rustexpert

It is all very well saying let the experts do the job.

I work with steam boilers and as such would be considered an "expert"; is it because I haven't blown myself up yet or because I follow existing guidelines, use best practices that I know, use experience gained and work is inspected rigorously. Either way if I get blown up at work by a boiler it will be because someone wasn't expert enough.

It is now fact that expert tyre people generally just wont look at split/ring type wheels any more because they are risky and they don't consider themselves expert enough to do it any more. As vintage vehicle enthusiasts it is up to ourselves to do it and do it in expert fashion; work out a safe method and stick to safe method. What I am trying to do is improve my practices with respect to these split type wheels up to an "expert" standard. I haven't found any old guidelines from the days when these wheels were the only kind. Most guidance I have found is almost common sense and quite vague.

The video of the home made cage is ridiculous as such a construction is obviously completely inappropriate for the purpose, i.e. the object is to dissipate any explosive gas release whilst contain flying wheel components.

Does any one know where to find the specifications of tyre inflation cages suitable for locking ring type vintage commercial wheels?

A quick search only seems to throw up modern practice which doesn't really seem to cover the possibility of wheel components separating.

There must be a military design or specification for their construction.

I do several of these wheels and am intensely careful when inflating them. A proper cage would be good but there is no point having one which doesn't do the job when it comes to it or even has a fundamental design flaw. So a design or set of guidelines would be helpful.

Awesome. They don't build 'em like they used to.

It's not clear why the trailer is putting up so much resistance even if bellied; must be a step on the slipway.

You couldn't stretch a Scammell that easy.

I have a trailer which is czech army. It has Single Line airbrakes.

Could any body point me in the direction of some information on this system? Which I assume would be Eastern Bloc. standard for the '60s era.

Anyway as I remember from experiences with a Praga a while back; the service brakes on this worked in a pressure to apply the brakes fashion; that is non fail safe. They did fail regularly due to leaks various.

The trailer has a reservoir in the system; which would suggest brakes would come on when the line pressure in the single line dropped in a fail safe; railway brakes fashion.

However I would like to use the trailer with a tractor with Two Line trailer brakes. Any thoughts on how this might be achieved? This isn't my field really. I think I need to modify the existing to a Two Line set up or would one of the couplings on the tractor have the effect of a single line?

2013 entry form.pdf

I noticed some mention of the Rockingham/Belvoir merger.

A statement has been released to the effect that the dates are 1/2 June and venue Rockingham;

see the slightly defunct website for full statement.

I attach pdf. of entry form above.

Forest Lubricants in the Forest of Dean 01594 562357 are quite helpful; fully conversant with specialist and out of the usual lubricants. Small or large quantities not a problem.

It is also to be considered that such fuels suitable for vintage engines should not only be kept available but at no exorbitant premium cost. Which would inevitably happen; as did with leaded fuel which became so expensive that it extincted itself.

Hi,

i am working on a friends Reo.

It has been standing for several years. The fuel lift pump in the tank is completly gummed up with a soft varnishy type deposit that has come out of the fuel. Has anybody else had this problem which I assume wouldn't affect a vehicle in regular use.

Is there a solvent which will dissolve this stuff; or a readily available alternative pump.

Thanks Rustexpert

Has any one got any experience with the new style vehicle battery chargers that seem to have recently come on the market.

They have impressive claims regarding the rejuvenating qualities of their many varied charging cycles, etc, etc.

They also have quite hefty prices.

I can see the logic as my cars battery usually lasts without thought or attention "for ever" in all weathers but the heavy batteries that get occaisional use on my vintage vehicles always seem to be poor after a year despite inside storage and regular top up charging with a conventional trickle charger.

Has anybody got any thoughts?

I am looking for a spare wheel for my Taskers 6 Ton pole trailer.

They are 9 or 10 x20 tyre size eight stud three piece rims with "straight" centres i.e. no dish just a pressed rib around the circumference of the centre

On cleaning up they are stamped DUNLOP HO HA217. What does that stand for?

Anybody seen any? P.M. me if you can help.

I am helping someone out getting an Eager Beaver running again. It doesn't need anything major; just been standing for a few years.

We want to remove the short prop. shaft which goes between the gearbox and transfer box.

The sliding joint in the shaft doesn't appear to be badly rusty but the shaft wont close down in order to remove the ends off the studs. Do you have to drop the transfer box in order to get the shaft out? I have had quite a lot of pressure on it but thought I'd ask if there was any trick or tips any body could offer before we get the gas out and try some heat on the sliding collar. It seems a bit long winded to have to drop the tranfer box to get the shaft out but it has been mentioned that they weren't the most thoroughly thought out pieces of equipment the forces ever used. Any helpful comment would be greatly appreciated.

That's a nice pole trailer. I'm fairly sure I haven't seen or have any pictures of one just like that. Looks genuine enough from the pictures. Fabricated "bogies" would go with Unipower; haven't seen a Unipower pole trailer that big before, would be a 10 tonner.

The general arrangement is a copy of an earlier '30s Cranes design even with the oval holes in the bolsters but the Cranes was traditional riveted built up "bogies" with the bolsters wooden (with the oval holes) top edges flitched with steel. I would suggest that this similarity in design would point to a build date during the early '40s when copying design ideas wasn't such a problem. I hope this is of interest.

It is quite right that Unipower made/sold pole carriages; the I cant remember ever seeing any with marked hub caps. Usually anonymous as far as identity goes the odd fabricated construction of the "bogies" and square not round poles is the give away on examples I have come accross.

I think I am right in saying the timber tractors didn't have writing on the "hub caps"; which are the ends of the half shafts. Mine hasn't!

I suggest that the likely source would be a lorry non-driven third axle conversion if they made such a thing but don't dismiss that they are original.

Please post a photo of the trailer and I will compare it to the pictures and literature I have.

The R.A.F. did have at least a couple of Unipower timber tractors for estate maintenance purposes so there is a military connection.

If I remember correctly the WWI Holt 75 gun tractor which is seen at some events; I think the only one not a recent import from the states, a survivor from the British army; owes its' survival to the fact it was used to flatten cars in a scrap yard very early on. Before it was laid up and hidden it was brought out about five years ago.

regards Caterpillar D2 in military service.

I have a book "Diesel Taff" by Austin Hughes; a WWII plant operator who mentions his surprise to find he had to commission and operate a D2 in the middle east on a bridge construction job.

This is a good book if you like military stories about plant and low loader driving not front line action!

I have a D2 which has some parts on it which have some green on; but not parts which would interchange with a D4.

I have driven a D2 with a blade and they are only any good for the lightest of trail breaking jobs in the woods! A D4 of similar age is only a ton or so heavier and not that much more powerful but much more useful.

I hope this is interesting, thanks for reading.