Grasshopper

Some years ago at W&P I had the privilege of trundling around the arena in a late mark Cent while a Chieftain, Challenger 1 and Challenger 2 did the same. 4 (or 3 depending on your view) generations of British MBTs on the move at the same time.

I have remembered the ones we used - Solargizer. I really should get around to installing them on the other vehicles....

We bought a few (still as yet unfitted!) that are the same as the ones the US army use. They can be attached to 12V or 24V battery sets. We did fit one to the ERF (24V) and one to Mikes tractor and they seemed to work ok. Mike will know what make they are, they are still in his workshop!

You should also have a CVRT available (he says!) for lifting with 2x crane equipped trucks as we did a few years back. Easy to rig up the tackle before hand.

It's not uncommon for the rack to become sticky over time, it's worth squirting some engine oil over it while you have the covers off. I used to do this about every 3 months on Gardener engined buses that were in use every day. From memory ther is a little screw in the rack cover plates for this purpose.

Howard, we still have the old tank out of our WC having bought a repro from one of the Dutch dealers. We had to cut the top off it to diagnose a fault (the pickup pipe had a botched repair where it went through the side of the tank so would pick up air when the fuel level dropped a little or you went up a hill). PM Tootallmike as it is at his place and he goes up your way from time to time.

Vince

Out of the 4 CVRT we have had, all made this noise to some degree. Some just seem louder than others!

Vince

Bondaprimer is a very good product. Available on-line.

Congratulations to you and your family. I only have one child (a daughter) and thats enough for me!

Are you sure they were the correct ply rating? I saw a tyre company at W&P who had 2x different ply ratings of Petlas 9.00x16 in stock.

Vince

Have you checked and cleaned the earth path to the battery? It may be worth checking the resistance from the block to the battery.

Those into vintage busses have similar issues with Routemaster accumulators, very few people have the re-charge equipment.

The equipment for re-charging RM accumulators was a thing called an intensifier which took a compressor supply of around 120psi and boosted it up to 600psi at the other end via a pneumatic piston. They probably should have been Nitrogen filled, but any garage I ever visited or worked at used their standard air supply and had been doing so for many many years.

Regarding the original post, I have the same cabinet and had a similar problem. I found that by fitting a larger nozzle (a couple of different ones should have been provided with it) the blaster worked.

Vince

There was some nice stuff there in addition to a few deposits of swaying equine excreta.

That was Roy Bakers Autocar that we brought back; most mortals would have passed up on that vehicle as beyond saving, but that's Roy for you!

A friend of mine successfully repaired a jeep manifold by slowly heating it in his oven, welding it, then placing it back in the oven and reduced the heat slowly. Don't know if a Bedford one would fit in a domestic oven though!

Metromans 434 ended up in Ireland with an HMVF member.

There is a picture of me (somewhere) sitting in that WC with it lashed to the top of an Autocar chassis (now restored) with that sitting on our old ERF at a show in Kent. I remember taking the prop shaft of it at Bekes yard.

Vince

I didn't know that I had left the naughty step? :nut:

I did make back in scrap what the car cost me though, so not all bad...

If i'd have thought about it, I just got rid of that scrap Mondeo which you could have used....

Does it go with the 3rd leg?

There was a similar anomaly on our old ERF - if there was insufficient air in the system then the engine would not cut out when switched off from the ignition (being an air-operated shut off).

At least you can tell what some electric pumps are doing by the rate that they tick. This aids the diagnostic process before you even break into a fuel system.

With old vehicles, it is not uncommon for dry mechanical pumps to not create a vacuum with your finger over the end. With one of our trucks that sits for long periods, it won't lift fuel initially. I suck a bit of fuel up from the carb end of the hose, then it will run fine all day long and continue to do so until such time that it dries out again. This particular pump has been stripped a few times and the valves are in good condition having been replaced in recent times. Lack of use seems to be the cause.

Vince

Says the man with a HIAB in the back of his GMC! Why do things mandraulically when a mechanisation can ease the burden?

I used some scrap rubber from a scrapped train corridor connection.

Following much assembly and dis-assembly of the affected components, I have discovered the cause of the problem. The adjusters would both work independently with the shoe carrier return springs and "clicker" springs removed. When a load (fitting shoe carrier return return springs or the "clicker" springs) was imparted on the adjuster, the bottom one would work in one direction but slip in the other.

Removing the adjuster nut assembly did require some minor destruction of the component as it is secured through the back plate to the adjuster gears by peining (this is the damage seen on the end of the adjuster). Upon dis-assembly, I discovered that the machined flats that engage the adguster gear had rounded of which was the cause of the slip. This was probably due to over winding in one direction or the adjuster having seized at some point in the vehicles life.

Hopefully this information will be of use to any Ferret owner who suffers the same issue.

Sorry for the poor quality pics, the light was fading and my phone doesn't take particularly good pictures.

Vince