards the front and the left hand one to the rear? I can't see any other way it would work but really don't want to bust anything (more) if it can be avoided! I'll post some photos when the engine is coming out..

Thanks for the advice. Fiddling with PTO worries me, given my appalling lack of expertise, so I'll give more thought to keeping the engine. Can I ask a silly question? Have just about got all the bits off ready to remove engine (off to buy a bigger C spanner to free the bevel box seals then that end is sorted) but have to remove generator cable and don't want to break anything. So, fixed to the generator is an L shaped connection with a large connection to the genny and a small one to the cable. I've loosened both but nothing is coming out with a gentle tug, so which bit do I pull harder?

The saga continues, slowly, with a growing pile in the shed of stuff removed, derusted and repainted. Now removing the engine (following the emer) but not sure whether to remove it with the gearbox or would it be easier to separate? The box needs to come out anyway. Also wonder what sort of stand would be best to sit/fit it on to work on? Of more immediate concern, are there any problems swapping in a Saracen engine? Both are b80 but are there any modifications on the Saracen one that I should beware of, or shouldn't I go down that track at all? (My engine might be OK but there was no way of trying to start it in situ, given the condition of the peripherals).

Does anyone have any experience with this? Apparently lasts the life of the engine, prevents overheating and stops corrosion. Saw a clip where Jay Leno said he put it in a Rolls with Meteor engine (!!) and has used it his other old cars for over 15 years. Is expensive but never needs to be changed. Anyone use it? Prompted by seeing Wheeler Dealers tonight, where they put it in an old Triumph (I think - wasn't really concentrating). Have a couple of old cars (Jag, Mini) that really don't like Oz summers... James

I'm considering a cent Mk3. However I'm told the turret only turns slowly on "emergency mode, and think elevation might be manual. Was told this is a common problem due to capacitors in the control unit burning out regularly and quickly, and that the current owner hasn't been able to get it working reliably. Haven't as yet seen it in operation. So.. does anyone have any ideas and advice about this? Thanks. James