mtskull

7 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

Rolls Royce manual states normal oil pressure when driving in top gear is 30 psi as I recall. Regarding oil pressure at idle,  maybe you have it idling too slow?

i think your starter is a coaxial type, I rebuilt a B61 last year and that was 12 volt, think that was a CAV starter. No visual solenoid on these.

regards Richard 

 

 

Thanks Richard,

30psi when driving is in accordance with what I've been seeing on the gauge, so if that's normal I'm not too concerned about it being low at idle; maybe I will just tweak the idle speed up a bit.

Our starter doesn't have a visible solenoid either; it is contained inside the casing at the rear of the starter. I bench tested it with the casing off just to check that everything worked as it should; it does with no problems until it is installed and warmed up.

I have now swapped starters with another 12v B80 in the fleet, so if the problem is cured we will know that it is the starter that is at fault, whereas if it persists, we will know that it is a fault on the vehicle.

Andy

A couple more B80 queries:

Went out for a run last weekend; warm weather and engine working fairly hard. Water temp steady between 160-180F, oil temp much the same. When properly hot, oil pressure at idle was only showing 5psi, increasing to 15 at fast idle and 30-40 when driving.

Is this normal, or should we be investigating the condition of the oil pump and bearings?

My other query concerns the starter motor (Simms, 12 Volt). It works fine time after time when cold but once the engine is hot, nothing happens when pressing the starter button except that the ammeter shows a discharge of 10 Amps. 

I have taken the starter off, inspected it and bench tested it successfully through 100 cycles but when re-installed, the same issue arises. I initially thought that the pinion might be jamming on the ring gear but there is not even any clicking from the solenoid; furthermore, turning the engine manually doesn't help (although it will start on the hand crank). I suspect that the solenoid has developed a fault that only manifests itself when hot. Has anybody else experienced this?

We have a spare starter but it is military spec. and is marked 24 Volt. Can anybody tell me if there are any fundamental differences, or is the only implication of using this on a 12 Volt system the fact that it would draw twice the current?

Any thoughts/suggestions welcome.

A couple more B80 questions:

Went out for a run yesterday; engine working fairly hard. Water temp steady between 160-180F, oil temp much the same. When properly hot, oil pressure at idle was only showing 5psi, increasing to 15 at fast idle and 30-40 when driving.

Is this normal, or should we be investigating the condition of the oil pump and bearings?

The other query concerns the starter motor (12 v). It works fine time after time when cold but once the engine is hot, nothing happens when pressing the starter button except that the ammeter shows a discharge of 10 Amps. I have taken the starter off, inspected it and bench tested it successfully through 100 cycles but when re-installed, the same issue arises. I initially thought that the pinion might be jamming on the ring gear but there is not even any clicking from the solenoid and turning the engine manually doesn't help (although it will start on the hand crank). I suspect that the solenoid has a fault that only manifests itself when hot but if anybody has experienced the same problem or can offer any advice,  that would be most welcome.

Andy

On 29 April 2018 at 7:34 PM, Boley said:

For now I will do a temporary repair and maybe in the future I can lift the cab off and remove the block.

As long as you are certain that the cracking is only affecting the external water jackets and if leakage is all that you are concerned about,  there are several products which you add to the coolant which will seal the cracks permanently. I can personally recommend Holts Wundaweld. I recently tried this on a Rolls-Royce B80 with frost damage (more in hope than expectation of success) and it hasn't leaked a drop since.

10 hours ago, Old Bill said:

I have since stripped the carburettor down to see if there was any dirt in the main jet passages but there was nothing obvious. The jets are the sizes published in the manual so I am puzzled and open to suggestions please. 

For what it is worth, my gut feeling is fuel starvation. Could the problem be something as simple as incorrect float level? You mention that there is a way to hold the float down; I would suggest holding it down slightly until the engine note changes as the mixture richens, then begin to open the throttle. 

It might be of use to the chaps rebuilding Donald Campbell's Bluebird hydroplane, as it was originally skinned with the stuff. Google "Bluebird Project".

Not exactly playing Devil's advocate myself but, having spent many years in the motor trade (a long time ago) and having recently become involved with the maintenance of some heavy-ish preserved vehicles, I am of the opinion that no vehicle used on the road should be exempt from MOT testing unless it is operated by an organisation with the capability and responsibility to subject it to a stringent routine maintenance schedule, e.g. The MoD and emergency services.

A case recently came to my attention, of a preserved vehicle from the 1950's which is MOT exempt and in use on the road. One day, the owner complained that the brakes were poor. To cut a long story short, it transpired that the front brakes were not working at all (cylinders all seized), the rear brake cylinders were working (but leaking) and one rear hub oil seal had failed, allowing oil to contaminate the linings on that side. So, only one wheel with effective braking on a vehicle which weighs over eight tons and is capable of over 60mph. How long the vehicle had been used on the road in that condition is anybody's guess but my point is that a rolling road check as part of an MOT test would have flagged up these issues long before the vehicle became the deathtrap that it was.

Yes, I know that you all maintain your vehicles to an impeccable standard but there are also people with older vehicles who will do the minimum that they can get away with. The requirement for an annual MOT test raises the standard of that minimum and, let's face it, is a relatively inexpensive way of obtaining a pretty comprehensive roadworthiness check for your own peace of mind.

9 hours ago, Old Bill said:

We are definitely getting into the 'barest minimum' mode now. Nothing is being done wrong (except perhaps the oil fill tube) but we are aiming to do 'just enough'. It is still going to be touch and go though!

 

 

That oil fill tube is a work of art! It speaks volumes about the high standards that you set yourselves, that you consider it to have been "done wrong". 

Fingers crossed that you meet your deadline....

On 10 January 2016 at 8:58 PM, 16svt said:

 

Lifting class 50 radiators of 1 1/4 ton.

 

I would like to say that the lifting I have done was all on a none commercial basis. It was a private lift for a friend on his private locomotive. No money changed hands and it was nothing at all to do with the company I work for.

 

Class 50 rads, fitted and roof going back on, with rad fan to be fitted later.

Apologies for raking up the past; I have come late to this thread.

Would that Class 50 be "Thunderer" by any chance?

I have just been comparing the latest photos with the "as found" photos from the first post in this thread. Very impressive indeed, especially for an "entry level" restoration!

I can't wait to see a video of it running.

In some ways the absence of a chassis number makes things easier, as does the fact that the manufacturer no longer exists. 

I enquired about registering a 1934 BMW motorcycle and was told categorically by the DVLA that they would not accept evidence from the appropriate club; only an extract from the manufacturer's production records would do.

BMW will provide this information but require proof of ownership in the form of....... a registration document!

On 5 March 2018 at 4:00 PM, ruxy said:

Are such as a county police force a competent body to give a definative  ?

Different forces could give different opinions.

Much still needs to be tested in a court of law.

DVLA ,  Swansea  - are they actually civil servants ,  if not then what authority do they retain ?

-----------------------------

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/a-frames-and-dollies/a-frames-and-dollies

The DfT  -  still civil servants ,  try and communicate on such matters and you will be at a supervisory level the same as one of my sons (not a Dept. motor related) , don't expect any joy.   

A few years ago I tested out the  DfT  ,  by asking questions on points of law, also asked for full details of their performance testing of BRAKED dollies on which they base their replies on  -  zilch to date. Next time I intend to make good use of a  FOI     Again - only a court of law can give a ruling on what parliament / Sec. of state signing Regulations off intended.

 

 

 Be all that as it may and whatever actually proves to be definitive, don't forget that it will be the police and/or the DVLA who decide whether to prosecute you if you get caught, so best to go with their advice unless you want to be the person who actually tests this in a court of law. Even if decided in your favour, the cost of hiring a flatbed would seem like small change compared to a court case....

I'm with "MatchFuzee" on this one.

Although it can be helpful, I would be wary of basing identification primarily on a detail such as a headlamp protector, as this sort of equipment might well have been subject to addition or modification in the field. 

Fundamental details, such as chassis, axles and drive train are a more reliable means of identification; looking at these, I would say that the overturned lorry in the photo is certainly not the same model as the Opel in the museum.

Can we be sure that the overturned lorry is actually of German origin? -it is not beyond the bounds of possibility that it is a captured allied vehicle.

As I understand it, the Daimler 3 tonner (the German equivalent of Britain's "subsidy" lorries), had chain drive. Some heavier models had cardan shaft drive.

16 hours ago, Citroman said:

Did find this binoculars on an belgian fleamarket. Was attracted to it  by the engraved Touring Club de France. it was to remind that they were offered to the army in WW1. You also see engraved MG on the top. Which i first imagined being the owners initials but it turned out to be Ministere de Guerre. So next time you see old binoculars check those engravings.

 

That poster is fascinating and doesn't pull its punches:

"Cut down (literally "reaped") by a machine gun that they are unable to see"

"You can save the French soldiers"

"The machine gun that our soldiers did not see, killed them when they attacked. Give them the eyes to see and our cannons will destroy it"

"Here the naked eye sees nothing, the binoculars observe the machine gun"

"The battlefield seems empty but the enemy is everywhere, crouched in the gulleys or hidden in the woods, always ready to be unleashed and give a hail (literally "hurricane") of fire".

19 hours ago, Citroman said:

By the way it looks as the man in front of the fallen truck is using a large wooden jack. Not sure what is trying to lift though.

If that is a jack, then the extending piece appears to be bearing on the chassis dumb iron, which would make sense as it would tend to assist the righting action.

Don't know if it helps but it looks to me as if there is a hinge in the middle of the disk which would enable half of it to be flipped over, thus changing the colour of the disk, perhaps as a signal or an aide memoire to a crucial part of a checklist?

23 hours ago, Minesweeper said:

The DVLA has confirmed today that all of their formalities have been completed satisfactorily and as far as they are concerned, "CC1720" is road legal. We must think of and thank the late Mike Jones who saved the lorry originally and completed all of the legal requirements with the North Wales Police back in 1983 to save the Caernarvon Registration number for it.

Tony

 

 

That is good news! This has been such a fascinating thread to follow that I will almost be sorry when the Thornycroft is completed.

The restoration of your Peerless is eagerly awaited!

Something very interesting behind the Knox, too: Would that be the Maudslay?

Just worked out what the obscured lettering on the sign behind says:

"Appledore for Lydd & New Romney Branch"

I'll get my coat (sorry, anorak).......

Good luck trying to find a Hawker Henley anywhere, never mind in the UK! 

A few Queen Bees survive, including a couple in the UK. One of them was certainly airworthy recently, so a flypast might theoretically be possible. Plenty of Tiger Moths airworthy, which would provide a pretty good visual representation when airborne but might not satisfy the rivet counters....

A quick search turned these up: supplied to the Egyptian Railways in 1928 by Armstrong Whitworth.

The locomotive isn't an 8F, although the Egyptian railways certainly used the class.  The Belpaire boiler is similar but the dome, cab and number of wheels are all different. Most likely one of another British-built class that was supplied pre-war.

On 12 January 2018 at 7:33 AM, Aussie said:

Decided to first see if thermostat was stuck closed, and discovered that it's been removed, so scratch one possibility. Removed the electric pump and will get tubing to see if the mechanical pump works (guess not but it was a NOS motor). Next flush the radiator and check the pressure valve, I guess, and then look for scarier things like head gaskets. Lots to do but think it's worth sorting out for the longer term.

My question at this stage is, do I really need the thermostat? Will it cause terrible problems if left out?

Thanks,

James.

I won't pretend to be an expert on the subject but, having recently sorted a B80 engine that was boiling up, I'll add my thoughts. 

The Rolls-Royce manual for the B80 states that it is OK to run without a thermostat but in that case the bypass port must be blanked off (the bypass is the smaller pipe that comes out underneath the thermostat housing).

The thermostat has a clever arrangement whereby when the thermostat closes, the bypass port opens and vice versa. My knowledge of this isn't complete (Richard's yer man for that) but my understanding is that the coolant won't circulate properly if the thermostat and the bypass are open simultaneously.

Upon investigation, I found that our B80 had been running without a thermostat and with the bypass open. This wasn't the only problem (the radiator had seen better days) but fitting a thermostat made a big difference.

I don't know whether your engine is a B80 or B81 but as far as I can tell the thermostat arrangements are the same.

I hope this is helpful.

Andy

That's a Macchi 202 for sure. The Messerschmitt looks like the 109G model to me.