JonP

Hmmm, i don't want to sound paranoid but the rectangular outline round the number looks like a possible graft from another vehicle? Why i dunno. Or a plate welded on and restamped....

My spidersense is tingling... as with all the others.. WALK AWAY!!! Its not worth it. There will be other, better, more complete jeeps.

Your question about would someone try to palm off a hotchkiss (in this example) for a MB/GPW (even though its come from the US)... yes!

Wow, great! Quality ice cream scoops I see!! :cheesy:

Its a batch that we had made up here in Suffolk by a paint company based upon a 'swatch' I gave them to use as a guide.

 

I will agree that it is a good colour, but I haven't been especially impressed with its durability.................(with the risk of taking this thread off on a whole new tangent!)

 

Having said that, I'm sure I could provide you with some if you were interested.

Thanks Clive - be interested on the durability comment, even in a new thread. PM sent.

Jon

Clive,

Who's paint did you use? I like the colour.

Jon

I know what you mean regarding lack of info on shop vans, my ears always prick up when I find reference to a new one on the web. Vulture's blog has gone some way to addressing this.

Sure, more than happy to post pictures of the truck.

There is a good external photo on Ken's flickr page (Ken - hope you don't mind me linking):

Here's a few internal shots:

And the elusive evanair heater - hence my question:

If there is anything specific you want a close photo of, just ask, otherwise I'll dribble various pics on here.

Look forward to seeing the picture of the floor - do you have metal or wooden battery box covers? Ours has wooden.

I'm missing a internal light cover so if you ever get wind of any...

Jon

Great looking truck Jim and I'm really impressed with the progress you made.

I'm want to respray mine but have never undertaken any restoration work before so its still in the research phase. I dread to think what the rust situation (if any) is on the inside of my shopbody.

Anyway, although you said the rear was empty, I don't suppose you've got the evanair heater thingy on the front wall?

I'm in saffron walden (Essex) with a closed cab shopvan like yours. Look forward to seeing your progress

Jon

As an aside, I have been suprised how many of the vehicles are not recorded on the DVLA database. Of those that are, lots have the engine size recorded incorrectly, as well as the year in the some cases. For instance I can't recall when the open cabs first came out, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't 1939 ! LOL

I think there'll be many vehicles, not registered correctly in the DVLA database. All US vehicles that were imported during the war that are subsequently registered with the DVLA to use on the road today, may be allocated an age-related number. Clubs like the MVT provide a verification service so that the vehicle can be dated as accurately as possible based on the chassis number and available information in order to obtain an age related number.

Vehicles can be registered with the DVLA through various routes and it only takes a date like 1939 on some import paperwork from an EU country and the DVLA may accept that. When did the war break out? 1939! Its a wartime truck, must have been first registered in 1939! Only sure way is to use the chassis number and even then that will have some error attached.

JP

This is great. I can browse shop van pics to my hearts content :cool2:

But why? Why would you want to? A CJ would make a nice base project for a, err, CJ? I can think of umpteen CJ projects which would look really cool - Santini Air finish (airwolf), Arizona State Police (with light bars) to name a couple. To convert it into a Willys MB just because.. nope, don't go there!

Just to add my 353 turns over slowly on 6V.. its what I expect. I must admit it does turn over fairly consistently though. I pull the drive button out about 1/2" (as per the TM starting instructions).

What is the capacity of your 6V battery? Larger capacity will allow you to crank for longer?

I used to have starting troubles but since I got a larger capacity battery and pull out the drive button she (touch wood) starts more or less after 3-6 seconds... the TM also talks about cranking up to around 20 seconds before taking your foot off the starter button. Btw I am starting from cold directly on LPG! Yes, LPG (I know normally you start on petrol then switch to LPG).

There is a nack to starting our truck.. but reading the instructions in the TM has helped improve the success rate at first time starting (easy to think starting an old vehicle is a 'simple' task)

Jon

For a jimmy your going to be pumping forever with laser oil pumps and syringes. Go the whole hog and buy 25ltr containers with a humoungous oil transfer pump. This is what I use for the GMC and also the jeep:

http://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=GL4&osCsid=q22ep60ir56n5nbeqh1bgcrop6&search.x=0&search.y=0

http://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=65&products_id=202

For the sake of £38 its not worth messing around with anything smaller... believe I changed three diffs on the truck very quickly... I have the small laser oil pump that I used to use for the jeep.. ended up with a crinked neck and aching back with all the pumping

Its EP90 (extreme pressure) and GL-4 (so no need to worry about compatibility with metals... I had the GL5/4 dilemma and researched it quite a bit... decided to use GL-4 to be safe)

Btw I intend to use this oil in the diffs and the gearboxes for both the truck and the jeep... I seem to recall from my research notes that it is okay to use (hypoid blah blah blah... would have to dig out my notes to give you more detail).. certainly the conclusion I reached but don't quote me on it.

Certainly I was scared off from GL-5... especially for old vehicles. And GL-4 is easily obtainable so why not stick with it

Jon

Hi Ian,

I had/have similar issues... I'm unable to confirm the radiator level by looking in the rad cap so I top up 'just in case'. Then I find the rad vents the excess water after my journey. I am gradually coming to the conclusion that there is nothing wrong and the water is just finding its own level... the fact being that its own level is just below where I am able to confirm visually.

I've tried sticking my finger in, shining a torch in and doing all of the above whilst rocking the truck, just in case its sloshing about just out of sight.

I've recently replaced the coolant, this was after done a couple of trips without topping up the radiator (so the water level was out of sight). However the amount of coolant that I drained was roughly the same as what the TMs specify. But it doesn't hurt to be paranoid!!

Jon

Hi, am looking for secure covered storage for a GMC CCKW, Saffron Walden area (CB11).

Does anyone have any available, or know someone who might have something?

01799 501942

Thanks in advance

Jon

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what's a good price for a US wartime one?!?

Jon

If the jeep isn't UK registered (or currently on a Q plate) and there are no chassis numbers (be it tag, or stampings) then the major pitfall is that it is highly likely you will not be able to obtain an age related number plate.

Body numbers can be used to verify the age of the body but bodies, especially jeep bodies, move from vehicle to vehicle. The chassis number generally is the main component used to verify the age of a vehicle.

I personally would not buy a jeep without a chassis number... I would also pay attention to whether the chassis number looks authentic or not.

Jon

Steve, Cubed, deadline, David, thanks all for your replies.

That is exactly what I wanted to know - it is helpful to understand what people are actually using.

David - those are some serious chocks! (understandably :wow:)

I will be taking a trip to the local weighbridge when the weather is a bit warmer, but in the meantime I think I have sufficient info now to make a decision on the jacks/stands I'll be getting.

Cheers

Jon

Thanks for that ) So I guess it boils down to trolley vs bottle jacks.. bottle jacks are cheaper and in most cases, I'd only be lifting the truck enough to get the wheels off the ground (and an axle stand underneath)

Also I suppose a heavier lift jack in itself will be heavier.

In terms of axle stands, do you have any experience of the ratchet types?

Again, I guess 6 tonne per stand (12 tonne pairs) will be okay for a CCKW. Initially I was considering 12 tonne per stand but now this is probably overkill and unnecessary expense.

Cheers

Jon

Fair comment. Its not the inability of the jack to lift the truck, but halfway through lifting the jack gives out because its lifting above its weight limit that I was concerned about.

But I take the point about changing a wheel. Then you are only lifting one corner of the truck.

Thanks

Jon

Thanks guys,

I've got a CCKW 353 now (shop van) so am looking at jack and stand options.

There are some high reach Clarke stands at 6 ton per pair. Although a lot of literature says that because you're lifting a corner of the vehicle then this is okay (the truck weighs around 6 ton, so 3 ton per corner) but I can't help these are sufficient as the weight limit is on the spec. I'd prefer at least 6 ton per stand but don't seem to be able to find any.

As for jacks, 10 - 20 tonne bottle jack. Should be sufficient methinks.

Jon

For reprints of the ST-6 body manual try 'Pike and the wildbunch' in Texas. I just ordered a copy of the Maintenance and Parts Book for the ST6 shop body, and SNL G-227 (Service parts for ST6 and ST5 bodies) and the quality are A1.

I've just got a CCKW so am a total jimmy newbie... but if you can read.. and you have access to the internet...

Good luck with finding one.

JP

Hi Tony,

I incorporated LEDs into the blackout lights in addition to the existing blackout lights so that I could keep the original blackout lights working.

The disadvantage of having hidden indicators is that the normal road user does not see the indicators until they flash.. sometimes the other drivers don't even see them. I think it is better to have visible indicators even when they are not active (such as bike indicators fitted below the wings). There are usually a number of bolts that could be unfastened to attach a suitable indicator bracket to, and if you do it right they could be easily removable so as not to detract from the original appearance of your jeep when at shows.

Authenticity and original appearance might be important, but I'd rather not have a repair job due to some boy racing 'assuming' I'm going one way when I'm going the other!

12V LED indicators probably won't work on a 6V system as they would be biased for 12V operation. Have you considered motorbike indicators (LED or otherwise) as I think they are 6V

Cripps on 'the G' wrote a good article on fitting LED to blackout lights, do a search on the forum.

If at all possible, I wouldn't rip out the gizzards of your blackout lights!!!

Jon

Chaps,

Thanks again - took delivery of our 'new' CCKW at the weekend... with the cold weather, short distances and a lot of waiting around I ended up having to jump start it twice so thank goodness I asked!! :-\

Jon

Thanks chaps, not one 'no don't do it!!' which is very re-assuring. Good tip to leave the 6V battery connected.

Chaps,

If you have a 6V vehicle and you are in the middle with no tools is it possible to jump start of 12V? How would you do it (bearing in mind things like ignition coils, starter motor etc run off 6V).

I would assume you would disconnect one of the 6V battery terminals so as not to connect the 12V jump battery across it?? but then what (oh yes, leave the lights off and do not apply the brakes!!!)

Jon