andypugh
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Posts posted by andypugh
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Don't worry, i drive a Fordson standard N, i have plenty of practice with handle
Google suggests that the Fordson has an impulse coupling on the magneto. Is there any evidence that the Halley had one?
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I decided I should be able to make the taper on a Bridgeport milling machine
That was rather a cunning bit of machining. I guess to an extent you were lucky that the part was small enough to swing on the rotary table.
I wonder if a threaded and welded lathe-turned taper insert would have worked if you had not been able to rotate the work?
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Nasty ! Was anyone "severely killed" like the last photos ?
21 dead in the Boston Molasses Flood
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I tend to agree, screws were quite expensive and would typically be used for things that may have to come apart later.
I did manage to change my own mind half-way through my original comment :-)
Our 1916 Dennis fire engine has a body almost entirely held together with screws. The work loose with monotonous regularity. At least with a screw you can re-righten it. I don't know what you do if nails work loose.
It may be that there was an expectation of much longer service life with a fire engine, and also the possibility of replacing fire-damaged sections of the body.
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Does anyone know what the truck is in photo7 ? It is very heavily built, full forward control
It might not have been Forward-Control earlier in the day...
Very odd to modern eyes to see crowds posing with a cash aftermath.
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I find it is interesting that Dan casts his name in some of his Halley parts,
I normally stamp "RCSMC" and the year f manufacture on the parts I make for our Dennis.
Many of the parts I have made are now eligible for HCVS runs in their own right, and the club has rally plaques from 1955.
The history of a vehicle by no means ends when it enters preservation.
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Yes! I have taken quite a fancy to this Latil but we have enough to keep us going until I drop! I saw it on the Brighton run when I was at college.
Are you sure that it is the same one? The Latil I recall from Brighton around then had Portal Axles.
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Turning a groove in the shaft for a circlip would be my approach.
This would be a good engineering solution. But the circlip wasn't invented until 1927. I tend to see these vehicles as archives of engineering practice for their time, so my preference is always to use date-appropriate solutions.
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However there is an oil way up the centre of the shaft which feeds the shaft bearing so a pin would block it. In fact this oil feed is probably the cause of our problems as at up to 40psi pressing on the end of the shaft, it generates an end load of up to 20lbs!
There you are then, a taper-pin solves both problems :-)
Is there no possibility of finding a taper pin small enough to not completely block the hole but big enough to do the job?
A cross-drilled or waisted taper pin is probably being silly.
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A taper-pin would have been authentic for the period.
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It will be interesting to know what others do!
I have a vision of a whole squad of "little Dutch boys" :-)
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Bonnet Rest that is attached to the Scuttle is not directly attached to the Scuttle face to face but there are four shaped wooden parts that go between the two.
I wonder why? Perhaps simply so the bonnet doesn't rub the scuttle when lifted? Otherwise it seems somewhat pointless.
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That's starting to look quite a lot like a vehicle, isn't it?
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ILooks like a great bit of work:
It does look like a nice bit of work, though it is being made in a slightly modern style. If authenticity is important then it should maybe have screws rather than nails holding it together.
Of course, I only know how the bodies of Dennis Fire Engines were built, it is entirely possible that American trucks for the war effort were built in a different style for economy and expediency.
Thinking about it, I read a blog about restoring a lathe stand that seemed to have a surprising number of nails in it, so should consider retracting my comment above.
I can't seem to find any post earlier than number 6
The finished item:
I used this as a reference when making my own replica lathe cabinet.
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Yes it did work , I was just probably too impatient .The dimensions for the cover are: 113mm wide, tight, and 121mm top to bottom , tight. I think the cover thickness would be around 2mm. These dimensions are for the inside of the cover.
Model updated, and PM sent to move this offline for a bit.
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The link did not work at this stage.
Strange, it works for someone else I asked to try it. What web browser?
Someone mentioned a "Continue" button to be pressed.
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And another with radiator.
it looks like an easy restoration candidate in that picture[1]. I wonder of the rad still exists?
[1] In the context of some of the other starting points seen here
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also a pic of the ever elusive fuse cover .Cheers from The Tank Factory.
On a whim I have created a 3D model of something a bit like the cover. (It is something I have done for a living, took me 15 minutes this lunchtime)
If you give me the actual dimensions (base size, corner radius, thickness, height to underside of clip with the right spring-load then I can modify the model into something you can get 3D-printed.
The link should take you to a web-based model viewer. Let me know if it doesn't, there might be problems with permissions.
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You might have been able to do the internal shape with the shaper too, there should be a long-nosed tool, You need to lock the clapper box, though.
However, I am left wondering why you didn't have the outer profile wire-eroded too?
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One of these?
http://ccmv.aecsouthall.co.uk/p818743552/h4a04bae4#h4a04bae4
Has the linked dumb-irons, but different wheels.
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7-spoke wheels makes for fast filtering of Google Images photos.
The Liberty trucks have 7-spoke wheels and a similar style of spring hanger, but without the bar. The hubs are heavier too.
Given that the 7-spoke cast wheel was a Dayton Foundry patent ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Walther_Sr.#World_War_I_-_U.S._Army_Liberty_Trucks ) it seems likely that the truck is American. Though it might well be post-war (the finned exhaust manifold seems quite advanced).
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we are going to be off the road for a couple of months. What a nuisance.
You could fix the collar then put everything back together and run like that for a while, the evidence seems to be that the impeller is still impelling, if you didn't overheat.
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Uttterly amazing! Does it work on a variety of metals? What about non-metals?
Very off-topic but here is the company website
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No visible debris?
I think anything with low conductivity is just vapourised.
And can this be a dangerous weapon?Yes, but then it would be quite possible to wire-brush someone to death too.
I would anticipate that the optics are set up to have a divergent beam so that intensity falls off quickly with distance.
WW1 Thornycroft restoration
in Pre WW2 vehicles
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Quite a sturdy part considering that certain other manufacturers seemed to consider "nothing at all" to be adequate.