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Everything posted by HunterXL565

  1. It is the Birfied joint on this particular axle- Today I have managed to get half of it on at the shaft 3 end, which leads me to believe that I need to split the unit where 'A' is shown on the diagram and join it when the wheel station is bolted onto the vehicle. This will mean splitting it halfway down the gaiter and then reassembling from here. Thank you very much for your advice so far and the link!
  2. The old axle was indeed a clobham type join, however this type is a spline, male end coming out the axle and female end on the end of the wheel hub. It is completely different from the clobham type, and for some reason, it does not want to line up! This may be a later design of axle, if you have any info on this type I can PM you my email address and If possible you could email them across? I will be tackling the problem this week, so like I say any help would me much appreciated! I can add photos as the week goes on!
  3. This is correct! They are a splined fitting on the wheel stations- The old axle was an odd sort of coupling, however after swapping the axle we noticed the gaiters needed replacing, and changed the wheel stations in order to do this. However the splines don't seem to marry up, and it hits a hard spot. If you have ANY diagrams of how this should properly be done, or any diagrams of the set-up, it would by much appreciated!
  4. All, Can any ex-REME/People with experience of Pigs explain to me how to re-attach the end of the axles onto the vehicle? This is the splined version of the hub- Do they simply push on, or is it a case of finding the master spline! It seems to not want to go on either side, and is causing rather a head ache! Kind Regards Tom
  5. Dear all, Despite not having used the forum for a while, I have got back on and have my first question of the year. I have yesterday changed the back axle on a Mk.1 Humber Pig due to some rather worrying noises it was making. To reinstall the new axle, I stripped it down and have mounted the diff first and have to put the hubs on next- But the gaiters on the driveshafts have both corroded. The spline is different on the axle to the hubs from the axle I have removed. How to I get the gaiters off!? I have tried stripping several items off, but am not able to slide the tapered gaiter off the half shaft. If I can get the gaiter off or swap the halfshaft spline itself, I can put the hubs back on and go from there! Any help/diagrams would be much appriciated! Kind Regards Tom 11 BK 17
  6. Thanks! Looks like i'm set for a long job then! Oh well, all in the name of progress :-)
  7. Hi all, I am removing the fuel tanks from two Humber Pigs, and after getting half-way through the job yesterday, I realised that the connections to the tank are above the tank. Should I remove the floor from the pig, or just simpily drop the tank, and remove when convinient? Tom
  8. HunterXL565

    BSA M20

    They sure are bantams! They're only single cylinders for a start, and they have plunger forks, whereas most M20's have girder forks. Tom
  9. Hi all, I am currently trying to get an old BSA running for a friend- An old ex-military Bantam D1. I have recently replaced the piston and rings, with a brand new barrel, and I know there is good compression. The fuel is correctly mixed, and the carb appears to be functioning correctly. The spark however, is a different story! The points are meant to be set to .15 thou, however set to this, there is no spark. If you reduce the gap to about 0.08 thou, there is a good, clear spark, however it will not fire (i'm guessing because the timing is then badly knocked out. Is the problem more likely to be the coils, condenser or the magnets on the flywheel? :-| Thanks very much in advance, Tom
  10. Thanks all, I think i just might invest in one of those testers! I have tried many different plugs (correct types of course) with no joy. I've always prefered the points, as you can see the problem easier, whereas i've not a clue whats happening inside this sealed CDI! Thanks, Tom
  11. Hi all, Has anyone ever had the problem of a spark when the plug is out of the cylinder, but no spark when in the cylinder under compression. I thought it might be a short in the magneto. Does anyone know any good ways of checking for this, because i'm unsure wether this is the engine, or the lack of a spark. Sorry, I'm not that clued up on electrics :nut: This is on a 1979 Can-Am Bombardier with CDI ignition by the way. Thanks in advance, Tom
  12. Hi there, could you shed some more light on location etc or a phone number, PM me if you wish- Reason being I work at Bruntingthorpe and we are always looking for more ground equipment, especially pieces like this that could once again be used! Thanks, Tom
  13. Hello, Found out that in the end it was the IR lighting switch that had broken, and by simpily bypassing that the headlights are now working. I am now contemplating removing the switch and reparing it, but i am told not only is it useless, but it can blow the headlights. Therefore the only reason i would want to repair it is becuase i'm picky like that and I like things to be original :nut: Cheers, Tom
  14. Is that the little lever on the left-hand side of the seat that pushes hard to the left? If it is then the seat must be corroded to the rails. :wow:
  15. Hi all, Quick question.. how do I get the drivers seat out of the ferret!! I think it could be corroded in if i'm doing the wrong thing :cry: Thanks, Tom
  16. Hi all, I've managed to get her running after changing the gaskets sets, and she now runs as sweet as a nut :cheesy:
  17. Thanks everyone, I'll start by replacing the head gasket when the replacement arrives as there is that suspicious leak :undecided: I somehow don't fancy taking it all to bits again to replace the crankcase seals, so i'll start with the easiest first :cheesy: Cheers, Tom
  18. Checked that as well (Y) I've had the filter off and I can see the slide is shut, and I beleive the right amount of petrol is being delivered
  19. It's 1 1/2 turns out from fully in, as recommened in the manual. It sometimes starts if it is left for a while which indicates to me that it will only cut out if warmed up and expanded (gasket again?)
  20. Hi all, I was hoping you might be able to point me in the right direction re. Bombardier 250 Military Motorbike. Its a two stroke rotary valve 250cc engine, and I have recently had it running, however I can't get the rev's any lower that 3000rpm (supposed to idle at 1000rpm). The first couple of times it started it would start easily on the second kick, however now I can't get it started unless I push start it. There is a trickle of oil coming out of the head, it looks like its coming out where the head meets the block, around where the gasket fits. Its a thick oily substance with some petrol in it. I know for a fact that the spark is good, and the plug usually comes out wet with fuel after trying to start. I thought that the gasket may have gone, which would also cause the leak. Just wondering if there were any other suggestions before I remove the head and put in a new gasket which I will have to order. Thanks, Tom
  21. I see what you mean about the switch, but its in the far left position (all lights) so I see no reason it will not work. I have ruled the Aux. Relay out, as the horn and hazzards work. Personally, I think it may be one of the snap connecters, that apparently are noutorious for collecting dirt. I am going to look into this at the weekend Thanks for the help, Tom
  22. Hi all, I've currently been working on another project for a while as well, a Bombardier 250cc Military Motorcycle. I have had great support from Pauls team at Military Can-am's, and have managed to get most the problems solved. I am currently struggling with the ignition system- a Bosch CDI (Inductive Discharge) and cannot efficiently find the fault. I'm getting resistance from the trigger coil to the correct number of ohms. However it is not making the 'whining noise' I have fitted a spare CDI, and have had the same problem. Could anyone give me some pointers on how to test the CDI itself, and the coils. If anyone had a diagram of the internal workings of the CDI, that may be of great help. Thanks a lot, Tom
  23. Thanks everyone, the replies have been very useful, and I will tackle the problem :coffee: Thanks again, Tom
  24. Hi there all, I'm new to this forum, so just a quick hi, and a couple of questions- I am currently helping to 'do-up' my friends 3 series Lightweight. Yesterday, I have managed to get the lights working, all of them except the fog lights, and the front headlights. The headlights work on the flasher on the indicator stalk, but will not stay on by selection. Any ideas? I've checked all the fuses in the steering coloumn, but still cannot get the fog lights working. Also, would anyone be able to show me a pic of the convoy light- I have the white diff pan, but there is no light. Thanks very much, Tom
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