SirLanceUK

1 minute ago, Elphiel said:

You should write Mr Hewes. Just from his recent Videos working on a Chieftain, he seems to have access to quite some spares and cables.

Dorry "Mr Hewes" can you give addy or someother way i cna track him down and chat to him?

14 hours ago, attleej said:

Do you mean an electrical cable assembly or a bowden type control cable?

I would imagine that the internal parts such as pistons and liners would be very hard to find as the basic engine would have been overhauled at a base workshops, the manufacturer or a contractor.  Wherever, it was done, there would be no spares for us!  Sooner or later we will have to start rebuilding 'dead' L60s.

Does any know anybody who has internal NOS parts for an L60?

John

That particular cable is an electrical cable that looks like it has been "squashed", I can make and engineer quite a lot of parts but

I have come across a L60 pack that is in a terrible state and will need a shed load of work doing to it, before I go any further I can see a couple of the cables had been mangled and will need replacing, even if everything else can be used so.... 

Does anyone know where I might find general spares for the Pack.. I have looked at listings on most of the "normal" suppliers...  

and example of one cable is V605135/3  - I have contacted a cable maker but I have a feeling that as a one - off

On 1/6/2024 at 11:30 AM, Chris Suslowicz said:

Thinking about it, the Intercom is probably always going to be required, so cabling for that may be incorporated into the standard vehicle harness. (Other possibilities are the ECC (Emergency Crew Communication) for Commander to Driver which originally used a "Power Microphone" and used the vehicle battery and a transformer rather than an amplifier to feed the intercom circuit - the big grey Tannoy or Truvox microphones with the 3-pin connector.)

Chris.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for the offer of documentation. I must admit I have a few manuals here already but for some reason I often can't see the wood for the trees. In this case it was SirHC's diagram that showed me what was what, however your last comment made perfect sense as I have had a working Intercom for some while without the need of the rear batteries, but my circuit diagram shows no such power lead for the intercom.

Lance 

Just to close this thread off. A friend found the light guard at greenmachinesurplus.com (hope i am allowed to mention them) and have purchased said item.

Cheers Lance

10 hours ago, Chris Suslowicz said:

Afterthought: The cable in Socket 3 probably surfaces wherever the second radio is/was meant to be fitted. It may have been tucked away out of sight and tied down to prevent rattling, as it well have a 4-way free socket on the end, intended to mate with the power distribution box for the second radio set. That could well have been mounted on the "top tray" for the second set. it just depends what was fitted:  C42 and something else (if Larkspur era) VRC353 and maybe VRC321 if Clansman. (There was also a Doppler radar observation system, so the socket may have ended up somewhere completely different if it was meant to power that!)

Best regards,

Chris.

Thanks for the response Chris, I think SirHC's diagram explains where I need do be looking. It also explains what the RDC box actually does, but I appreciate people who take the time to answer questions.

14 hours ago, sirhc said:

Brilliant, that explains a lot and I know where to look, I did look there before but I am guessing I didn't check properly. Once again SirHC saves my bacon 

As everyone knows I have a Spartan that i have been slowly working through trying to get most systems working, if not as the Army intended then fit for purpose.

I have been working in the back getting a working Intercom and nor trying to get a working Radio, hence why I am asking questions about the Radio Distribution Box.

Now on the circuit Diagram i have the   RDU, Gen Panel, Dist Panel and Relay Box are all just "blank" boxes, they had the inputs ad outputs but not what the levels are, or what the levels might be.

However that is not the question, On Socket 3 and 4 of the RDC (24 volt 4 pin socket) that is nothing connected, but in my RDC socket 3 had a 4 pin plug in it, which disappears in to the loom and in towards the front of the Spartan. I have buzzed through all the 4 pin plugs and sockets I can find any yet nothing seems to buzz through the cable that goes in to Socket 3 of the RDC.

The only thing left for me to do now is undo the wiring loom and chase the cable to see where it goes, BUT before I do that I thought I would ask on here to see if anyone actually knew where I could find the other end. It's not at the Dist Panel or the Relay Box.

On 12/18/2023 at 9:04 PM, sirhc said:

I have some a bit closer to home, will try and remember to look for one. 

Thank you 

Interesting topic.

As a private owner, I haven't driven 1000's of miles. In that time i have had :- 

an Petrol engine replaced, only had 5 cylinders one had no compression at all, but the engine kept going.

Starter motor seize solid due to the wrong type of glue on the bendix (apparently a batch of reconditioned starters all had the same issue)

Couple of rubbers off the roadwheels - didn't notice any difference but swapped at my earliest convenience

On a first parade discovered a track pin nut had come off - replaced the pin and nuts with a spare I carried there and then

All my other issues have been due to my lack of knowledge and corrected after a it was explained to me.

I did recover my friend and his Striker after the engine "died". We could restart it but it didn't run for very long. After a few choice words a person who knows what they were talking about was called in and the petrol pump was replaced, The second one in 2 years.

Just to close this off,  Andrew's parts were exactly what i wanted and worked to perfection, 

I registered my CVRT 5 yeas ago, and got various answers depending on who I talked to. It went from "you cant register that on the road" to "that's unusual I will see if I can help" the second person put me through to the technical department (the guys that write the regulations) and we had a really interesting 2 hour chat.

The upshot was, and still is a far as i know, that the "43*" range are over the 2.55m width limit and can not now be registered for the road. So pleading ignorance in this case is your friend. 

I was also told various other things from other helpful "knowledgeable" people , but my advice is fill as little in as you can, they sent mine back clearly marked what i needed to fill in and with what. And if you don't succeed try again....

Required :-

Just the 1, for the interior rear lights of my Spartan. I am sure they are common to a few other vehicles as well as CVRT's, I did get the 

Roof Light Positioning Ring from a totally different vehicle

If you are in doubt the measurements are

3 3/4" outside Diameter

3" inside diameter

1 1/4" high 

NSN - 6220998814081 ( 6220-99-881-4081 )

Guard  Roof Light No. 3 MK 1  FV518760 

There must be 100's of these somewhere. I have met several people who say "I used to have a box full of them" the important part is "had".

While TheXmod lists them, they are currently out of stock, thank you thexmod for the picture.

7 hours ago, Andrew Rowe said:

Is this what you are after , Cheers Andrew.

I have dragged out exactly what i am looking for anything with a hook at the end so i can restrain BV, Axe etc, SO i do think we are talking the same thing ,

12 hours ago, sirhc said:

Hi Lance,

These are unique to CVRT. My friend Andy could not find any so made them.

When you were at Tanks, Trucks & Firepower the other week you stopped to look at the stuff for sale on the floor next to my Universal Carrier, but you missed the bags of 10 of these clips for £20. 

If you want some he will post them. I can give you his details.

Chris 

yes please

14 hours ago, john1950 said:

I have come up empty so far. I have been through about 200 different straps in bags. That buckle seems familiar though.

I have not really found anything the same, the closest i got was something that had no way of "locking" the webbing in place (stop it sliding) so i have ordered those and something to lock the webbing. It wont be "authentic" but it might work till i can fabricate or get hold of the real thing, but i will let you know

18 hours ago, john1950 said:

I have a feeling I may have one in a box of bits, I will have a look.

please do, one or two will help

20 hours ago, Grasshopper said:

I did recently manage to obtain some of these that somebody had made a repro batch of. Not sure how many he'd have left though. 

please feel free to ask, i am not looking for millions and will make them myself if i have to

Please can some one tell me where I can purchase, or has for sale (don't want) hooked buckles that go on the webbing to secure "loads".

I have looked round the internet and can find nothing that looks like it (picture included) and it's the sort of thing people have and throw away.

I am now resorting to fabricating some, 5 would be more than enough, even 1 would be good.

Cheers Lance

Just thought I would update what I have found, not sure if it is right but it's what I found.

The first picture is the inboard side where you can see the bolt which then goes into cone washer, with the cone pointing outward . The second picture  shows the outboard side where you can se the cone washer, cone side pointing outward.

You can just make out the bush, or pin, ( ID 5/8 IN OD 1 IN and length 4 IN). Why do you need "cone Washers" I have no idea as you can see by the second picture the cone washer has been "pulled" in to the casting of the training arm.

I did ask a metal expert who confirmed that "copper alloy" is now Bronze (SAE660 Bronze Tube, is fine) but I am making the bush and cone washers out of stainless steel.

Thanks for that, it's a shame the diagram does not show that bush but looking at the picture it looks like the pin is steel.

I do wonder then why they specify "cone washers" (Item 26) at each end rather than just a locknut.

what can i say but a huge thank you for taking all that trouble. I am going to have great fun with my lathe making that part, Do the split pins play apart in all this?  Now i cam make an adapter for my home made shaft puller and my newly purchased slide hammer.

When you take off the ‘top hat’ exposing the final drive shaft there is a threaded hole. This is the size I need. It just happens that the NBC screws that lock the rear door closed has the same thread and can be used to pull the final drive shaft out. 

yes the spring loaded pin that holds the ‘center’ shaft in position till I get the shaft out I have no idea how it goes together, so a diagram would enable me to fabricate something

That is a very good idea, forgot about slide hammers. I made a shaft puller to get out the main fan unit as there was not space to use a slide hammer, so went to that as my solution. All I need to make and adapter from 10mm to whatever the thread is on the final drive. Or if I do go the slide hammer route most seem to be metric and I would need to make an adapter but in either case I still need to know the size of the thread on the final drive. I am going back to my Spartan on Wednesday so can measure it then, unfortunately that means coming home making the adapter and returning at some future date .....