MB1944

The parts are readily available in this country as I already stated, we have purchased second hand bodies from the sam source, as they used to offer rebuilt units but no longer offer this service. I have rebuilt three now and the important thing to remember is that the cast iron face for the seal must be good and flat and true to the centre line of the pump shaft or you will end up with a leaky pump.

Best regards

John

Belcher Engineering carry all the spares to rebuild these pumps 01379 8900913.

Best regards

John

It does look a very similar colour to the olive drab on a 1944 GPW rear axle that I am restoring.

Regards

John

What are the dimensions for the earlier towing eye please?

Regards

John

Mike,

Land Rover (and Rolls B Range) are 3/4" reach plugs. The Daimler has 1/2" reach plugs. The problem with 3/4" reach plugs could be that if the threads protrudes into the combustion chamber they will get deposits on them and prove difficult to remove.

So which plugs did you recommend in the pub?

The enquiries I have made with military vehicle insurers have revealed that most don't cover public liability at shows.

The MVT has no scheme to offer individual public liability insurance.

As the wobble started after you had gone over a rough bit of road, it would be worth checking for wear in the king pin bearings.

Hi Commander

just digging out my shorts and T-shirt for the heatwave tomorrow.

Have you tried approaching the MVT General Secretary he should be able to advise and assist you.

Whether it has a positive or negative earth doesn't matter much to the actual device; it just connects to the positive and negative terminals and runs when there is a complete circuit.

Really?

Ready made ones here (near bottom of page)

 

http://www.ww2fabrications.com/britishsaslrdg.htm

Thanks for the info I have seen these and feel that they are too expensive and only appear to be of one size. I am led to believe there could have been up to three sizes. If I find the sizes I will get some made, I already have one sample.

Regards

John

Does any one have dimensions for the spring clips used to store weapons on WW11 British vehicles?

John

The series has been good so far.

John

I agree with the previous two comments, it is no good being authentically dead or injured, your personal safety is the only concern.

John

If you put new bearing shells in the same size as the originals without regrinding the crank, the bearings will not be any tighter than the old ones, the journal diameter cannot have "grown".

If you were able to turn the engine over as you reassembled it, I would check the battery leads as suggested earlier.

Another thing worth considering is the condition of the battery leads. I did a similar job years ago. Before I had the engine out the engine turned over pretty well, however with new rings, shells and seals it turned over to slowly.

A friend suggested that it could be the battery leads as he had experienced the same problem on an escort van. I admit I was dubious as the Jeep had thick 6V leads and I was running with 12V. I replaced them with new 12V cables and the engine flew over and fired up. When I stripped the old leads it was clear that they had deteriorated over the years building up a massive resistance, which only came to light with the tighter engine.

If you are running 6V the correct size cables can be made from 70mm welding cable and correct crimp lugs, incidentally it helps to fit an extra earth lead from the battery tray to the steady bracket at the back of the starter motor.

John

There was definitely a long thread on G503 regarding tight seals.

John

Thanks for the info about setting up the points etc.

We did try the Green Spark Plug Company which was recommended by some one at Stoneleigh, but he had just sold his only one he had left to somebody in the States, and did not know of any others.

Regards

John

I remember getting one from Belcher engineering when I had my WOT2

 

Jules

Thanks for all the info, Belcher are out of stock. I managed to find some one selling three on ebay so we have bought two, one to fit and one as spare. Lucas part no. for cap turns out to be 411029 which corresponds to the Fordson part no. WOT1-12116.

These caps are clearly not an off the shelf item, I think the hot rod guys must be using the Ford distributor.

I did find an advert in America saying that the Lucas distributor is far superior and was used on post war British performance cars.

Regards

John

You can get the Ford ones easy enough, but that means swapping it out. The original distributor is a Lucas 411052 with a 411026 cap, 411050 body and 411031 rotor.

 

They do show up every so often, but I've not found a regular source.

Thanks that is just the info I was looking for.

Hi

Does anyone have, or know where I can get hold of a distributor cap for a WOT2 with a Lucas distributor?

John

Hi

Thanks for that, but , I bought all the components from Belcher Engineering and built the pump in my workshop, now up and running.

John

I have two questions. What is your degree in, and do you have any mechanical aptitude? These questions need to be answered before any realistic advice can be given.

It would be helpful to see a picture of the compass to identify it.

Is this one of those events we have to guess the month ?

Commander

One for Columbo methinks!

MB1944