ramerry

High all, at a swap meet herein Aus. at the weekend, picked up this Blackout Mask. Have no idea what it is off .. It is no real use to me so any reasonable offer plus postage to whoever would like it.

Thanks Ron, I was told that the Flea 3/2 Carby which was a modified 3/1 was because it was fitted to a R.E.engine due to the choke & the air filter being to long for the Amal Carb.causing it to stick out to far & i presume because of needle change for a different mixture for the R.E. Engine

Thanks Lex, I have a Flea which has a 3/2 Carb. I was interested to see if this 3/1 was an ML carb or just a standard Villiers as it had rather a lot of numbers stamped on the stub end. The air maze filter also has a raised end on it unlike the flat end of the Flea.

Hi people, another bit of help if possible, started to strip down another 9D and on removing the Carby i found 3 sets of numbers on the stub end, 3.1 which i presume is the type, 3418 & V577C. I know that V577 is the part No.. but do not know what the C after the No. designates or what the 3418 No. is. Also had the Military type choke but the lever on the top has had the snapped of & wondering if any one has a spare around also had the large wire air Maze cleaner which is not in bad condition. I would to know if this was of a James ML or just a plain 3/1 Carby if possible.

Thanks Ron

Thanks for all the replies, the bloke who has the bike has gone very quiet since i asked him where the engine No. was stamped whether it was on the gear box cover or on the engine casing so i would say that he has been passing a civvy of as a WD model which does not bother me as long as they say it is a copy & not a genuine WD model.

He did say originally the the frame No. was 6769 that was on a lug, but no he has not shared any photos.

Bit of a bother over a James ML frame No. I have a feeling it could be a bodgy one. The No. is ML12031 & he is claiming it to be a 1945 Machine. Information I have is last WD ones went to ML8500 although there was possibly 200 went to the Admiralty but no paper work known. Civilian ML Models were 1946 ML's started at ML12841, 1947 started at ML19881 & 1948 started at 26921. Would any body have any idea on this please.

Sorry Ron , The blanking plug on the headlight,replaces the Ammeter.

Hi, I keep forgetting, August every shuts for the month.

Hi Ron, Thanks again, I went & saw my friendly Electroplater no go on that idea I'm afraid. I have noticed people have been asking about the blanking plug I was baffled for a while but I went and got a Brass domed truck Welch plug, very little filing to get the edges right, bronzed a 3/16 flat head machine screw underneath with a flat plate to hold it down. It was only a couple of dollars with very little work. I have emailed Arnaud but if he is away working sometimes takes a while to reply. Thanks once again Richard

Hi Ron, I think that would be a brushed Chrome rather than a bright chrome. I might go down & see my friendly Electroplater and see if he can brush plate the brass section without ruining the Enamel parts. My father Had his own Electroplating shop in London & by God I wished i had taken more notice. A good Electroplater is worth his weight in gold now. Also I was wondering if you could send me the the length of Clutch & Brake lever.

Hi, could anyone please give me Metal Magics address. Regards Richard

Hi, thanks for the info. The trouble here is I can only work from the parts or maintenance manuals as there is a very limited amount of "Fleas" here in Aus & the ones I have seen are usually civilian fakes. I download an awful amount of photo's if I see them but you will always see something different so its hard to work out whats correct & what isn't.. I have had a few parts from Arnaud & i will see of he has any plates left & I will check out Metal Magic to see if they have any filter bodies. Good if you could give me the length of brake & clutch handles. I will have to admit plug lead was hanging on the wall left over from a 1932 Chev i did many years ago Regards

Hi Ron, thanks for reply, my idea was to find an old fashioned engraver to engrave the brass part out & fill with white. Trouble is there is no such person as an old time engraver these days, showed a few & they all went to water, they can only use panto graph engravers these days controlled by a computer. I have been given the name of one in Melbourne which i will try & get in touch with, but i hate having to travel up to the city these days Richard.

Hi Ron, Mine nearly all there, Still a few bits to go, still looking for original badge & Miller Tail Light. Had crankshaft rebuilt I will whisper, it has Harley rollers cut down to fit. I made the Miller taillight, Local exhaust man expanded some exhaust pipe to fit the original light bracket , also some brass half round was made in a tight circle so when heated slipped over the pipe when it cooled shrunk tight, paint putty took care of the finish. I have a later badge from Hitchcocks & have been trying here to find an engraver to take some of the brass so as i can fill it with white. I did try the mob in North Devon who wanted £200 which thought was a bit rich seeing as they would then be able to sell to anyone for half the price seeing they had the mold. I got the switch top , lodge cap & resistor copies from Arnaud. & he has done a marvelous job. Afraid it has been reassigned to Australian Army as it was easier to get Australian Arm Olive Drab to paint it. I have tried to keep as original as i can but sourcing parts here Australia is virtually impossible & Flea Bay is drying up worse than the drought we are in at the moment. Regards Richard Geelong Australia

hi, thanks for reply's, I have been using " A guide to restoring the Royal Enfield WD/RE " By Cameron Jamieson in which states that the booklet draws on the extensive knowledge & photographs of Steve Madden (UK), Ron Pier(UK), Lex Schmidt(NL) & Jan Vandevelde(NL). A Paragraph states, quote C Numbers There is evidence to suggest that some manufacturers, including BSA used water slide or varnish-affixed transfer lettering....our Royal Enfield Flying Flea here still had the remains of the (1944) serial numbers on the fuel tank beneath two layers of post war paint...and these were definitely of the transfer type. end quote I have tried Classic Transfers & they only have two sizes 2 in & 1 3/4 in which i think are UK regulation Number sizes, also they are shut down at the moment due to holidays. I did get a set of 1 3/4in. numbers from them but the Flea tank is quite a small tank & wont take the size which ends up about 12in. in length. I was looking at the Water slide sheets on Ebay but I an not sure that with my hands that cutting out 16 letters & numbers that they would look a bit rough.

Hi, trying to find waterslide transfers for the Census numbers on my flying flea. The only ones I can find are from Classic Transfers & are to big. they are 1 3/4 in. Which are really to big for the size of the tank. I need something about 1 1/4 in. to at most 1 1/2in. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, thank you for the info, If i do get a badge made at least they will have copy there, I believe they do most of it now by computer so once they have one made they should be able to produce them if any one else needs one. Richard

G'day all, I am in the process of gradually restoring a 45 Flea. Engine No V6297/10102 frame same No. Trying to keep as original as possible. I have been looking for an original tank badge which i think is now showing to be an impossible task. I have decided to get one made from Pamela & David Enamels down in North Devon. I need a good photo of an original WD badge taken without flash and a big a resolution as possible & front on. I will be sending them a post war one as well so they use it for size. They cant get round to making one till April 2017 so I still have time to get lucky.Also the Fag end tail light, I have the mounting but no tube & reflector any leads on one would be appreciated. Have a good day. Richard Geelong Australia