61Ferret

Diana. Again, Thanks for replying to my questions...greatly appreciated. Have checked many threads/posts on HMVF and other forums about size difference between U.S./British tyres,rims and fit. If I have understood things correctly, post WW2 Ferret alloy rims have the 5 degree bead angle which I understand to be the same as WW2 and post WW2 U.S. tyres and rims. If I've misunderstood what I've read...please advise. Shall check with Specialty Tire about their tyre specs and whether the rating is per each or pair of tyres. Terry.

Hi Robin. Not giving up the old/current tyres as yet but if and when I do, I shall contact you. Terry.

Diana. Thanks for the reply. I was considering some trak grips from Specialty Tire in the U.S.A. that are 10 ply with a maximum single tyre load rating 2965 lbs at a 60 psi cold inflation pressure. They seem adequate but same supplier also carries a 14 ply tire with a single tyre load rating of 4275 lbs. I believe that I read the posts where you recommended and or used the 16 ply tyres and would like to know what the single tyre load rating is on those tyres so that I can consider/compare to the tyres from Specialty Tire. Regards, Terry.

Hello All. A few questions on Ferret tyres. For those of you who have replaced your Ferret tyres with recent manufactured bar grip tyres, did you or are you able to reinstall the original runflat inserts. Are the bar grip tyres 8ply or greater? What is the number of ply's or ply rating on original Dunlop Trak Grips used on Ferrets? Regards, Terry.

Question about rear casing and bearing housing has answered itself. After removing the bearing from the housing, I gave the housing a tap from the rear and it slid out from the rear flywheel casing. Little effort was needed and glad this worked out the way it did. It would have most likely leaked after the flywheel was reassembled/installed and would have resulted in a second go at it. Sourced a new rear bearing from a local supplier. Bearing is SKF #6209. Will be using Permatex Anaerobic Sealant with recommended surface prep spray. Spoke with one of their technical reps who recommended this product after describing the application to him. Not sure if anyone else has discovered this, but a 25mm socket is a better/tighter fit on the flywheel drain/filler plug. I found that with a 1" socket or proper flywheel plug tool, the fit is somewhat sloppy and results in rounded corners on the filler plug. Thinking back to a few months ago when I topped up the oil in the flywheel, using the 25mm socket to break the seal and using the proper tool to remove the plug would be a good way to do this. Reading other threads on the subject of the Ferret fluid flywheel, the double lipped John Deere seal AT52447 is often suggested as a good alternative to a single lip original seal. When disassembling the flywheel on my Ferret, I found the seal to be of the John Deere type. I was not aware of this repair having been done before I took ownership of the Ferret. This prompted a call to the previous owner who explained that it was changed about 5 years ago. Here are some observations about the use of this seal that others might find helpful. The leak on my Ferret was from the outer flywheel flange and not the seal. The seal has been in for the last five years and has held up for that time although the Ferret has seen minimal use. The seal was still pliable/soft. The seal had a good fit around the runner shaft and a good tight fit into the seal housing. The lipped metal washer that fits against the seal was put in with the lip facing away from the seal. There seem to be no issues with this. Hope this info is helpful to anyone else facing this repair. Best Regards, Terry. Terry.

Nick. Your team has done a great job on the Saracen. What a difference from when you showed me around CWC back in December. Look forward to another visit and having a first hand look. Best Regards, Terry.

Hi Robin. Yes, Terry from Mississauga. Have seen the pics of your flywheel overhaul and noticed that you did remove the bearing and housing from the rear casing. The field repairs technical handbook seems to suggest doing this when dismantling the the fluid flywheel in paragraph 30(d) but then states not to do it in paragraph 33(e). Am I reading these paragraphs correctly? Did you have any issues when doing this. From your pics, looks as though you made up a gasket to put between the bearing housing and rear casing. Handbook does not make reference or specify using such a gasket but does specify the use of jointing compound. Your thoughts? You most likely replaced the bearing, do you have a makers name and bearing number. Spent most of the afternoon cleaning the casing flanges and other parts. What a pain in the you know what!! Sent you a CD with pics from Aquino Tank Day. Have they arrived as yet? Terry

Hi All. Last fall, I had introduced myself as the new owner of MK2/3 Ferret 00DC75. Have completed a number of repairs, mostly fuel system, and I am now resolving a fluid flywheel leak. Have identified the leak as coming from the front/rear casing flange and I've started the repair. Since everything is already disassembled, I will also change the seal. When reading the field repairs handbook (EMERegulations, Wheeled Vehicles V 624, Ferret MK 1 & 2, Technical Handbook-Field Repairs) paragraph 30(d) states "Remove the rear bearing and housing from the rear casing." Further on, paragraph 33(e) states "No attempt should be made to remove the housing from the rear casing. The housing is pressed into the casing and then machined to receive the bearing." Are these two paragraphs refering to the same housing and if yes, which is correct with regards to remove or not remove the housing? I ask this as paragraph 31(d) states "Use jointing compound on...rear bearing housing" and I want to ensure this is done if required . Also wondering if anyone has gone so far as to remove the flywheel bearing front center when overhauling the fluid flywheel because of a leak? Again, I ask this as there must be some kind of seal and wonder if it is possible that it could leak. The backside of the front casing is not visible and I assume that seeing a leak from that area would only be possible by removing the flywheel bearing front center. Paragraph 33(f) states "DO NOT remove the center from the flywheel" while the first part of paragraph 35 (starting ring renewal) states "remove...flywheel bearing front center". Thanks in advance for any help or thoughts on this and I hope my questions make sense. Terry.

Hi All. Last fall, I introduced myself as the new owner of Ferret 00DC75. Since then I've carried out some repairs such as carb/fuel pump rebuild, inside sandblasting/coating of fuel tank and changing/top-up of all oils. After a recent drive, I noticed that a fair bit of oil had accumulated at the bottom of the engine bay and a lesser amount had run forward along the bottom of the Ferret towards the drivers seat. I suspected this as being from the fluid flywheel as oil was thin with very little odour. I opened the flywheel filler plug and fluid level was down from being just recently topped up. There did not appear to be any fresh oil spun out from the flywheel seal area and it looked as though there may have been some fresh oil/wet areas around the flanged edge where the front and rear casing are bolted together. Area around the filler plugs was also dry. I've just finished removing the flywheel and before reassembling with RTV gasket sealant and a new flywheel seal, I thought I would ask the following question. Is it possible that oil could be leaking out from the back of the front casing/flywheel front center. Hope this question is clear or makes sense. It was interesting to note that all bolts on the flywheel casing backed off easily, there were no securing strips on any of the bolts and the rear casing came forward or easily seperated from the front casing. Terry

Hi Dana. I'm in Mississauga...QEW/Erin Mills Pkwy area. Nice collection of vehicles. I picked up MK 2/3 Ferret last fall and joined the forum shortly thereafter. Look forward to meeting some day and having a closer look at your collection. Best Regards, Terry.

Matt. Thanks for the reply. Earlier in the year, I tried to purchase one of the Canadian Ferrets from a gentleman in the U.S. but that deal did not work out. I had known about the Ferret that I now own for some time and decided it was time to get on with owning/operating a military vehicle. Although I've had it for only a few weeks, I'm very pleased and look forward to the adventures ahead. Best Regards, Terry.

Paul/Nick. Thanks for the reply to my introductory post. I get up to Ottawa at least twice a year...great city. Will be in Cornwall at some point during the Christmas Holidays...could possibly plan a visit to Ottawa so that I could meet the two of you and have a look at your Ferret and other vehicles. Your Ferret looks to be in great shape and I hope to have my Ferret looking the same at some point down the line. Thanks for the offer of support and I will most likely contact you with questions. Best Regards, Terry.

My mistake...should have been more clear. When saying "Served in the Canadian Navy back in the mid 80's...Mar Eng Tech (Stoker)", I was refering to myself. Thanks for reply/feedback. Best Regards, Terry. "

Hi Robin. Have sent you a pm. Terry.

Thanks to all for the Welcome. Vehicle history cards show this to be a Mark 2/3 that served with the British Army of the Rhine. This Ferret was not one used by the Canadian Army but was imported to Canada sometime in 1995 after being sold off by the British Army. Has been owned by two others before me. Terry.

Hi All. Just a quick message to say hello and introduce myself. After many years of considering the acquisition of a military vehicle and wanting something armoured and street legal, I have recently purchased MK2/3 Ferret, 00DC75. Needs some work but is all there and running. Look forward to the adventure ahead and sharing stories. Served in the Canadian Navy back in the mid 80's...Mar Eng Tech (Stoker). Terry Witiuk, Mississauga, Ontario.