Grasshopper

Quite! Saves others the pain though. I certainly don't hold them in the esteem I once did, and mine were pretty good examples.

I've been approached by a few people over the years who've said "I'm thinking about buying a Land Rover". My usual answer (having had 7 of them) is "Don't!".

I recognise that style of wheel, and used to have the arm muscles to go with it! (many hours of driving RFs/RTs around country bus routes on weekends in the late 1990s).

Base overhauled in 1974, stored, then cast in '84. Recent recommissioning work included overhauled fuel tank and brake system, new stainless silencer, exhaust fishtail, NOS heat shield. All external bins present and in good condition. Interior stowage and some Larkspur coms boxes and headsets present. Road registered. Still wearing ex-MOD paint scheme. Some CES including wet weather windscreen. Located near Gatwick.

Selling on behalf of a friend, £12,000 ono

Morning Trevor, i only thought of this after talking to my brother in law, who works on the Bluebell railway, he said they have a loco with bad blow holes in tge cylinder bore, so to keep it going, the put belzona in it, he said its still going strong aftwr many years of working.

 

So i was keen to see if anyone had tried with a petrol engine.

 

I know which engine that is, as I volunteer there and was cleaning the bores last time we had the pistons out. I've used Belzona on a cracked lower radiator casting on a Matador, and that held up well. I had no money to send it for repair, but we had some Belzona lying around. Can't remember why we had that product (I worked for a firm that ran old busses, some parts were made of "unobtanium"), but whatever we did use it on never had problems again. It's a very good product as long as you do the prep correctly.

"If at first you don't succeed, give up and run away (then try again later)".

Loving this restoration blog. Been there (some years ago) with my first truck which was a Matador. Having not learned that lesson, I then bought a 2nd...

Vince

I wonder if Past Parts may be able to offer suitable alternatives? A few members on here have used them to re-sleeve brake cylinders.

http://www.pastparts.co.uk/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=8

Regards

Vince

That sounds like the friction plate has become rusted stuck to the flywheel so is still turning the gearbox input shaft. I used to come across this occasionally on vintage vehicles I used to work on. The solution with those was to engage a gear, and then start the engine with the clutch pedal depressed, the vehicle would lurch forward, then the friction plate would free off (sometimes with a bang). However, I wouldn't recommend this with something as large as a T-54 unless you have a lot of space in front and can guarantee the engine can be shut off if the clutch friction plate didn't disengage; you have a runaway vehicle and the results could be disastrous.

There should be a little cage that fits over the nut to prevent it from working loose. Each tab of the cage is held in place by the screws, which secure in the holes you mention. Should be no issue fitting a screw and copper washer to cure the leak, though it probably should be a blind hole.

Shown in the pictures on Marcus Glenns website

http://marcusglenn.com/cvrw-fox-fv-721/oil-filter-inc-housing-

Bump.

There are a number of differences between a CVRT spec 6BT engine and a truck spec one. You can use a civy spec 6BT in a CVRT, but you'd need to start with a CVRT one to swap all the parts from. The other way is easier as there are plenty of truck spec parts available to change them to whatever (non CVRT) specification you need.

We used a CVRT reservoir to extend from the master cylinder (beneath the cab floor) on our M55. We mounted it high up between the drivers seat and door. An added advantage is we can instantly tell if there is a leak (therefore brake problem) without lifting the floor trap and master cylinder cover.

I'm contemplating selling my Blazer as something else on my wish list has come up-

1983 Chevrolet Blazer, 6.2L V8 diesel, 400R transmission (overdrive) and achieves 27mpg on a run. She's not long had 2x new batteries (12V vehicle, was 24V but converted before I got it), alternator reconditioned, new headlamps, rear lamp lenses and good tyres all around. I'm in the throes of repainting it into NATO green, and the interior floor has just been painted. Chassis is in very good condition and is waxoiled. Recent service. Believed to have been used as a runaround on a USAAF base in the UK; has an interesting rear bumper which is significantly stronger than standard. New flexplate between engine and gearbox just installed.

I bought this as a "keeper" as I can do shows in it, tow with it and take the family about in it (3 point belts in the front) and its very civilised to drive.

£4600 ono

Located in Surrey

Trailer has been re-wired in our ownership - tyres are cracking on the sidewalls and body is fairly solid except where shown. Not been on the road for a while. £75 ono

Based near Gatwick

PM me or TootallMike (it's stored at his place)

I had the good fortune to be firing this good (old) lady the other day. Having been in traffic for a couple of weeks, she's taken on a good shine from the daily attention the brass-work has been getting from the crews.

The Welsh coal we use is from an opencast pit, and is very dusty. Some of the lumps also turn to dust during their journey to us in Sussex, and its not uncommon for the dust to build up and become compacted in the bottom of the bunkers which reduces the coal capacity. My driver decided that we should play the "see if you can break up and burn all of the crud and dust in the bunker" game, which we did with some success. We started the day with about 2/3 of a bunker of coal and solid crud, and we only took on an additional 1 wheelbarrow full of coal for our 2nd (of 2) trips. We ended the day with about 1 barrow full of slack left in the bunker! It was only a light load of 1 carriage and 2 trips, so not an arduous duty. In fact it was more of a challenge to make steam as the Chatham engines like a good draw on the fire to get it going, and we were only pootling along in 1st valve so there wasn't much draw on the fire!

Her sister locomotive (and WW1 ROD veteran) no 27 which is undergoing restoration at the moment is about to have a set of replacement cylinders cast using polystyrene patterns.

http://wainrightsfinestsecr27.blogspot.co.uk/

Rotating the cam 180 is the same as holding it and rotating the engine 360 degrees. Don't forget that the crank rotates twice for 1 rotation of the cam shaft.

After doing some head work on a CVRT, I made this mistake and set the cams to No 6 TDC and not No 1 TDC (which strangley enough look identical at the top of the engine!). Correcting this at the distributor was not an option so I had to reset the whole lot in situ as I'd already plumbed the engine in and didn't have time to pull it to correct it. We made the show that afternoon too

You can unbolt the lock assemblies from the cover to do that. The ones on mine are seized so they'll be coming off soon for some treatment.

You can actually use the end of a 3/8 ratchet extension for those locks. A suitable spanner stuck on the end helps.

After 7 I had learnt my lesson and went for something else!

Managed to get the wheels and drums off today and found that the wheel cylinders are totally free and still full of fluid. The cylinders actually look quite new and all the adjusters are moving freely. With any luck it was just the master cyl. which was kaput.

Fortunately your Ferret had been stored with the handbrake off, and I kept it that way in the few years I had it. Our other Ferret brakes were in quite a state!

We have used a Hollebone A frame and a couple of shackles in situations like this. Only good for short distance, slow speed recovery or winching though as there is a fair amount of slack in the connections. I have seen some people make bespoke packing pieces to fit in the welded loops to take a specific sized pin to use with the Hollebone.

If you do end up having to split a final drive to check the bearings, you have to drop the whole assembly out of the hull as some of it dismantles from the outside and the rest dis-assembles from the inside of it. I have dropped final drives out by myself using enough timber as packing to get them to floor level. Easier with 2 people though!

Vince

Mk II in Bovington according to on line searches. A bit of history on them here

http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/gb/AEC_Armoured_Car.php

There is one in Bovington, not sure which Mk.

We've used it twice - once on a MUTT restoration several years ago, and I just used it in our Ferret fuel tank which I had cut open, shot blasted and welded back up. The product seems to do what it says on the tin from the MUTT experience. Make sure that the prep is carried out correctly (you may need to let the tank dry out overnight following degreasing and prep solution.

Vince