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Minesweeper

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Posts posted by Minesweeper

  1. Well done with the Radmore find! We have one on the Dennis and have been looking for one for the Thorny for years - but they seem to be as rare as Hens Teeth! Steve is now resolved in making a copy of one for the Thorny but one or two of our friends have said that if you are doing that, make one for me, too!

    Tony

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  2. I have found Taps and Dies now at a very reasonable price so it looks more like "home manufacture" again!

    But it still does not explain to me why Peerless used these less common threads - having done our other American Trucks - the FWD and the two Autocars - where they used the more common UNC and UNF threads. What could the reasoning have been?

    Tony

  3. On 5/15/2019 at 1:40 PM, MatchFuzee said:

    Could be. 

    Thread calculator and data for UNS and other UN threads:-

    http://theoreticalmachinist.com/Threads_UnifiedImperial.aspx

    "Radio Mike 7" -you were right all along! They are 1/2" x 18 UNS ! Confirmed that quite by chance - I was still desperate to identify them and  had a look on U.S.A Amazon for Tap and Die 1/2" x 18 - they were there - did not say UNS but they were cheap and I ordered them. The Die has arrived with Tap to follow and the Die is marked NS ! Able to check that on the surviving good threads - and a perfect fit! Well identified - and thank you!

    Tony

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  4. The Peerless continues to throw up unusual threads - the smaller studs on top of the Crank Case are 5/16" x 20. Although tap and die are available, I really do not want to have to make up a lot of steel nuts of that size if there is a Supplier  who holds them. Does anybody know of one, please?

    Tony

  5. That is exactly what we do with Hand Signals. Turning left does concern me just a little as I wonder sometimes if a driver in a following car would be alert enough and would understand a passenger's arm sticking out on the near side when perhaps he would only be looking for signals on the driver's side.

     

  6. 2 hours ago, Minesweeper said:

    No, not yet! Fortunately, all of the studs and their nuts seem to be in good order - so they might have to fight again! I realy am curious about what we are going to find next!

    I have just had a word with Steve about that thread again and although I have done no research, he tells me that UNS comes in a variety of pitches - the 1/2" ones are - 12UNS, 14UNS, 18UNS and 24 UNS - so this could be the answer!

    Tracy Tools always seem to have a very wide range of threading Tools so if needs be, perhaps they can help! We will try to save the originals if we can.

    Tony

     

  7. 2 hours ago, radiomike7 said:

    Did you manage to identify the crankcase/cylinder stud threads?

    No, not yet! Fortunately, all of the studs and their nuts seem to be in good order - so they might have to fight again! I realy am curious about what we are going to find next!

  8. I walked past the Peerless Crankcase a day or two ago and of course, the 1/2" studs which hold the cylinders to it are still screwed in it, and they caught my eye. I assumed that  the thread on those would be either 1/2" Whit or 1/2" UNC - it would have been but unlikely, I thought, but maybe 1/2" BSF or 1/2" UNF. Following my earlier confusion with the BSB thread on the Cam Followers and Tappets, I thought that I would check those studs! And guess what - they are 18 tpi - so none of the aforementioned threads!

    Any thoughts on that one, please?

    Tony

  9. Well, I made a meal out of identifying this thread and thanks to all for their input - Ruxy, you were right all the time with the BSB identification and why didn't I think of that one? Emma (Cornish Made), thank your dad for his memory of it when he did the Cornish Peerless all those years ago!

    So now, we plough on again!

    Tony

  10. It just occurred to me to check the threads on the studs in the Crank Case which hold the bronze castings down - described in the Parts Book as the "Valve Plunger Guide". Steve took the Bronze Guides off with the Cam Followers still in them - all complete -15 of the nuts came off easily and the last one came out bringing the stud with it.

    The studs are 5/16" in diameter I would expect that the TPI on them to be either 18 or 22 - possibly 24 but I guess it will not surprise you now when I found that they are 20 TPI ! I have double checked this by trying 5/16" Whit/UNC/UNF, and BSF nuts on the studs but they do not fit. What am I missing?

    What are we going to find when we get further into the engine, I wonder?

    Tony

  11. 14 minutes ago, Gordon_M said:

    Well I'm out of immediate ideas for this.

    You have looked at American threads, but you can match neither the pitch nor the diameter.

    You have looked at Metric threads, and can match the diameter and approximate the pitch ( binding after 3/8" )

    I can only suspect the hidden hands of Peerless Trading here, like the water pump.  Is it some antique British thread, like a BA variation or something for Wheeltappers & Shunters?  ( gives age away )

    Made me smile!

    Tony

  12. I now have M8 x 1.0 pitch Nuts and Bolts - but remain puzzled! The nuts screw on the original Tappet thread comfortably and I would be perfectly content to use them as the locking nuts for future use. The bolts screw in finger tight to a depth of about 3/8" only but then they start to tighten which makes me think that this cannot be right - they should screw down to almost 1 3/8" length to be similar to the originals if this is the right size.

    Further thoughts, please!

    Tony

    IMG_5886.JPG

  13. On ‎5‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 7:01 PM, andypugh said:

    5/16 UNF is 0.3035 OD at 24tpi once you take in to account thread truncation. (5/16 UNEF is rather larger) 

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m5zkO9-SbQaYWbTPlQXJ2VA73Ys8WgWDrPk_rEukHc0/

    It would be 0.3038" @ 25 TPI, which would fit the stated thread gauge better. 

    As others have said, the engine predates the standards that we have tables for, and there is no need for those parts to be _any_ standard as they are not intended to be interchangeable fasteners. So the degree of crest truncation (or even rounding) might make up the difference. 

    You might be able to figure something out by the shape of the roots and crests (flats or rounded) but that would take a lot of work with a shadowgraph for dubious benefit. 

    I tried a 5/16" UNF Nut and Bolt on them today to test the threads, just to make sure - and they do not go. Starts off but binds up.

  14. All very interesting and I am pleased to be helped and advised!

    The outside diameter -  of the surviving clean threads is .3032" or 7.78 mm. No joy with an Imperial Thread Gauge on it and the nearest I can get to this is with a metric Thread Gauge - 1mm - and the bolt thread sits very comfortably on that so I assumed that it must be a 8mm fine thread............

    I have no threading tackle of that size but I await some 8mm 1 Nuts and bolts and it will be interesting to see if they fit.

  15. 9 hours ago, Tomo.T said:

    Thanks for that, some of these pits are 1/4 "deep and not yet through. My concern is blasting actual holes through the sump which would be tragic !  I am encouraged by the performance claims of some of the epoxy repair pastes, Belzona, Devcon, JB weld etc. and this seems to be the way ahead, the prices are shocking......but cheaper than a new casting obviously.

    I used Devcon on the corroded  insides of the two Radiator Tanks on the Dennis - this was after a thorough cleaning but it was a waste of time. It just did not last. Perhaps the inside of a Radiator with varying temperatures did not help. But a well known Old Vehicle Restorer did say to me at the time that it would be a waste of time - and money- trying to repair an Aluminium Radiator like that.

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